farmerjg

2015 Fusion SE 2.5 non-EcoBoost 107k miles Maybe a little misleading title, but not sure how to explain it better. Last week my car was covered in ice, but it was only 25F, so not terrible on that particular day. I let my car warm up on defrost for 10 plus minutes (full blower). When I got in, the air wasn't 25° cold, but it certainly wasn't what one would expect for a hot car. Also, the temp gauge was buried on low. As soon as I put it in reverse the blower started blowing extremely hot air and the temp gauge started to rise and within ten seconds was at normal operating range. And I know what air feels like from a failed open thermostat, this was colder than that. Now, I hadn't put any more thought into it, but at the end of summer this was happening with my AC. I could warm the car up to get the air going, but it would just be slightly cooler than ambient air until I put the car in gear and then it would blow freezing cold air. Immediately. Just to get this out of the way, my coolant levels are fine and I operate at a good temp when driving. I don't think this is a coolant issue. So, what controls temp output of the HVAC system? Because this feels an awful lot like something is not commanding the right temperature. Do I have an electronic T-stat (or something like it) that's possibly not commanding until the car is in drive?

Hey, thanks! Look at that. At 5:18 of this video he clearly removes the same plug, and it is for active shutters. Thanks my man!

This is the back of the front bumper, passenger side. That plug (circled in red) has no obvious home. The fog light has it's own wiring harness that runs back to the driver side and out through the main plug. It certainly looks like it hasn't been used in a while, looks slightly corroded in it. I'm, like, 87% confident when I pulled the bumper off it was already loose.

Thanks for all your feedback. And yes, my wife will confirm for you that I am, in fact, an idiot. You are correct that it's in-between 3-4 this happens and not 2-3. Which also would throw out some of the traditional 6F35 issues because those are 2-3. I will update the post, thank you for that.

I put multiple words in the title because I don't know what it's actually doing. This is a 2015 2.5L Fusion. Fluid is fresh and good. In the video you'll see/hear; 4 sec - A good shift from 1-2 10 sec - A good shift from 2-3 14 sec - Uhh, what the hell? At this mark you see how the RPM's drop from 3,000 to something like 2,800? That is with even and constant accelerator pressure. It's like the transmission wants to shift so the RPM's drop, but the trans never actually shifts so the car catches itself, the RPM's kick back up and then two seconds later.... 16 sec - A good shift from 3-4 Nothing about the 3-4 is a harsh shift, it's just this hesitation. Ignore this whole next statement. My understanding of the 6F35 2-3 problem was that it's harsh. If it also does this then that's fine, I just didn't know that. Now, I'll state that is a consistent problem and that it only happens when it wants to go 3-4 (originally said 2-3, I'm also an idiot). That last statement was fact, and now I'm going to postulate a little. I'm not sure if this matters, and I'm developing the hypothesis and data to support, but I'm moderately convinced this only happens when it's sequentially shifting from 1-2 then 2-3. What I mean is, if I'm in 4 and I need to accelerate and it goes to 3 then it will not do it again when it eventually shifts back to 4. I know the 6F35 has a laundry list of issues, but I honestly thought some/most of that was fixed by 2015. I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts on the topic.

Found it! And since I have neither the will nor the desire to pull my pan right now and re-silicone the whole thing, I went with option B. Fingers crossed this gets me to my summer oil change and I can just do it all at once.

As stated, this is a 2015 2.5L Fusion with FWD with 82k miles. Whenever I change my oil I've always had a very oily pan/transmission housing. So last week I was down there I cleaned everything up pretty well and waited a week. Then tonight I was down there to do a trans fluid refresh. It was only dirty in this general area, but it had spread enough I couldn't tell where it started. So I cleaned it all up then took my post trans fluid change drive. When I got back the attached bolt was the only thing oily (this is the aft end of the engine, FYI). I understand how the pan is secured to the block and that this bolt is to the transmission, but I'm a little unclear if oil is supposed to be where this bolt threads in? And thus it could leak through? And if it's not, is my oil source maybe a poorly siliconed pan? For reference, the other dirtier picture was from a week ago. If you look at how the oil has walked up the block it makes me wonder if it is the pan gasket/silicone? And maybe it's just coming out there and traveling down that engine/trans flange into my bolt? I'd love to hear people's thoughts. Thanks!

A little late, but thanks for walking me back from the cliff bangster. I've had little to no coolant consumption and my cap is clear after long/hot runs. I've also mounted my expansion tank properly so I can accurately monitor level. Thanks again.

That's a valid question. The oil itself was not full on milk chocolate like I've seen in really bad cases. But it also wasn't strictly what I would have expected. I know that's a non-answer answer, sorry. This morning's drive to church, and yesterday's jaunts around town certainly wouldn't have been long enough to bake off any of that gunk, so you're right that this could be condensation. I needed to add a little more coolant today again since I was in there for an oil change. I'm going to spend the next week monitoring the coolant levels and the oil cap. Maybe I can get a better feel for how quickly I'm actually consuming coolant.

I've had a slow coolant leak for a long time. Today when changing the oil I seem to have found the issue. $%&$!!!!! Anyway. I've done BMW head gaskets before but never these Fusions. To make matters worse right now my library Chilton link isn't working so I can't pull the steps. There is certainly not a wealth of info out there about the 2.5L head gasket replacement. My main questions; 1) Any chance cam's can stay installed while I do this? 2) Roughly speaking what's the timing chain removal procedure? 3) I assume I'll need special tools for timing, does anyone have them that I can rent/borrow? I'll need to get to this sooner than later. Any info/manuals anyone has would be a huge help. Thanks.

I should probably think about somethnig for more than ten seconds before asking the internet silly questions. I didn't realize I could see the back of my wheel hub. Clearly the Amazon part is the right part.

Guys, I'm finally getting ready to do this. When I read the Amazon reviews (admittedly for 13's and 14's) there are people saying, based on their experience, that the ABS module bearing is not the right part for FWD vehicles. That the connector does not connect. Is there nuance here I'm missing? This seems to be at odds to conventional part lookups. Just doing my final due diligence before buying. https://www.amazon.com/MOOG-512497-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B0181GTW0I

Derp. You are correct sir. I see of no such pictures. Maybe I'm remembering one of the brick and mortar auto stores websites. Thanks for your help. The Midwest should be warming up enough to let me knock this out.

Thank you for this. So basically, when I see a picture (like on Rock Auto) that is purportedly of a rear wheel bearing for a FWD car and t doesn't have the ABS stuff then it's just a bad picture, right? So anything I buy will automatically have it.

Hey everyone, I have a 2015 Fusion SE 2.5L that is FWD. My rear passenger bearing is on it's way out. When I look at pics for replacement parts I can't tell if I'm looking at inaccurate pics or not. Basically, I see bearings sold with the ABS module and I see some sold without it. Am I good to buy one without the module then just swap it myself during install?

Any chance you have a Pic-A-Part type place around you? I would think those places would be plentiful up in the Big-D. eBay prices don't seem terrible, but it might save you a few.

Hey Jonathan, any update?

Are you talking about 2V321 in the attached?

Honestly, that kind of sounds like what mine does. My dealer said it was nothing to do with the suspension, though admittedly the brakes weren't checked. I just recently posted a question asking the same thing and am yet to hear back. If your dealer finds something please update a reply so I can fix mine too!

I swear honey, this is the first time this has ever happened to me. Immature jokes aside, would this always present as a puddle under the car? Can it leak so slowly that you never notice it? Just curious more than anything. I've heard this a lot about our vehicles so wanted to know how it would become evident.

Hello, everyone, I have a 2015 Fusion SE. About 37k miles. First off, I don't believe my car has metal retention clips around my pads. May I presume that they would be visually identifiable in my pic attached? Seems like a basic question, but the car is new to me and I wanted to be sure Ford doesn't do it some other way. All four sets look like this. So, reason I ask and care. When I hit bumps I get an incredibly annoying squeaking noise. I do not get the noise by braking, only by hitting bumps. My Ford dealer is pretty adamant it has nothing to do with any suspension component based on their inspection of the vehicle. Further, it will come from both the left and right side of the car, not always at the same time. So, if I'm missing the clips from the picture, have any of you ever heard of pads on the caliper housing making that sound? I've heard of rattling by not having the clips, but I've personally never heard this type of high pitch squeal from the lack thereof. Last question, do any of your rear rotors look like mine? Both rears look like this, but my fronts look clean. "Clean" here meaning my pads consistently wear off any surface corrosion. Yes, I know I should inspect my pads, I just haven't done it yet.

Hey drolds1, have you had success with requiring them to stick to service manual time limits? My experience is the customer buys off on a number on the high side so the dealership doesn't run afoul of having to ask for an adjustment of a quote. I'd be curious for how you insure they don't exceed those limits?

What are you torqueing to?

Holy pigtails! Thanks for the link. That index is very thorough to quote the great Maude. I shall start searching for PN's.

2015 SE - 2.5L So, see the attached picture, but basically, I had back surgery so I didn't drive for eight weeks. Do you know what a mouse can do in 8 weeks? Yep, decimate a wiring harness. And it drove like this just fine. I actually took it to my dealer for a warranty item prior to hitting my 36k and the mechanic found this. Anyway, they're checking if there's any other impacted wiring, but it looks like the coil pack may be ok. So let's say it is just the wiring harness, are there any tricks to this? I'm competent enough mechanically, but I don't like snags and I need to avoid snags on this because it's my daily driver and my wife works Saturday and I need to transport the kids. It looks to be all electrical fittings, but I can't find a non-CAD image of this part so I don't know if any of the connections are "different." Any ideas on access issues or can I get it all from above and below? Other question, is there anyway to not buy the whole harness and only buy the three connectors in this picture then pigtail into the existing harness? I can't find just the connector on any Ford parts websites. And last question, if I go look up this harness on fordparts.com it shows the part number as 12A581. But if you google that number you get different variants. After confirming with the dealer based on my VIN I would actually order EU5Z-12A581-C. And there are other 12A581's that are not EU5Z. So does anybody know what the EU5Z represents? And it seems I could only find it by calling Ford, any other ways for different parts to do this in the future?