eGuru
-
Posts
1,469 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
22
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by eGuru
-
Check your user guide to see if what you have seems to be the "Audiophile" system which has 2 6x9 speakers under the rear windscreen. Ford referenced those speakers as subwoofers. You could feed your sub from those wires if it has high level inputs of its own. Your sub should then turn on/off according to presence/absence of audio signal without needing a LOC. For best results however, I suggest you tap into the full range front or rear speaker wires.
-
So basically, the compressor clutch is not being engaged probably due to a defective HVAC controller (which you can buy on eBay very cheap) or the evap temp sensor is bad (and that is a pain to replace).
-
What does the FDIM display after the dealer replaced the APIM?
-
SE Hybrid key fob - change to remote start?
eGuru replied to LouLou's topic in Alarms, Keyless Entry, Locks & Remote Start
I am not familiar with the 2019 Fusion but I think this should be investigated with the dealer before buying anything. The FordPass works using a cellular modem using signaling that is not compatible with the signaling used by the fobs. Typically, the standard fobs send their limited range signal to the BCM/GEM while remote starts have additional hardware and antenna. -
Which audio system do you have in your 2008 SEL? If you have readily accessible speaker wires in the trunk are those speakers mounted under the rear windscreen? If so, those are subwoofer speakers and you don't need a LOC to power your sub.
-
You will need to match the diameter to accommodate the geometry of the caliper and its mount. Drilled and slotted rotors are not a great option for a daily driver. Motorcraft rotors and pads would be a more than adequate and reliable choice.
-
Did you perform your current measurement after some period of not touching controls/doors/etc.? It takes about 10 minutes of inactivity for the systems to go to sleep.
-
Since you mentioned "blower motor resistor" instead of "blower motor speed control", I take it that you have the manual HVAC controller instead of the automatic dual zone system. Measure between the blower YE-GN wire and ground - you should see about 12V. Measure between the blower GY wire to ground - with the switch in the highest position you should be reading 0V.
-
If the HVAC controller buttons don't illuminate, it may just be a fuse in the SJB. Do you have a DMM to verify if voltage is present at the blower motor terminals?
-
An additional possibility is the wiper control module since headlights come on when wipers are turned on.
-
For less than $100 you can obtain a new throttle body. It is an easy DIY replacement. While it may not totally cure your hesitation problem, it would eliminate the ETB as a cause. Unfortunately a bad ETB often doesn't generate a DTC or CEL so it is sometimes hard to diagnose it as a cause. Considering that the ETB costs less than the cost of even an hour of diagnostic labour, it is probably wise to just replace it.
-
Did you check for a corroded connector and chafed cable as previously suggested? You didn't respond to my previous post.
-
What readings do you get for the evap temp and ambient temp?
-
Car won't start and gear shift indicators off
eGuru replied to Nana twista's topic in General Powertrain Discussion
Did you check all the same things that were suggested to the OP of this thread? What were the results? -
Clear the DTC's and see if they return.
-
The parking lamp relay is non-serviceable, so I would look for a short first. I would suspect that the issue is with the license plate lamps. They corrode readily.
-
If you read the pdf, it tells you that the angle sensor is located inside the EPAS itself.
-
AFAIK you will need to replace the the pillar with a new one as the mounting "clips" will be damaged in the removal process. Excellent that you want to install your wiring with maximum safety in mind - behind the airbag. In reality, this is usually done by just stuffing the cable behind the pillar.
-
Backup camera works partime please help!
eGuru replied to rowleja's topic in Advanced Driver Assistance Technologies
I would suspect that it is a component in the camera that is defective. Before replacing it, you should verify that the camera connector in the trunk is receiving 12V when the car is shifted to reverse - obviously you will need a helper to perform this test safely. -
I would definitely rid myself of the K&N "cold" air intake as it is no better than the stock Ford unit - except that you might like the sound/noise that it produces. If you can sell it for a good price you can use the funds to trade-up the Goodyears to decent performance tires.
-
Post any fault codes that your technician finds when he scans your vehicle. When the message occurs are you parked on a slope and/or the wheels turned in a particular direction?
-
So the gauge is working fine but the distance to empty calculation is not what you expected. See what mpg value the car has calculated. then reset it and then see what it reads for mpg and DTE after a few days of driving.
-
I don't see where you tell us about the engine size in your 2010. You might find these pinpoint tests useful even if they are for 2012MY 3.0L p1277 12 fusion.pdf
-
Is the battery less than 3 years old? A marginal battery may cause this issue since you state that the fault is only occurring at startup.
-
Thanks for the clarification. Yes those readings could prevent the compressor from turning on. So either the sensor is bad or the HVAC controller is not converting the resistance value correctly. Usually when the sensor itself goes bad, the controller reports some large negative value. pull the black connector off the the HVAC controller and measure the resistance from pin 6 (might be a VT-BN wire) to ground.