DuratorqSupporter

Traded my graphite blue metallic (loved that color) 99 Ford Taurus SE with the good v6, not the crappy vulcan. Bought it with 67k on the clock in 2012 for under 2 grand, sold it this year with 153k on the clock for 500 USD. What I will miss: The lack of all electronic driving nannies (I had no traction control, no stability control, and no abs) The interior space, the Fusion feels more cramped to me Not caring what happens to my car when I leave it in a crowded parking lot Not having to inspect the car for body damage every time I come out to drive it... or walk past it. the sound of a DOHC v6 from 3000 rpm- 6000 rpm What I won't miss: The dismal driving dynamics, that thing had enough body roll to scare you on the highway going around a gentle curve The way the thing looked (other than the color, I loved the color) seriously google 99 Ford Taurus and you'll see The complete inability to get anything higher than 24 mpg no matter how slow you go on the highway Adding a quart of oil with every tank of gas Wondering if today is the day my transmission decides to die What I can't live without Bluetooth in a car Global window open Dat courtesy wipe

What engine do you have? I'd assume this is for your 06 Fusion? If you have the 4 cylinder, an exhaust is going to kill your low end torque, specifically if you get rid of the cats or install high flow cats. While you may gain a couple of horsepower on the top end of your horsepower curve, back pressure is important on regulating torque on the low end of the curve and it will leave your engine feeling more gutless when starting from a stop. Unless you want to install a supercharger, or turbo setup you aren't likely to make serious power out of this motor unless you know someone who can cut some cams for you, and even then you won't get past 200 hp. Nitrous is always an option, and it is the cheapest route to make on demand power, and can be very safe if done correctly. The nice part about Nitrous is that kits are universal, sure they require a bit of fabrication, but usually install can be done with a basic set of tools and a little bit of ingenuity. If you have the 3.0 v6, well much of what I wrote above applies. I had the same engine in a 99 Taurus, albeit yours is a little more updated. Same back pressure rules apply with the exhaust and again, not likely to make much more power while n/a. If you are really keen on dumping money into your fusion to make it go faster, Ford Racing sells 2.0 Ecoboost crate engines, but iirc they sticker for about 10k. Add in the fact that you'd likely need a new transmission, and you'd prolly have to rewire the whole car and this quickly becomes a daunting task. Of note, however, Ford sold a number of the 3.0 Duratec motors to Noble. For those of you who have never watched Top Gear, Noble builds super cars. Noble fitted a twin turbo setup to these engines, and achieved a solid 455hp and put it in the Noble M15. So, if you just won a million dollar scratch ticket and the stars are still aligned for you, you could try scouring a junkyard for an M15 and try to pull the motor A more realistic engine swap could be seen coming from either the Mazdaspeed 6 or Mazdaspeed 3 as the "duratec" 4 cylinders, (in either 2.3 or 2.5 variety) Ford uses in the Fusion, were sourced from Mazda. I believe the 1st gen Fusions, such as yours, were very similar in layout (wiring etc) to their Mazda counterparts, the Mazda 6. Either way significant amounts of research would recommended before you even consider either of these swaps. Otherwise, you aren't likely to see any real benefit of doing any sort of modification to your engine. If you want to go faster, the best way to do it on the cheap is to lose weight.... off of your car that is.

The ONLY reason I would consider buying an MKZ over a Fusion, would be (of course assuming I had an extra 10 grand burning a hole in my pocket) to get the 3.7L v6. Otherwise the cars are essentially identical. MKZ is a little quieter, and the leather feels a little nicer, but unless you have to have the v6 I'd say stick with the fusion. I agree that the exterior of the MKZ isn't my cup of tea (specifically the grill), but if you like having nice interiors, its worth noting that you'll be seeing the inside of the car more often than the outside. Sit in both, get the one that has a better interior in your opinion. You'll get used to the exterior as I actually used to dislike the exterior of the Fusion, but have since grown to love it... just need to de-chrome the grill.

Yeah, K&N is an honest company. Their filters promote better airflow, although your horsepower gains will likely be negligible. They advertise the crap outta the fact that their filters provide more airflow, and it is a significant difference. *HOWEVER* you may notice they completely ignore any mention of ISO ratings. ISO ratings are the benchmarks used to test hundreds of different types of filters (oil, trans, hyrdraulic, air, etc), and they are the specifications companies, like Ford, use to determine which filters are OEM approved to keep the right amount of contamination from circulating. This is the part that scares me from using K&N air filters. Do they allow better flow? Almost definitely. Will they filter out particles of the same micron rating that your OE filter will? I sincerely doubt it if they let that much more air through. Sure you can argue that the oil is supposed to trap the particles that would otherwise get through, but if that were the case why wouldn't K&N advertise it? It seems quite obvious to me, that K&N doesn't filter as well as your standard paper filter. At the end of the day, you have to realize that your filter is there for a reason, to protect your engine.

Not that this pertains to my Fusion, but before this car I owned a 99 Ford Taurus SE in graphite blue metallic. Stunning car... stunningly ugly. It was a good car, bought it for 1700 USD in April of 2012 with 67k miles on it from an elderly man. He had all the documented maintenance on it, said he was a stickler for that type of thing. No battery replacement, in his entire pile of receipts. I finally bought a new battery when we had a cold day, iirc it was 12 below and something like 30 below zero with wind chill. That was last winter. Assuming that the previous owner kept all of his receipts (the battery I pulled out was a motorcraft) that means that that battery was something like 15 years old before it got replaced. The shop I worked for used to sell exclusively interstate, but they dropped interstate because of the way we had our warranty setup we ended up paying out the nose due to the number of prorated warranties we were handing out. Then we switched to duracell, I was only around for a few months after the switch.... but I feel like no matter what brand you use they all have their bad apples and outstanding ones. Some people swore by interstate, others thought they were garbage. I personally feel like its luck of the draw. Fact of the matter is the only reason the battery is there is to start your car, and keep your settings saved while your car isn't in use. After the engine is running, your alternator takes over so all of this hogwash about needing more amps than stock is ludicrous.

Wow, if I had found that I before I bought I woulda sprung for the 1.5 motor in the SE... oh well

No, all I'm seeing is a USB connector and a power point in the center console... I'll grab some pics next time I leave the house.

Ok, so for anyone who is concerned, there is absolutely zero change in mirror design for the 2015-16 model years of the fusion despite the other minor tweaks. The mirror glass for the 13-14 dropped right in and it works like it should. Also, removing the mirror glass was quite simple.If you look around on youtube you'll see several instances where people need to push or pull on tabs inside the mirror housing to removing the mirror glass from the housing. This isn't the case with the fusion, just get your fingers behind the mirror and pull out and it will pop out. The plastic frame the mirror glass resides in is pressure fitted so apply force (gently) and you should pop it right out. As for the glass itself, its held on by an adhesive to that plastic frame, I got a pocket knife out a started flaking the glass away as it had already spider webbed. I wasn't quite as wise as I should have been and I would strongly recommend you wear some sort of safety glasses before you go prying bits of glass backed by metal foil away with a knife, that stuff doesn't feel good in your eyes. I was smart enough to wear gloves though.

You'll have to excuse me if I don't take someones word on this when they say this isn't an issue. Ford said the trans in my last car (99 Taurus) wasn't an issue. But if you do a little digging, you'll see that those things were on borrowed time if they made it past 100k miles. Fact of the matter is, I don't know if you have any experience as a mechanic, but what I do know as a mechanic is that turbos moving without oil is not a good situation and I don't care who says otherwise. Either way, the point of this thread was not so much to start an arguement over whether or not the start stop system could hurt the engine, but rather to see how difficult it would be to implement its use on the 2.5L Duratec. Any members from across the pond that could verify whether or not the system is availible on the 2.5 over there would be greatly appreciated. Come to think of it, I don't even know if the 2.5 is available over there.

Ok, before someone barks it out, I have already checked the center console. There is only a USB connection in there. I have a 2016 Fusion S. Yep base as base models get. I still love her though. Whenever I click the media button on my dash, it gives me a few input options: Bluetooth (figured it out), Line-In, and USB connection. Well I see the USB connection, however there is no AUX jack availible despite the fact that the stereo system seems to think I have one. Is this hidden somewhere else? Was this supposed to be added at the dealer? Anyone have a pair of pennies they could throw my way?

Using only wheel weights in a single area of the rim is called a static balance, usually it works well enough to the point that an average joe driving around town won't feel a thing. If you want your wheel to be perfectly balanced, you need to get a dynamic balance done, this will have weights in two spot on the rim, usualy the inside lip and the outside lip, although they can put weights just to the inside of the spokes and still have it be well balanced. Road force balancing is also highly recomended, however if you are using static settings, it will only get so good. If you wanna fix this problem you need to get a dynamic balance. Also, outta curiousity, what kind of rubber are you running? You'd be surprised what kind of a difference quality tires can make. I've ran around on continentals, goodyears, yokohamas, kuhmos, and Michelins. Michelins were the last tires I bought and they made my 16 year old car feel completely different, in a good way. I don't think I'll be looking at another tire brand for a long time. Once I run through the goodyears that came on my fusion from the factory I'll be looking at BF Goodrich (owned by Michelin) and Michelin exclusively.

Well, no reply from the seller, since its only 20 bucks I'm gonna take the plung and let you all know whether or not its compatible. I'd imagine it would be, since the mirrors would be a strange thing for Ford to tweak so late in the life span of the current body style.

I must admit that I am ignorant of whether or not FoMoCo included a blow off valve in the ecoboost architecture, which would alleviate the issue, but then you would still have the turbo spinning since there would be no force keeping it from spinning....

Corect me if I am wrong, but isn't that still rough on the turbo? Having it go from 100k rpm (or whatever speed those things spool to) and then have the engine shut off, essentially having it hit a wall of compressed air?

A tip of the hat to your magnificence, kind sir. I will contact the seller imeadiately.

So I bought my car about 3 weeks ago, came out to it the other morning only to discover my passenger mirror was folded in. After reseting the default postion, I was greeted with a cracked mirror. The motor still works fine, but its difficult to get a good visual out of the mirror, especially when it is raining as I discovered yesterday. I saw the part listed on Ford's website for about 100 bucks. Seems a little outrageous considering that my mirrors aren't heated and don't have memory settings. Are there any third party vendors that sell mirrors at a lower price than Ford? I've checked the usual sources, and niether RockAuto nor Amazon has anything listed (on Amazon I could find the Ford part). I really don't have an extra 100 laying around in my budget right now and as far as I can see, the newer fusions aren't exactly piling up in junkyards. Any suggestions here? Also, what is holding the side mirror glass in? Is there some sort of adhesive? Or is there just a tab I have to somehow get my fingers into the mirror housing to release?

It would depend entirely on how much you use your brakes, as others have pointed out it will absorb water over time (out of the humidity in the air) on top of that, if you live in the mountains or do a lot of hard braking, heat cycling the fluid will slowly break it down also. Flushing the fluid with every brake change should more than suffice provided you put 12-17k on the car each year and you aren't using your Fusion to tow lol

If that doesn't do it, see if you can't get your hands on some gauges to see what your high and low side pressures are, also make sure you evaporator isn't getting covered in ice while the compressor is working.

Well damn, that is mildly disappointing. Guess I need to stop treating this car like my 99 Taurus, because those old clunkers were great for plug and play upgrades, you could buy a base model, visit a junk yard, spend $70 and after a few hours of work and swear words, you'd have a every option that came on the thing. Oh well, I guess thats the price of having a solid car.

Do we have any Ford reps on here that could confirm all of the wiring? I understand a lot of modules would need to be able to communicate to each other, but if I could reappropriate the right parts from a 1.5/1.6 it shouldn't be too hard I wouldn't think. If what you are saying about the water pump is correct then that means that it would have to be driven off of something other than the engine, not something I've seen in any engine designs although I am a relatively green mechanic. On to my turbo concerns, lets say that you preform a spirited take off from a stop light, only to have the next one (we'll say on the next block) turn red, since your turbo is spooled, you then come to a halt and your engine shuts down per the parameters that ford has set. I was always taught that on turbo engines after the engine is warmed up and put under load, the turbo will take time to spool down. Which is why after you have been driving for a while you are supposed to sit and idle for a few minutes, so that oil flows to the turbo while it slows down. Then again I really was only taught about diesel engines, so maybe gas turbos don't reach such high rpms. Either way I can't imagine its good for the bearings on the turbo unless there is oil flow going to it. Which as I had discussed earlier, isn't possible with the engine off. Either way, the whole ecoboost lineup employs low lag turbos, meaning that these suckers spool pretty quick and under not a whole lot of load. So you may not even need spirited driving to get the turbine spinning. The more I think about it, the more it seems like Ford almost intentionally designed start stop to give the engine a shorter shelf life. Everything else I have read about ecoboost motors (sans the F-150) has shown them to be quite reliable. Maybe ford doesn't want you to stop buying cars from them?

Title says most of it, but I'm going to ramble down here anyways because its my right as an American. Ford's start/stop tech comes, quite famously, equipped on the 1.5 EB engine in the Fusion. Not sure if it does come on the Titanium, but if it does I would find that equally appalling. Seems to me that if the turbo is spinning and the ECM decides to kill the engine, well now you have a turbo that was spooled and isn't getting oil. Unless ford has some sort of scavenge pump or other source of oil for the turbo while the engine isn't running, this sounds to me like a great way to ruin an engine relatively quickly. Anyways, I digress. My question is, how hard would it be to transplant the system in a 2.5L Duratec? Is there a special starter? Or is it just a programmable parameter in the ECM? It never made sense to me why this wasn't an option for the base engine as it seems like a much more practical way to get better mpg out of the base motor and if it is just ECM programming, well it would be really easy for Ford to be able to boost mpg ratings. Win win, right? I drive for Uber around the city part time when I need beer money, so I figure anything that keeps fuel consumption down would mean more cash in my pocket. Anyone here know if this is possible or what parts would be needed to make it work? Would really love to be a guinea pig on this.

Was contemplating doing this myself, but since I have white I was going to try to get a piano black finish

Hi all, my names Adam. I took delivery on my 2016 Fusion S just last week. Here's the first photo I took of her: And this was my last car: Good lord the Fusion is better in every way. Anyways, I'm a diesel mechanic, and I look forward to learning from the community as well as lending a hand where I can. I already have a few crazy ideas that I can't wait to hear back on from the community.