jpohlman

Pretty simple, needs a new camera. In this case it's not the miles its the years and electronics fail over time.

Depends on the year. The replacement drain plug that was factory OEM from 2011 forward has an integrated rubber washer. If you go to Ford parts or Dorman for one it will be that style.

I'd look for a loose ground or a problem with the BMS sensor. For some reason Ford likes to power the data bus from the BMS power.

Why not just pop the trunk lid trim and look at the connector? With any thing lower than a Ti that year the backup bulbs will be the only wires.

HG9Z-15K867-H

Is this the temp that is showing on the screen when the AC is turned off? Ambient air sensor is on the right side of the radiator under the nose, the sunload sensor is the wart on the dash between the defroster vents.

There is a thread over on 2gfusions.net about these

The switch is actually part of the latch assembly, so you have to replace the entire assembly. Check to see if your car was covered on the latch recall, if it's still open on the recall list it will save you from paying for a new one.

Are you doing the relearn using the rear door switch or the driver's door switch? The relearn has to be done on the affected door switch, not the drivers switch. A bad driver's door switch pack can also cause the problem.

The audit could have shown the dealer had the wrong part numbers on the repair order that they submitted to Ford for reimbursement. There was one sent out for the latch recall a while back where a second one went out due to some dealers using the original part which was in their on hand stock rather than the new revised part.

Best bet is to try a rim repair shop

That would be correct, the Sport button changes the shift patterns.

You can use vacuum line and constant tension clamps to repair this.

Did you move over the PDM & DDM from the original doors to the new ones? The modules are not the same between trims and even identical part numbers will need to have the car's AS Built uploaded into them to work correctly.

Does either port light up when the headlights are turned on? The console is just an port extension. 1) Yes - cable from front unit to APIM is connected a) Replace USB module (HS7T-14F014-AC) 1) Works - bad USB module 2) Fails - bad USB cable from APIM or bad APIM 2) No - check that cable is connected from front USB module to back of APIM. a) Cable is connected b) Replace USB module (HS7T-14F014-AC) 1) Works - bad USB module 2) Fails - bad USB cable from APIM or bad APIM https://www.searchfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-module-interface-hs7z19a387r?c=cT1IUzdaLTE5QTM4Ny1R

You can actually use any Fusion or Mondeo Mirror from 2013-2020. You only need to match features to your existing ones.

Take a look over at 2gfusions.net. A couple of guys over there have done this conversion.

The AC compressor cycle is controlled by the PCM. Your best bet is to be to take it to a shop where they can pull it down and then refill it.

1) Has anyone played with the car using ForScan? A bad config in the FCIM or APIM can cause the odd heat 2) How old is the 12v battery? My 2014 SE Hybrid did all kinds of strange things once the battery hit 6 years.

Platinum and Ti came with a CD, Ford got rid of it along the way for the SE. You would need an ACM from a 2016-2017 with the CD along with an FCIM that matches your car and has the slot in the plastic. Use Forscan to drop your AB into the "new" ACM & FCIM, the go into the APIM to enable CD as a source.

That's not going to work, Ford change the ACM in 2017+. You would need the ACM from a 2013-2016 with a part number ending in -C* (so CA through CM), the only thing you gain is HD radio as all of the Sony "umpf" is from the DSP in back. Once you source the "new" ACM you'll need to use ForScan to drop your current AB into it and then use ForScan to enable the HD Radio toggle in the APIM.

To make the HIDS work with a relay harness you have to drop a CANBUS load resistor in line with the headlamp trigger wire for the relay. Basically without it the BCM doesn't see enough draw and shuts down power to the low beam. The high beams are not monitored at all by the BCM.

Rear view camera module only has power in run.

You have to select in displays to put the battery on the screen. And yes it is entirely normal for the ICE to kick on unless you've got an extremely light foot, hence the reason for using pulse and glide when driving. This isn't an Energi which is meant to have an extended ability to run on battery from a dead stop. Mileage depends entirely on your foot, outside temp and the grade of fuel you use (87 octane from a Flying J took me down to 24mpg, I get 38mpg+ on Shell)

Check over on 2GFUSIONS.NET. Ponyguy has already had this done on his Platinum Energi.