Mike7143

Somebody broke the driver's side mirror off backing out of the garage. Drove around a few day with a crafty duct tape job, no issues with BLIS or Cross Traffic systems prior to the event or for those few days. Ordered and installed a replacement mirror assembly from an aftermarket manufacturer (TRQ) that's got power, heat, puddle light, and 1-piece with blind spot. Now whenever I shift out of park I get "BLIND SPOT SYSTEM FAULT" and "CROSS TRAFFIC SYSTEM FAULT" in the dash and chimes. Disconnected the new mirror, plugged in the broken mirror, no issues. Plug new mirror back in, faults come back when shifting from park. From what I can tell by taking apart the broken mirror assembly, the BLIS indicator is just a LED on a little board with some surface mount resistors. The actual sensor is in the rear I presume, in the rear bumper cover. Doing my A-B-A swap would indicate the issue is clearly the new mirror. Question is, do I mess with a replacement and maybe mine is defective or should I just go with a refund and find a used OEM part because there's something odd with the BLIS indicator these aftermarket guys can't figure out? Certainly the LED indicator isn't somehow needing "programmed" or something?

Thanks for the reply @bbf2530 Unfortunately I know what you mean, I work in a service dept myself for heavy duty on-highway automatic transmissions and often times we come into issues where it's likely the OEM's wiring and I know it's not fun to let them know that, and this is a fresh reminder for myself now that the shoe's on the other foot and I'm the customer! I did just now track down the customer satisfaction letter and it mentions that engine power will persist, but at reduced level. Being that in both situations it completely turned off, and I don't have any lingering dash lights, perhaps it's not the TB issue. I'll double check battery connections but I don't think that's it as I've recently replaced the battery, but you never know! Good tip on hitting up the bigbox auto parts stores. I've got a bluetooth adapter but quite honestly it never seems to work right, but perhaps that's cause I've not bought and of the full-paid apps that are out there. Interested to hear if anyone else has had this occur though!

Hey everyone, gotta 2012 SEL V6 with 88k miles. Maybe a year ago now, driving down a road coming up to some real rough spots, pot holes. Traffic slows to about 5-7mph and as we're all kinda dodging holes, car is kinda bouncing around, I notice no response from the throttle pedal. Look down, engine is off, bunch of lights on. Put hazards on, shift to park. Try to start the engine, nothing. No cranking at all... so I'm like, crap. Turn ignition off, take key out, wait 10 seconds. Put key back in, key on, all looks ok. Crank, engine starts, put it in drive, and off we go like nothing ever happened! Chalked it up to who knows what, maybe some intermittent short, real rough roads... who knows. First and last time this happened... until today. Wife's driving car this time, going about 30mph, smooth roads. She's braking to come into a roundabout, foot off brake and back to throttle to leave when nothing happens. She said the engine was off, bunch of lights on. She put it in park, tried to start it, nothing. Calls me freaking out. Loading kids up into the van to go rescue and she calls me back saying she just turned the car off, took key out, then started it back up again, no issues, and she was off on her way... So that's now the 2nd time that's happened. Any ideas? Is this the throttle body issue?

4.4 wouldn't go back to Bluetooth input, nor the version before it. Waited a year and a half for the 4.6 update that Ford claimed would fix the known issue. Like a kid on Christmas morning, updated to 4.6 as soon as I could and, surprise, still not fixed. To my knowledge, it's never worked on my 2012 SEL and probably never will given that it's now 6 years old.

I've never been able to get the "remember last input" feature to work. Turn off ignition with Bluetooth and when you come back it defaults to AUX line-in. Others claim theirs work, but it's never worked on mine. "same" software, "same" hardware(?), different cars. At this point I doubt Ford will ever fix it. Is @FordIVTteam still around on the forum to offer any update? Last visit was January 30, 2017...

Sent you a PM

Figured it out for anyone who may have the same issue. 0. start a beer 1. hit all 3 buttons on visor 2. punch in dip switch code that was in the old remote 3. hit all 3 buttons on visor 4. press and hold far left visor button (for left door) until left door lifts, let go immediately after it starts opening. 5. hit all 3 6. put in dip switch code 7. hit all 3 8. press and hold far right visor button (for right door) until right door lifts, then let go. In this process, the left door opened first, ignore, let go when right door starts opening. 9. start another beer

Just got a new house and there are 2 separate garage doors. The openers are really old, fixed code. But something's changed, there's an Allstar MVP remote system on 1 of the 2 I think. There's only 1 remote with 2 buttons, one for the left, one for the right. There's only 1 bank of dip switches in the remote, no dip switches on the openers and nothing in the newer added-on Allstar box that's only on 1 of the doors. Can't figure out how to get the buttons in my visor to work. I got it working such that both open when left button is pressed which is better than nothing but the right button did nothing (middle shouldn't do anything). Then I had it so that both the left and right buttons on visor both only opened the left side, couldn't get the right side to open. I only have 1 "code" from the dip switches in the remote but somehow the one remote can operate both doors. Any ideas?

In the last 1,500 miles on my 2012 SEL 3.0 V6 I've been getting a squeaking sound. About 53,000 miles on it. Found the boot on the upper ball joint ripped, rusty inside. Sprayed some white lithium grease in it, no more noises. Any ideas on what I should pay to have this fixed? Is it difficult to do myself if I have access to a car lift? It appears the lowers suck, but the upper doesn't seem too bad. Only thing would be getting an alignment afterwards. Should I get an adjustable upper ball joint or no? Is this dealer work or any dependable shop? Also... worth doing the left side upper at the same time?

Whitney, The latest update to 4.6 did not remedy the issue. Do you know if and when there will be another update to remedy this issue? Thanks, Mike L.

Ugh. I just installed the 4.6 update. The issue STILL exists. I can't figure out how the software engineers at Ford haven't been able to fix this, twice now, over three YEARS and at least two software updates. That's absurd and embarrassing. I had a short glimpse of hope that were ultimately a fleeting moment. After installing the update I switched to the Bluetooth user input and listened to music while on the way to work. When I got to work, I parked, turned the car off, sat for a few minutes, and then restarted the car. For approximately 2 seconds, it was actually still set to the Bluetooth user input. But after the 2 seconds, it switched back to AUX IN wired user input. It almost seemed like maybe the update actually fixed the issue except that maybe there's too short of a "timeout" and if the phone/car could reconnect the Bluetooth connection fast enough maybe it'd have stayed. Unfortunately it had changed back to AUX IN and then shortly AFTER changing back it showed the Bluetooth indicator and notification that my phone was connected. I have no idea if that's what's happening, but perhaps the system, on start-up, looks for the paired phone for X seconds and if somehow it were able to reconnect before X seconds it'd stay on Bluetooth, but perhaps because the X second timeout is too short it's reverting to AUX IN since it doesn't think the Bluetooth device is around? Who knows. Absolutely absurd. And to add insult to injury, each day that goes by Ford will care less and less about fixing it. If they ever update it again, based on previous updates, I'm guessing a new update won't roll out till 2019, maybe 2020?

Whitney/Cara, It appears that there is finally an update to the SYNC system, version 4.6. Can you verify whether or not the issue with the Bluetooth audio input selection being lost after cycling the ignition has been remedied, as indicated in August of 2015? The change log for the new version doesn't explicitly mention it unlike the previous change logs did that you had mentioned was being addressed. Thanks, Mike L.

My PM from FordIVTteam indicated that the error was a known issue and is being researched. I was also told I would be contacted when a resolution is made... Let's see how long that takes... Also of note: the resolution could be that the update is made available but I'm guessing more than likely they'll "fix the glitch" and we'll be left waiting.

Cara, You had me PM you my vehilcle's VIN as well. I also sent you more information about accessing the Ford website which I also sent for your "case". Can you PM me any updates? Thanks, Mike

I sent FordIVTteam a PM as requested but have not received a reply back. I still have the same issue as atx32.