DuratorqSupporter

Just wanted to throw in that in inclement weather (raining, snowing, etc) putting more light out may actually reduce visibility since you will get more glare. This is why they tell you not to use your brights in a snow storm or if it is raining heavily. Don't get me wrong I totally want to know what options are out there for HIDs or LEDs and which one works better with the stock projector in the 2013+ models but don't think that getting more light will increase your visibility in every scenario.

I put Monroe quick struts on my 99 Taurus and they worked like a charm, no noises although they didn't necessarily improve the ride quality... then again in the 90's Ford was tuning suspension in the midsize category more for "floating on a cloud" feel rather than "driving a car" feel.

I assumed that 2013+ would all have the same brake pads etc... I forgot about the Lincoln LS those were some cool cars :happy feet:

Wowie, 73 views and zero replies.... apparently we lack enthusiasts on this forum. Something I'll work on changing.

Sounds like an electrical demon to me, did you check your carfax before buying? Could be that your car had been involved in a flooding incident or something similar.

Not a fresh wash, you can plainly tell the difference between a clean tire and a tire that has been "shined" honestly I don't understand the appeal myself. Tires, like shoes are going to get dirty, so investing in keeping them shiney is a waste of money to me. At least on daily drivers, if you have a show car or a weekend warrior that you like to keep looking nice, sure I can understand why you would use tire shine even if I wouldn't in the same application.

Well, just from my experience as a mechanic I would assume that it is likely that Ford has similar defects on both of the axles shafts, as they were likely cast using the same procedures. Then again I may just be a pessimist.

Yeah we were actually trained by Michelin, or at least that is where the bulk of our training came from so it doesn't surprise me that our warranties reflected what Michelin has to say. I do stand by their products though, have never owned a nicer set of tires and it wasn't until I bought a set of Michelins that I realize how big a difference tires can make.

Wow I had no idea the majority of people were springing for the base engine of the Fusion like I did....

Sounds like a bogging engine to me, the engine is in too high a gear to really keep acceleration going but the TCM wants the engine at as low of an rpm as possible for fuel economy purposes. If there was a baffle or something loose, it wouldn't go away at a higher rpm, and if the resonance argument was correct you would be able to replicate this scenario every time the engine was turning 1500 rpm, not just when you put the engine under load at this rpm. I don't think anything is wrong, especially since I noticed it in my 2016 Fusion S on my 4th or 5th drive after the purchase.

Are you going to be doing the work yourself? Because you could always perform the inspection of the parts, since you'll already have it apart. Even if you aren't it might be a good idea to order all of the parts and have the mechanic inspect everything before deciding whether or not to replace it, since he is going to be in there anyways. The cost difference will be negligible between having the mechanic replace the seal vs the seal and the axle stub. At most a difference of a half hour of labor and the cost of the part.

What did you break out feeler gauges? There will be things that vary from car to car, and for all you know the hood could be straight, but your headlights may be cocked a little. When you say something isn't lined up its always relative to something else... so for you to say that the hoods don't look like they are aligned correctly could be asinine... it might be the fenders... or the grill. Either way, the interior is what you will be seeing the most of.

Honestly I don't know that the upholstery is easy to come off, and I assume you would need to have a background in stitching... you might be able to find a shop that would do it but that again would be a roll of the dice.

Too lazy to search eh? Here thats all the grief I will give you about it, but I'm sure a mod will yell at you

Due to my history in the tire world, and the fact that I see a lot of people on here posting about it, I thought that this would be a good place for a little bit of an FYI... that is for those who care. Using Tire Shine, or whatever you want to call it (black tire, black tire spray, etc) on your tires will void your warranty and this is due to the fact that several brands of tire shine contain a chemical that will accelerate the breakdown of your tires. This leads to cracking on the sidewall that is usually associated with dry rotting, but it has to do with the UV exposure, that in conjunction with the chemical compound in these tire shines, accelerates the break down of the rubber. The rule of thumb at our shop was that if the tires were shiney, we notated it on the paper work and any warranty remaining on the tires was voided. This wasn't a ma and pa shop either. Just thought you might want to be aware, that making your tires shiney may put your warranties or even your tires at risk.

You'll want to swap coolant and engine oil as well.... how many miles are on the car? It isn't normal for timing chains to need replacement very often. Honestly, if you put fresh fuel into the tank it will do wonders to clean up any deposits (thank the oil companies for all those additives) swap the brake rotors and put fresh oil, and coolant into it that would solve most of the problems. the battery may need a charge, but lets not forget that 18 months isn't too terribly long a span to leave a car sitting. My last car sat for 3 years and I changed oil and coolant and it ran like a top for a long time after. Don't, I repeat DO NOT, buy that fuel injector cleaner stuff, its a gimmick. If you really want to do this kosher, here is what I would do: Engine Oil, Trans Fluid, Power Steering Fluid if appliable (idk when they made the switch to electronic power steering), brake fluid, and coolant. Swap your rotors out for new ones, and drain the old fuel out of the tank and top it off with fresh stuff. Charge the battery and take it out for an hour or two driving very gingerly at first and give it at least one WOT acceleration towards the end of the drive. I doubt 18 months is going to put flat spots in tires that would make it terribly uncomfortable to drive, although that depends because if the car has been sitting outside the tires may be dry rotting thanks to UV exposure. It'd be a rough first start but after you have it operating for a couple hours you may want to drain and refill the engine oil again. Usually the timing chains take many hundreds of thousands of miles to wear, so if I were you, I would definitely get a second opinion on it from shop with a good reputation. Chains are not at all like belts where they simply shred after 100k miles, they CAN stretch a bit but remember its metal. Usually you'll hear it rattling from becoming too loose if it is in serious need of replacement. Actually in my experience with Mercedes Benz Sprinters, their timing chains were still in good shape after 300k miles, you just have to replace the tensioners because they would blow a seal and not maintain engine oil pressure overnight, so you would start them up listen to the rattle for 15 seconds and then it would stop because oil pressure would build back up in the tensioner... then agian I don't think FoMoCo uses tensioners in this design...

4500 miles on my odometer and I'm sitting in the low 20's (last reading I saw while I was getting out of my car was 19.7 mpg AVG) in a 60/40 city highway cycle. I'm not exactly easy on the throttle (I mean I'm still breaking her in so I'm not WOT accelerating either) but I drive much the same way as I drove my old 99 Taurus with a 3.0 v6 (previous car) and I have to say that the fuel economy in this car is not impressive unless I'm on the highway. Through the city my 99 Taurus got reliably better fuel economy, surprisingly enough. Hoping that these numbers will creep up with the odometer reading. Sure, but not everyone on the road drives this way, makes it very frustrating on the highway especially when the lanes are pretty packed but it isn't stop and go. If your in the far right lane, sure, go for it. If you are in the middle lane or left lane and passing on downhills only to be passed on uphills then I'd call you an a-hole.

I was clarifying for op.

Small clarification, a twin scroll turbocharger =/= twin turbo. (sorry akirby you're probably getting annoyed of this by now) a twin scroll simply means that it is a single turbocharger but the way in which exhaust gas is delivered depends on the volume of exhaust coming out of the exhaust manifold. At lower revs, this means less volume which normally would not spool the turbo however the engine should have a a butterfly valve or something that would make the space the exhaust travels through to the compressor portion of the turbo smaller. Same principle of long or short exhaust headers, applies here exhaust gas will travel faster through a smaller space which will cause the turbo to spool at lower revs. Then when more exhaust is produced at a higher rpm the butterfly is opened removing restrictions and allowing more flow to the turbine. Anyways, not sure if you were wondering if there is a difference but there it is.

The gasket provides the sealing the loctite is really there to help the gasket adhere to the surface while you line the bolts up... hell you could probably use moly lube to hold it in place if you wanted to. Any other complaints, or is that clear enough for you? Seems very straightforward to me....

Must be, No MFT in my car and no component audio cables... who woulda thunk?

Nice vid, I'm sure someone on youtube will ask for a complete mod list luckily I get to scour the forums to try to find out what it is you have done as far as suspension mods lol

Ok, so I am no where near needing new brakes but I think this is something everyone here can get behind. Stopping faster and more efficiently makes for safer driving. Now, I'm not talking about a whole brake kit, I mean these are daily drivers, not track stars. That being said, does anyone have experience with EBC green/red stuff brake pads? Very curious about info on this, specifically with how they do on Fusions, but any experience with them is just fine. Now, before someone points it out I understand that there are several variables that play into braking performance (pads, rotors, booster pressure, and of course tires) but I have already decided to try to find a tire with a lower mileage warranty (generally meaning sportier and more grippy) to go with my brakes whenever I need to replace the both of them.... speaking of which does anyone know how long stock brakes last (ballpark, I know it depends on driving style) on the 2013+ Fusions (assuming no revisions have been made to the braking system between 2013 and 2016 model years) Lotta questions, I know, but as always your .02 is appreciated.

its an oilpan. 1. Drain engine oil. 2. Remove the couple dozen bolts holding the pan on. (I like to leave 4 corner bolts holding up the edges, and take those out last) 3. Get a razor blade and go around the mating surface for the oil pan and the bottom of the engine block to make sure all of the gasket material are gone. 4. Loctite on the new gasket 5. Install oil pan.

High voltage, as read by the signal sensing device in all of the ECM'S that I've ever worked with, is indicative of an open in the circuit. Low voltage is indicative of a short. Seems especially fishy considering the wrench light came and went. My only guess is that if the transmission were at operating temperature and water got on the connections it COULD have cooled the connection enough to shrink it, and maybe cause a temorary open in the circuit until everything got to similar temps again?