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Ended up changing CV, slid right in back into position where original "WAS". Still no clue what happened nor why the OEM CV jumped out like that and decided to stretch but not willing to go back into place. Never see anything like it

Was doing front struts my son's 2014 SE. Easy job, done them many times on other vehicles. Passenger side as I was releasing top bolt to knuckle like jumped out at me as if it were spring loaded Tried to push the top of the knuckle and pivot it back up as you should be able to do (it should move freely when swinging up and down), but nothing. The wheel assembly (brakes, rotor etc) will not swing up now for me to be able to bolt strut to knuckled. Its almost like the CV popped completely out and now we're hitting a wall. Weirdest thing I've ever experienced when doin struts. even had bottom of control arm supported with a jack so we decided to cut the inner boot against tranny and remove the CV to see if maybe we goofed something. at that inside end of that cv are three wheels that go inside the cup. They will not go back in cup. any ideas? I've got two other close friends who also do lots of mechanic work dumbfounded by this as well.

Funny how all these years later, and now there is a recall on the shift cable that I had to purchase and change myself around 50k. Apparently not a rare problem, but I almost feel like I was one of the first. It’s meant to break. It shouldn’t be that way, but that’s how Ford wanted it. BTW…they use this very same cable on other vehicles as well. Neighbor across the street bought a new Edge. Checked her shift cable, sure enough….same plastic bushing riding on metal arm. What a brilliantly designed piece, Ford

And...I actually did buy a bushing kit from my local parts store. It has I think 4 or 5 different size bushings in it. One of them looked like it might fit, but since plastic becomes brittle heating up and cooling down, when I tried to put the busing in the end of the plastic cable housing, the entire end of the cable broke in my hand. That's why I had to buy a complete cable

Weird, mine has 52k. Yours must have been hit by a rock also. The "hit by a rock" comment actually made me laugh. I mean seriously, look at it. It would be pretty well impossible for a rock to ever make it in there. As I mentioned when mine broke, there were white plastic shavings all around the area which is a dead giveaway the bushing just sits there and wears little by little every time you move your shifter. Plastic bushing on a metal pin and plastic heating and cooling everyday = horrible design. Nothing more than a part that should not wear, but Ford says its a wear part. Transmission cables should never leave you stranded. I'm not an idiot, I actually have built many hot rods and modern muscle cars. I know my way around tools and cars. This Fusion is my DD. Not sure why the love and defensiveness admitting Ford engineering sucked on this one. Doesn't take a genius to see this design is awful and is meant to break Anyhow, I replaced mine last Thursday evening. Took me about 4 hours. You don't have to remove the dash, but you will have to remove all the trim around the shifter and what goes up and around the radio/ nav screen. You will remove the vinyl trim pieces running the length of the console on the side. Remove all these pieces gently working your finger or tools along the edge to pop the clips loose. Its pretty well all clipped in until you get those pieces removed to reveal the actual hardware of the console. You will then remove 4 screws where the console sweeps up and attaches to bottom of dash/ on sides of nav screen. You will see two larger bolts at the front of the console pointing towards engine bay. Remove those. Slide front seats forward and remove the two large bolts at back of console from rear floor board. You''ll see those once you have all the plastic side panels of the console removed. Then there are four maybe six nuts holding shifter down to the floor. Remove those. With all those bolts removed you should be able to lift console from the rear. All you're doing at this point trying to give yourself enough room to feed the old cable out and new cable in. Out/ in will be done through the console. It will not come through firewall. The oval plate built onto the cable attaches under the dash via two nuts right onto the floor well. This plate is basically a cable guide. The hardest part is feeding the cable under the abundance of wiring at the very front of the console, but you can do it. Just don't start yanking on the cable. Feed it, work it around etc. As for the part. No local store could get it for me. I was told by two stores the car is too new. It had to come from Ford directly. The part # is most likely DG9Z7E395L or DG9Z7E395M. You'll need to contact a Ford dealership and give them your vin so they can get you the right one Oh and one last thing. This will happen again. Its supposed to. Might not be a horrible idea to keep an extra cable or lots of zip ties to at least get you going again like I had to

Thanks for the link A tranny cable shouldn't break at 52K miles. When I pop'd the hood the area was littered with white plastic dust. A sure sign this thing had been wearing for quite a while. Think about how many times you move your car from park to reverse, or drive and then back again. A metal shaft wearing on the inside of a plastic bushing daily in hot and cold conditions is bad engineering on Ford's part. Many gear selection cables utilize a steel or aluminum type connection. Even using a shaft held by a washer with a cotter pin through it would be superior to this design. My comment about not experiencing this issue isn't a positive. What it meant was transmission cables shouldn't break. I've never had another vehicle, nor has anyone I know ever experienced such breakage. My Tahoe with almost 300K has never had a tranny cable problem. So if this happened at 52K I guess I should assume it will happen again before 100K. A pretty stupid problem to have. And if you google this issue, you'll find many other complaints regarding the same exact issue. Its a good way for Ford to get you in the dealership I suppose. Plastic sucks in weather. If its a hose clamp, fine. But a wear part that could leave you stranded. Shame on you Ford.

I have a 2014 Fusion SE with 2.5l. It has 52k miles. It left me stranded yesterday. Was leaving work and could feel shifter handle was dead feeling with no resistance when trying to put into gear. Discovered Ford used a plastic bushing at the end of the shifter cable to fit over the transmission lever arm. Plastic. Really? Hot cold hot cold, and a wear part...plastic? This is not a part that should fail. In fact, I've never had one nor heard of one failing. Anyhow, I managed to rig the cable to get me home. Ordered new cable. I can see it goes up under the floor area. Has any changed one of these? I assume it connect directly to the shifter itself and the console might have to be removed? Would love any advice, help or guidance that anyone may offer regarding this. Thanks

I think you are absolutely correct. I'm just wondering now if this is a common issue where I need to involve the dealership yet again

I have a 2014 Fusion SE 2.5 with about 30K on it. I had it in the dealership a month or so ago due to a fuel tank issue. My vin wasn't part of the original recall, but they went ahead and changed the fuel tank because they didn't know what else to do or how to fix my noise. It worked...sort of. The new tank got rid of the original noise, but now when the fuel level gets to about half tank there is this annoying hum from the rear seat area. Its a hum with a faint high pitch noise. Any ideas? My assumption is for some weird reason I'm now hearing the fuel pump. I've noticed the fuel pump is quite loud when you turn the key to the on position right before you turn it over. However why I'm now able to hear it inside the car while its running at half tank or less I do not understand.

Exactly what I was trying to describe. I've noticed since creating this thread that it might be fine for a day or 2, then the next day it will sound funny like a chime. In fact this morning it chimed. Killed car, got back in about 5 minutes later, back to audio. My dealership did however just update my software to the latest this past October. Problem never happened prior to update. Weird

Mine doesn't change the type or repetition of the beep. The beep itself has a completely different tone I guess is the best way to describe it. Its not a steady versus chirp type situation. The actual tone sounds completely different.

Thanks for the response. What really gets me is it comes and goes. It started a few weeks back as I pulled into work. It was chilly out that morning. By afternoon (once it had warmed up) when I left, sensor sound was back to normal. This has gone back and forth for a few months now. Its almost like (sounds crazy I know) the internals don't like cooler weather.

Hello all. New to the forum. I have a 2014 Fusion SE with my Ford touch. It has all of about 28K on it. I have a question about the rear park sensor sound. I bought the car this past June. When I'd get close to any objects, it of course would beep then once close enough. I've noticed lately (since its been cold out) that the actual sound itself is different then what it used to be. Its hard to describe, but used to the sound seemed to have come through the speakers when backing up. Now it sounds to come from the dash area only and it sounds cheesy. This only happens however (from what I've noticed) when the weather is cold out. Anyone experience anything like this? I have looked high and low on the web trying to find something, but no luck.