Grey

Dealerships have access to the Ford intranet for scheduling and availability information. We can't get to it. They can check their Dealer News Bulletin for ordering and build information. Other sites give them status information on specific vehicles. Ask if they have a DORA for your vehicle yet, and if your unit can be scheduled. Sounds like you are not getting the full information.

November for Fusion, Escape and Flex Nav. units. Trucks TBD. Ask your sales person to check it for you. Things can change.

Last I heard was that the Job 1 for Nav was November. Better ask your sales person to check the dealer news bulletin.

So, the lesson here is use a full synthetic if you intend to drain the oil and run the engine dry. If you intend to maintain the engine at the recommended intervals, you can't beat the performance and value of the Motorcraft 5w20.

Found the brightness setting, thanks. Nothinbg on the angle adjustment however. Perhaps if I pull down the decklid liner, I can see if there is any adjustment there. Annoying to see 1/3 of the secreen as the top of the license plate.

My rear camera display takes too long to load up on the screen. I've backed out of my garage before the welcome screens- Sony advertisment, etc. go away. Make it immediate when I go into reverse. My camera now points down lower than it did when the vehicle was new. Does trunk slamming adjust the angle? I now have 1/3 screen of the license plate. Can this be adjusted back/higher. Give vehicles with rear camera brighter back-up lights. We want to see rearward on the display at night also. I can't find replacement bulbs that will do a reasonable job.

I'll ask if there is a TSB on this. Now, how to code it into OASIS????

My best fuel economy, 54.4 MPG came from 110 miles trip with speed control set at 45 MPH (county roads with 45 MPH speed limit). Electric mode about 1/3 of the time.

I tried to get more info on this - what I have been told is that the "select" (smaller rural) dealers can freeze incentives. I don't think contact dealers can.

X-Plan purchases require the dealership to give you all the applicable incentives (including any dealer cash) that are listed for your vin. These are determined by looking at a VinCent report for the vehicle you are considering. When a dealership says they will sell lower than X-Plan, usually they are talking about the x-plan price on the invoice (not the real bottom line price after incentives) Incentives are zip code and vin specific. You can't rely on someone elses deal to judge yours. But a bunch of us would be very surprised if you found a better deal anywhere than x-plan..

Glad they found the problem. Enjoy the car.

Good intentions don't protect your warranty. Receipts and notes in a maintenance book won't have much meaning if you have a lubrication related problem. Using improper maintenance products, failure to fill the crankcase correctly, leaks from double gasketing, etc. are the usual causes of lubrication related failures. They can happen anywhere, but they are not Ford's responsibility. If a Ford/Lincoln dealership (or Ford Fast Lane) does your maintenance and there is a problem, chances are it will get fixed. If the corner luber or you make the mistake, chances are you will pay for the fix. Do not operate under the assumption that if you have receipts (from other than a Ford service operation) that you hae protected your Ford warranty. Lack of lubrication problems, for whatever reason, will usually be on someone other than Ford. Ask your corner lube shop if they will provide a warranty for your engine --read the fine print! The risks are low, but the rare occurence is expensive.

If you have a lubrication caused engine problem, 99% of the time it will be your responsibility, regardless of the products used. Receipts used to be good evidence that you attempted to maintain your vehicle if there was a problem. You likely won't get help now if you have a lubrication (or cooling system) caused issue. I collect the coupons, go to service specials on dealer's web sites, etc. and have the dealership do my maintenance. That way if there is a problem (insuffecient oil, wrong products used, leaks from double gasketing, etc.) I can expect Ford or the dealership to make it right. If you or the corner luber mess up, don't expect Ford to cover your mistake. I rarely pay over $20 for an oil/filter change or $40 with tire rotation. I got 3 coupons from Groupon for oil cnange and tire rotation for $18 at one of my local Foprd dealerships. Just keep your eyes open for the deals.

The Atlanta dealerships typically limit the amount you can put on a vehicle purchase on a credit card to around $2,000. Why would you expect them to pay the credit card fee and not pass it on to you over that amount? A cost of doing business or an expense generated by the purchaser? I wish every retailer gave a discount for cash versus credit cards. If I could save 10 cents a gallon for gas, that would be significant over a year. My Target Red card saves me 5% at our local store so you know there is a savings over a regular credit card. Seems like they should give something for cash purchases also.

You have lots of days to decide and to comparison price the ESP plans. After 1 year or 12,000 miles, the cost goes up $100 to the dealership, but you can purchase an ESP plan as long as you are in the basic warranty period. Don't be pressured into buying until you look at the online sellers. Search Ford ESP Plan and decide your coverage needed and shop around. Your dealership should match any deal you find on the internet - if not - don't buy it from them. Any Ford or Lincoln dealershop can sell you a policy. Some Service Departments also sell them (at little mark-up) because they love their customers to have them.

Welcome. we did the same in 2009 and have enjoyed the FFH every day since.

I pulled onto a two lane to one lane entrance ramp and had to floor it to merge. Same smoke. I believe it was accumulated moisture/ash in the exhaust system suddenly heated and blown out of the tailpipe. Perhaps we should run it up to highway speed once in a while - or as we used to say, blow the cobs out of it. (Cobwebs) My take is, No harm - No foul.

I won't say there are not "better" maintenance products for specific applications, but I can say that the Ford Engineers have specified oils and filters that exceed the needs of the engine for 99% of us, I will use the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend and filters for my vehicles. If I lived in the far North, I would use the full synthetic Motorcraft oil. If I drove on dirt roads frequently, I would change the oil and filters more often. For us, the 6 month maintenance cycle works best - about 5,000 miles. This strategy represents the best care and best value for most of us. Full out racing and heavy trailer towing might represent situations where other spec. oils could be better. Don't take the factory fill out before 3,000 miles. On occasion, during the first 1,000 miles, let the vehicle coast down from highway speed (off the gas) to encourage the rings to seat good.

Most emgine wear occurs at start-up. You want a low viscosity oil to ensure oil flow. A full synthetic thickens slightly less at below freezing temperatures than a synthetic blend. Ford recommends their Full Synthetic Motorcraft 5w20 for Northern Canada and Alaska (or heated garages and engine block heaters.) Our engines are designed to operate at 100 degrees C, and at operating temps we need an oil with a cSt value of 8.6 to 9.4. Really makes little difference if the oil is full synthetic or synthetic blend at operating temperatures. Most 0w20 or 5w20 oils will fall in that range. The only time an Xw30 weight oil would be called for is when operating temperatures will consistantly be above 120 degrees C (heavy trailer towing or high speed racing).. Any of those oils will not give adequate start-up protection, however.

In a former life I was an Oil Product Manager and I use Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend and change it every 5,000 miles or 6 months, along with a new Motorcraft filter. That will give you better engine protection than a full synthetic with 10,000 mile changes. and may even cost less. With the Ford dealer's internet coupons, I spend between $15 to $20 per maintenance interval. If I lived in a climate that had below freezing temps, over half the year, I would use the Motorcraft Full Synthetic 5W20. Do not change to a full synthetic before 3,000 miles, if you decide to go that way..

Dealerships are given an allocation by month by line for vehicle orders. If the dealership has current allocation, the order should go into the scheduling system within a week or 10 days, The scheduling system is updated on Thur. Evenings. If your ofder is sitting in limbo. awaiting allocation, there can still be more delays, if they place a subsequent order with a higher priority. Ford will schedule it ahead of yours even though you have an earlier date. If you ordered commodities that are in a controlled situation (oversized wheels comes to mind), the order will wait until the commodity is available. Having said all that - Your dealership knows what their allocation is, what commodities will slow down an order, if they submitted a later order with a higher priority, etc. Best to ask them where you stand in the mix.

Generally, retail orders are price protected at the level in place at the time of Ford acceptance of the order. Your DORA should show the price level.

Got to love the fuel economy, especially in the warmer months. Lots of fun technology to keep you entertained. Anytime you can set the speed control for 45MPH you will see the real savings. I did 54.4 MPG over 110 miles on county roads. (Speed limit was 45.)

MKZ's have memory seats but the cost to retrofit a Fusion would be about the same as trading for a MKZ. A lot more involved than the switch.

Did you get a copy of the DORA? That will tell you when the order was accepted by Ford for scheduling. 8-10 weeks estimates start then. Ford updates the scheduling system on Thur. evenings, so check with your dealership on Fridays for any updates. The DORA will give you the order number, body code and priority placed on the order by the dealership. That information may help your salesperson identify your vehicle in the system. See some of the older posts on the process so you will understand the questions to ask.