Bitfacetious

I've never had any issues with my car starting in the past; sure I'd put the key in, go to start it and nothing would happen. I would re-cycle the key and the old girl would start right up. Yesterday it started fine and I drove it the mile or so home from work. It sat for about an hour before I went to leave again - I put the key in and it tried to turn over but was unsuccessful. I then turned the car all the way off and tried to turn the key to start it again and got just clicking. When I turn the key past accessory to listen for the fuel pump after this, it did turn on. I sat for a sec and then tried again. Now the damn car tells ME that it's going to start the alarm if I don't start the car!! I CAN'T! Slowly, the battery drained (didn't dawn on me that the door was open, thus drawing more power from the battery) and nothing would happen at all. My friend came over, hooked up the jumper cables and it started right up. Drove it around for a half hour or so and parked it. this morning, it's dead again...click click click. I'm out of warranty on this POS at this point and am wondering if anyone's had a similar issue? This issue came on so suddenly that I'm left scratching my head. Tested the battery and it's full juice.

Same here. Just bought a brand new set for when the car gets out of the shop. I never realized they were two pieces until I watched the outer cap separate while trying to tighten one. Really ford?!

It's a common issue. There's a TSB for it. My dealership reprogrammed the PCM under warranty to correct the issue.

Yes. The dealership did the update for me under warranty.

Spoke too fast. The light will stay off until it's driven about twenty miles or so and then the warning lights flip out for about a minute and it stays on. Oh well.

All good. Just not used to the higher profile. Don't even notice it now. Thank you everyone for your help.

I figured. They looked like they seat the same as the alloys. And perhaps I should find a new mechanic since his balancing is sub par. Did you notice the car seemed to float on the new tires? I'm assuming it's because they're a higher profile although I've never felt it before but I've never done a complete rim size swap.

Mine didn't come on at all after installing rims without the sensors in my 2013.

I recently picked up four steel rims and 16" tires for my SE. I thought I had done all necessary research on making the switch from the OEM 17" rim only to have my mechanic tell me I need different lug nuts for the steel rims. everywhere I research, the part numbers for the nuts appears to be the same. Am I missing something?