TXFRDOwner

BUMPING THIS ! .... Have masks in stock if anyone is looking to do this mod Ask me about cluster programming when you PM me, I know a guy. He keeps a stock on MKZ clusters too, so it might be one stop shop !!!

It's very tedious process to find used parts, having to call each junkyards, ask for pictures and hope for good customer service. But it can be done with a little bit of patience and save some money. Check out these websites: car-part.com TeamPRP.com ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Fusion-Sony-MP3-CD-Satellite-Radio-w-Audio-Climate-Control-Panel-OEM-LKQ/312982323864?hash=item48df334298:g:QjcAAOSwY0tePBGv HollanderParts.com https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts/2016/ford/fusion/entertainment/638-radio-audio/638-08251-control-panel,-id-gs7t-18e245-bbc/part-134831-2621-1 Lkqonline.com https://www.lkqonline.com/2016-Ford-Fusion-Radio-Audio/-hKP3cn3mOm/-i~233318272 GS7T-18E245-xxx HS7T-18E245-xxx

Even after you collect all the right parts and install them, your biggest challenge will be to program the modules correctly. I'm not saying it can't be done but you have a lot of homework to do if you want to do a Nav OEM upgrade.

can this file "JR3T-14G424-CD.TAR.GZ" be opened with notepad to read its content ?

Mind posting a screenshot of the files inside the "SyncMyRide" folder ?

I have these lenses/masks for sale Go there to see the Upgrade http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=5855

Updated Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143048747613 Sync-3 USB Power Harness Adapters

Anybody here that works for Ford can help me identify the part numbers for female terminals associated with this Connector ? ........ This is from an 09 Fusion it's a hybrid connector, meaning it has 3 different size terminals in it. Maybe there's a datasheet for this connector on file. It would certainly list the repair service terminals for it. Here's the part number for the connector: 5L5T-14A464-AA also known as Molex 3447-0201 (the one directly to the left of the blue one) it has 32-pins total The Gray one on the left

Did you ever figure it out ? ........ I'm doing this for a buddy in his 09 Fusion and I'm having the same issue, .. the lights stay on (when in Auto) regardless of daylight.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142894198125 Sync-3 USB Power Harness Adapter

I have them on eBay now: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142894198125

I make those for sale if anyone if interested: From 4-pin Sync to Sync 3 Harness ($25.00) From 12-pin Sync2 to Sync 3 Harness ($25.00)

to top or bottom piece ? Top is the cap, and I believe those come off very easily, ... the bottom piece (where the mounting bolts are) I would assume can't broken down easily since it holds the mirror motor, wiring, etc ... but nothing's impossible. If I had to get it open I would treat it like a headlight / taillight mod. ... heat it up until the glue that holds it together starts melting and then carefully pry it open. Or you can always take a trip to the junkyard and bargain.

http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/12119-adding-fog-lights/page-2? http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/15243-fog-daytime-running-lights-for-the-se/ http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/15015-ford-fusion-fog-lights/

it's best to take your car to a "tire only" shop if you need the work done right the first time. Nothing against them but Walmart automotive techs are not truly tire experts, so it's always a coin flip whether they're gonna do the job right or not.

Glad to hear it

Regardless of what setting I have it on, that thing is just running high and loud. I've read on other forums where the guy took his car to the dealer back and forth for 4-5 months and they finally figured out it was a BCM programming error, where the BCM was looking for certain components in the car (that weren't installed on his model) and was trying to compensate for it by running the fan on high constantly. Another guy said his was just replacing the cabin air filter. ... That's my first stop when I get off the road (I travel for work). I'll change the cabin air filter and see if that makes a difference. But it could also be something totally different. I just hate going to the close-by Stealership. Their customer service sucks and I have very little to no faith in their mechs/techs. I might have to drive a little bit further.

Rad fans running on high from the second I start the car til I turn it off.

I second the motion. ... The TPMS are interchangeable as long as they keep them in the same tire position they were removed from (LF, RF, LR, RR). Something to do with the way they're programmed with the TPMS Module with a distance parameter. I just upgraded my 16"s to 18"s ... Walmart and NTB wouldnt do it. Discount Tire wanted me to sign a waiver basically saying that they're not responsible for any damages to the new tires if they rub, because I went from the original width of 215 to a 245 and the label on the driver side door says to only replace with 215's. I went to a local tire repair guy and he swapped everything out for me (to include the TMPS) and mounted/balanced the old tires all for $100 flat. BTW .... I'm still trying to sell the old tire/wheel package.

According to this diagram it runs from the BJB through the BCM. So at the BJB (Battery Junction Box) in the engine compartment under your hood it should be F62 and F67. Again, .. That's only my understanding of this diagram. Other test points: At the BCM: connector C2280B pin 5 (YE-OG) & pin 12 (BN). Those two are the output 12V to the fog lamps. connector C2280B pin 21 (BU-RD) & pin 22 (BN-RD). 12V from the BJB to the BCM connector C2280G pin 20 (GY-BN). From the headlamp switch to the BCM.

if you have prior experience installing radios .... it's tedious but pretty easy.

Does this help ?

Your talking about something like this ? I already bought an RGB Kit from aliexpress.com for under $30. I'll use them for the footwell lights .... I plan on using single color 3mm LEDs (pictured above in post #14) on my door pockets, door handles, under the radio, and cup holders.

Like this ? (disregard the legend of power sources) Does it matter if both inputs are on at the same time, for example if source 1 (door open) and source 2 (instr. panel night lights) are both active. Wouldn't that create a short or overload ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131862114557?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=431209871451&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT