Grey

I would change the oil and filter more frequently if you want to ensure proper lubrication with the synthetic blend Motorcraft oil. Unless you are in an extremely cold environment, there is little value in full-synthetic oil.

One thing I haven't seen discussed is the cooldown procedure before cutting off the engine after high temperature runs. Based on my experience with turbocharged engines years ago, you should allow the engine to cool down after very hot operation to prevent the turbocharger from overheating the oil and caking residue on the turbocharger mating surfaces. Just a minute or so cooldown will help prevent premature turbocharger failure. Oil not only provides lubrication, but helps control engine temperature.

I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid with Nav and a 2013 Fusion Hybrid with Nav.

The upgrade to the software for the 2013 works well and I am enjoying the new features in the info center.

Now, how about an upgrade for the older vehicles? The most annoying thing about the 2010 is that the rear camera does not come on until I am out of the parking space or garage and halfway down the road. The 2013 is much faster to display the back up view.

I'm sure some of the features from the late model upgrade could also be integrated into a "Fix" for the rear camera problem.

A.K. Seems like we did. My buddy and I bought a convenience store close to the Clay County line and have it leased out. So I get to go over often.

Take care my friend.

Keith. Glad to see more ATL based Hybrid owners on the forum. I am in Roswell and have had Fusion Hybrids since 2009. I am very pleased with the fuel economy of both vehicles. Overall we are getting high 30's to low 40's. Most of our trips are short (1 to 5 miles) so the gas engine is running more often than drivers that have longer commutes at moderate speeds. When you use heat or AC and when the engine warms up for emissions requirements you will be using the gas engine more often. We try to recapture energy by lightly braking going down the hills in our neighborhood (you are not really riding the brakes, just engaging the generator to recharge the hybrid battery.) I drove over to Wedowee Al. on Ga. Hwy 5 at 45 miles per hour in the 2010 Fusion and got 54.4 MPG over 210 miles (speed limit 45 most of the way.) I have gotten just over 50 MPG in the 2013 Fusion at highway speeds, so I know the 47 MPG is possible.

I have saved over $3,000 in fuel cost versus the Ford Edge I traded in for the 2010, so doubly happy about that.

10.9 Miles per dollar (at 4230 miles).

Leasing is particularly advantageous when the residual values of the vehicle is high, there are good incentives on the one you want or you want a new vehicle every 3 years or so. If, after the term of the lease you decide you no longer want the vehicle, you can walk away from it. If it is worth less than the preset residual value, no loss to you. If you bought it and it was worth less than what you owed when you wanted to trade, you loose the difference. Often there are special incentives for leases through Ford Motor Credit.

When they were closing out the Mariner Mercurys, we leased two of them with $2,000 trades for under $200 a month for 27 months. One we bought off lease for a family member, and the other we walked away from. The residual value is set on MSRP so if you get incentives, rebates, negotiate a better price, all those savings reduce your lease payments for the lease term. It is like getting them up front instead of over the length of a purchased car loan. $2,400 svings on a two years lease is $100 less per month. $2,400 savings on a 60 month car loan is $40 less per month.

75 miles this morning with 5 people in the Fusion Hybrid 2013. Over 50% highway at 65 mph. 45.2 mpg. I question the Energi would have done much better.

Just completed a 205 mile trip in heavy Atlanta traffic, 50% county roads at 55 MPH and 30% highway speeds at 70 MPH. My 2013 Fusion Hybrid has 1,700 miles on it, so barely broken in.

I got 45.2 MPG.

It would have been much higher if I had used more 55 MPH roads. I was able to get 54.4 MPG on our 2010 Fusion Hybrid using county roads on a similar trip. So I believe the 47 MPG in the 2013 is entirely possible. I did use brake regen going down hills to keep the battery topped off.

The best way to determine if an issue is covered by a TSB or is warrantable, is to have your service advisor run an OASIS report on your VIN and code it to the concern you experience.

If you are not having a concern, but heard about a TSB, you can ask them to review the particulars of the TSB with you. The presence of a TSB does not create an obligation to repair something.

Many TSBs cover parts supercedence, diagnostic routine changes, parts service details, etc. Some may extend the warranty coverage on a repair. You won't know the particulars until someone reviews the TSB details.

A lot of factors go into Ford accepting an order for scheduling. Does the dealership have allocation? What priority did the dealership put on the order? Has the dealership placed later orders in the system with a higher priority? Does the order inculde commodities that are on hold/controlled/short supply?

They are going to make it sound like Ford controls all of the processes, but in fact the dealership has the biggest influence on scheduling. They know their allocation, the order priority, etc. and any controlled items (from their dealer news bulletin). Production scheduling is updated on Thur. evenings, so check with your dealership on Fridays for any status changes.

Looks like we bought the same car. Grey SE Hybrid, Nav, roof, Tech, etc. (+ mats, 18" wheels). Would have waited for the Titanium, but didn't know how long it would take to get one in. Still on the first tank of fuel, so no feel for fuel economy yet. Our 2010 Fusion Hybrid got much better fuel economy once it had about 4,000 miles on it, but weather has a bigger impact for us. The ICE runs a lot more when it is cold and the heater demand is high.

I will try for 60+ MPG in the spring.

Ford updates their scheduling system on Thur. evenings. Call your salesperson on Fridays and ask for the latest status. It will help if you have your body style and dealer order number (saves time looking it up.)

Your 2010 FFH may be out of warranty time wise. Mine has just about 25,000 miles but is 3 1/2 years old. An OASIS report, run by your service advisor, will give you the in-service date. You might ask them to run a warranty history as part of the report, since you bought it used.

Big Jim - great explanation. Thanks for being on the Forum.

No, but it makes sense as a security vehicle.

The main factors influencing the delivery time are the dealership's allocation, commodity availability and priority (set by the dealership). If the dealership has already ordered their allotment for the next several weeks, you wait to start the clock. If you order options that are on hold/short supply, you wait. If the dealership orders vehicles after your order with a higher priority, they get built before you (10 is higherst dealership priority and 99 is lowest.) Some dealerships order everything as 20 priority and it is first come, first built.

Questions to ask when ordering:

Do you have current allocation?

Are any of my options on hold/short supply?

Will you order later units with a higher priority than my vehicle?

The reason to vary your speed is that fresh gears do better with a wide initial wear pattern (to avoid gear whine.)

I would occasionally let the car slow down from highway speed (off the accelerator) in the first 500 miles to assist in seating the piston rings. Leave the factory fill oil in the engine until the first regularally scheduled oil change (3,000 miles or longer.)

I feel like the European tank size was acceptable to the American dealers and customers since the fuel economy was improved that much (helped in part by the reduction of 18+ pounds of fuel.)

If you operate your vehicle for months at a time in sub zero temperatures, go to a 0W20 oil. Otherwise, stick with the Motorcraft 5W20 and Motorcraft filters. If you want to be extra considerate to your engine, change at 5-7,500 mile intervals instead of the 10,000 mile schedule.

The Ford engineers designed the specification for the Fusion filter. It provides the proper balance of strength, flow and filtering capability. For service, Ford brands these filters as Motorcraft. They produce hundred of thousands of them for production and for service. Because of the volume, they can justify using the highest quality components without significantly increasing the price.

Other aftermarket filter suppliers may not use the same high quality components, or might compromise size, filter media, bypass valves, etc. to fit a variety of vehicles regardless of factory specification. Remember, for them, just like with oils, it only takes one pass on the specification tests to say the design is OK, even if they had 10 previous failures with the same product.

The Motorcraft filters and oil products must pass the specification tests every try. Too much at stake to compromise here. I usually have my service work done at the Ford dealership, but when I do it myself, I get Motorcraft oil and filters at Walmart.

I am inclined to believe that this is more of an oil related issue than the filter. You can't be sure what weight or spec oil the corner luber put in your vehicle. Also, putting the additive in on top of "whatever" oil was likely not a good idea. See if installing Motorcraft 5W20 and filter changes the situation. Might be a combination of factors involved.

So iam on target for a 4,000 change soon then maybe to Syn/Blend or Full Synthetic

The Ford specification would require a synthetic blend or full synthetic, 5W20 or 0W20. Motorcraft offers a synthetic blend 5W20 or full synthetic 5W20 as I recall. The specification is the more important thing, not how you get there.

Ford has a slightly different specification for factory fill oil than for the service oils. I presume because it helps break-in the engine. I would leave it in for the first 3-4,000 miles, just to ensure the rings have seated correctly. Unintended consequences of early switch to full synthetic might be excessive oil consumption. spark plug fouling, loss of compression, etc.

Hi Whitey, if you go to KBB.com ( Kelly Blue Book ) you will find a section whats my currant car worth, that should give you a good idea on its value.

 

George

Or

NADA.com

Edmunds.com

Hi all, I am planning to trade in my 2001 Ford Focus for a 2010 fusion. I found one that I like, but it doesn't appear that the dealer has run a carfax report on it. Does anyone have a carfax account and would be willing to run a report for me? The VIN is 3FAHP0HA7AR191094. Let me know!

Ask your local Ford dealership service department to run an OASIS report for you including warranty history. That will tell you a lot about the vehicle and any mechanical problems it may have had.