Linc

I am experiencing a parasitic loss issue that is draining the battery. The dealer changed out my passenger air bag on the recall and gave me the car back with this issue. They spent days trying to solve the problem but then just gave it back and said "we didn't cause this issue". What I have found is that fuse 16 from the BJB has about a 1 amp draw on it when the car is off and you can hear a ringing sound from the TCM. Pulling the fuse kills the draw and silences the ringing sound. But does not entirely eleviate the parasitic loss. I have a couple of codes about network commutation and I think this is likely more of a cause than a symptom. Does anyone have a pinpoint test for this? I have to note after the dealer changed out the SJB about a year and a half ago I had this same probem but it resolved itself before I could find the problem. This leads me to believe the dash harness may be involved in the problem since both service items involve that main harness. Also the old threads about my sport shifter problem also point to this harness. Thanks for the help.

I have just experienced this on a 2010 Sport. I was told my sensors were bad, since they are about 9 years old, I said change them all at $3 each. Once that was done the problem got worse and I had additional issues and errors including my interior lights flashing. The dealer told me the computer was stuck in 'learning mode' and that I needed to change the SJB (Smart Junction Box). This is on order now, so we will see. Hope this helps you in some way.

So for my issue, the headlamps in the car when I got it were reproduction, not OEM. I bought 'better' and 'different' non OEM headlamps and have not had a problem in the last 100k miles. So knowing what I know now, I would make sure the headlamps are not cheap reproduction units.

So all my problems were/are connected to humidity and temperature. When it was cold, or wet the sport mode would not activate or function properly or at all. When warmer and dry everything works as expected. This revelation told me that I had a connection issue, so replacing that harness I had purchased previously became a necessity. Also using dialectic grease on every connection to keep out moisture. This appears to be the solution.

Just discovered that I have a trans fluid leak and it appears to be the cooler lines. I have to validate that but I was wondering if anyone else has done this yet? I want to know what the most direct method is to get at them and replace them.

Probably so. I guess when the new lights get here I will be starting with that situation.

I purchased my 2010 just over a year ago and have experienced this problem on my drivers side headlamp. The light was find for a long time, say close to 9 months and then it went out. I bought a bulb not thinking anything of the situation at all. But when I went to replace it, the old one came back on when I touched the wires, so I left it alone. At this point the light would go on and off randomly. So I went to change the bulb and found the actual plastic melted where the wiring contact the bulb. So I snipped off the end and grafted on a new plug. Several months later the problem returned and upon inspection I noticed the same melting starting to occur. So this time I put in the new bulb, thinking the bulb might be the problem. Now this week I am back to a melted socket and a light that will not stay on. It appears the headlamp on that side is a reproduction like the original poster of this thread. Since I wanted to upgrade I just bought some LED units and spoke to the manufacture about the bulbs and wiring. They told me they would honor a one year warranty without question, which I made them put in writing. When the arrive I will install them and see if things get better. I did check my bulbs based on this thread and did see that they were NOT the 80 or 100 watt units.

Well this post is from a month ago, how did it go?

So this thread is now ancient, so I wondered if you can give us any updates on your car themason?

Is this forum dead?

I didn't do a total removal of mine. I replaced the seals,added a drain, and did a flush and refill of the fluids. There are plenty of threads out on the net for a total removal. Just search for Ford PTU removal or something of that nature. The repairs required a few key tools to get it done and they were relatively inexpensive on ebay. The deflector removal tool was the one I bought twice, the first tool that was listed for this process was junk and would not work. Also when it comes to getting parts, if you have the old style deflector you will have to source that one separably as it no longer comes in the rebuild kit. Or at least my parts people could not find it in one.

Indeed !

The only good answer to your question is to take it out and take it apart. A much larger job, but at least you would know that it was good. And if you go that far you might as well perform a total rebuild on it once you determine how much wear is present. My "guess" is that you would know if it was toast. Sorry that I cannot give you the magic bullet.

Well it certainly sounds like you have the infamous PTU leak. The job is tough, but doable and it has probably been empty for a while. Watch this video and you will see the basics of how to fix it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLFFcVHptxs I did mine in about 2 hours and my car only had 67k on it. If you are going to do this, you might also consider adding a drain plug to it because they come from the factory with one unless the car is destined for the Middle East or something like that. The following link will show you the steps to add the PTU drain. http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1704.0 Good Luck with it. Try not to get to frustrated, it's just a car and they all need fixing.

I need to spend some time detailing my engine bay. Living on a dirt road sucks for keeping cars clean, but it is now installed and looks pretty sweet.

Considering the miles on his vehicle and the experience I and other have had, his fluid is likely caked up inside the PTU. Might want to consider adding the drain plug and flushing it out a few times to get that gunk out. Just a thought, but if it didn't leak out, then it is still in there, just maybe no longer a fluid.

Finally finished the modifications to my engine cover. Here is the final look.

I have been trying to find time to finish my engine cover and today I finally got the chance to get this thing done. I formed the metal panel from 18 gauge stainless sheet and used 1/4-20 stainless button heads to attach it. I really wanted to put a beaded edge on the stainless but I just didn't have the skills or tools for that. I covered the stainless in a couple of coats of high temp clear to help it last longer and stay looking nice. Then I put a new sport badge under hot water for a few minutes and bent the curve out of it. After it cooled I mounted it on the stainless. It isn't exactly what I envisioned, but really close and I am happy with it. I need to find a stainless or aluminum oil fill cap that doesn't have someones name on it.

So I still have not fixed the car, but I have a few new pieces of information. I purchased a new shifter assembly for the PCBA but have not installed it and don't believe I really need it. I bought a new battery and installed it because this problem killed mine. I also bought a new battery cable because mine was missing the red cover and I am obsessive like that. I have not put that on yet either, as other things are going on. But what is interesting is that the battery cable includes the entire engine harness, so a plus there. But the real interesting thing is that suddenly the last to day, while driving the car will switch to sport mode on its own regardless of shifter position. And changing the shifter position does not alter that state. The only thing that fixes it is shutting the car down and restarting. I either have a serious wiring problem or the Trans Control Module is defective. I think at least.

Well at this point I think your car might be a tad more important. I hope they can repair all the damage to your satisfaction and that you get back to enjoying it. Very sorry for you, I know how much it sucks to have someone else hit your vehicle and leave you with the mess. I submit my truck as my personal example. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/someone-tagged-my-truck-morning-277798/ I was nearly stopped on the freeway and got hit by a guy doing nearly 60. Good news for me was that my only witness was a police officer stopped on the side of the freeway right next to me. So, for my car. I think that I need to solve another problem first and I believe they are related and it could be the root cause of my issue. I suddenly discovered that my TCM (may also be the PCM) is sometimes humming when I shut off my car. This if left unattended will bleed my battery completely dry. What I know is that if I just turn on the key, most times it will start humming. If I turn off the key it will continue to hum. If I unplugged the TCM/PCM with the ignition off it will stop humming. When I plug it back in, it was stay quiet and not bleed down my battery. If the key is in the ignition and on, then when I unplug it the humming stops, but when plugged back in the humming continues. From a diagnostic standpoint I thought maybe there was a stuck relay or something so I just randomly pulled all the relays to see if the humming would stop but it didn't. I also have attempted unplugging the PCBA as well as the shifter assembly and it continues to hum. All these unplugging events are performed with the ignition off but the humming going. I feel that if I figure out the source maybe things will start working again. I am going to look at all the grounds in hope of finding a loose one but I don't expect that to be the cause or solution. What I need s a full schematic of either the entire car, or the subsystem of the powertrain. Anyway, that is where I am today. Hope your day is better.

So my testing at lunch showed that the pin 11 to ground was clean with full continuity and on the Ohms it was .09 Then I disconnected the PCBA connector and tested the pin 9 voltage was zero and the pin 10 voltage was 13.65

So I started the car and put on the parking brake. I then shifted to drive and then over to manual, no S but same thing. While in this position I measured the voltage between ground and Pin 9 on the C3233 plug. The voltage held between 13.65 - 13.70 for the period of 30 seconds. I then pulled the shifter to the + position and the voltage made no change. I held it there for about 30 seconds and again, no change. The second test was was between ground and pin 10 on the C3233 plug. The voltage held between 14.40 - 14.43 for the a period of 30 seconds. I then moved the shifter to the - position and held it there for 30 seconds. There was no noticeable change in voltage. Now I mentioned before that there is a humming noise coming from the PCM. It isn't always there, but it is right now. I have found that if the key is left on and I unplug the PCM the humming stops. When I plug the PCM back in the humming returns. Now if the key is off (key out of the ignition) the humming continues. When I unplug the PCM the humming stops. However, unlike the previous test, when I plug it back in the humming does not return until I turn the car back on again. Over the weekend I didn't drive the car for a few days and the battery went dead. I mention this because it seems like your "stuck" idea has some merit and maybe that humming is the PCM saying it has conflicting signals. Also there is an occasional P0819 ODB trouble code set. This always happens when I am playing with the wiring. Usually the safety lock out will not function when this happens as well. Pushing the wiring into the plug usually solves this. Thanks again