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head4trauma

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  1. It's the paint. No scratches, chips.......nothing. Just that pushing up from under the paint.
  2. I know, this is unrelated, but I was just washing the windshield the old fashioned way, and I'm back on the "Seriously? Screw this" wagon.
  3. Exactly. It's not been an issue. It wouldn't been as big a deal if the dealership hadn't given me that BS. I'd rather hear, "we don't know". Instead, the reason they gave me, according to the owners manual, is impossible.
  4. I moved the charger to the other side of the gear shift Saturday. No issues since. I've actually had the charger in the same place (left of gear shift) for well over a year. So it didn't hit me at first as the cause. THEN it dawned on me, it started acting up the day after I had the steering wheel recall taken care of. Basically, after working on the steering wheel (which wasn't all that involved) it was slightly more sensitive than before and now picking up the chargers frequency. I figured it out, but what blows my mind was the dealership. They took a look at it, told me the battery in the fob was dead and that was the issue. And replaced the battery. Seriously! It's not a push button start. While I was leaving, I was silently telling myself, "this thing isn't going to start later this evening." It didn't. But, I figured it out now good to go. Had it not been for the dead battery issue I dealt with for a year and a half, I would have been more in a "things happen" state of mind. Having a car with less than 10,000 miles on it that starts reliably is high on my list of "desirable features".
  5. Thanks. Yes, it's an induction wireless charger (Samsung S8 plus). And yes, it only happened when it was in the charger. That's actually how I figured it out. I noticed it was only an issue when the phone was in the cradle AND charging. I unplugged the charger, no issue. Phone not in the charger, no issue. MOVED the charger, no issue. Even moving the charger half an inch further away had no affect. But when it was charging, and I put the thing close to the ignition, "no key detected" every single time. And I don't have NFC enabled since I don't use it for anything. I made sure that wasn't enabled when I suspected it had to do with the phone. I was just checking it out again a few minutes ago with the same results. So it looks I fixed the issue by moving the charger further away. It was to the left of the gear shift.
  6. I may have actually figured this one out. I noticed a certain pattern involving my wireless cell phone charger. It's sort of close to the ignition and I noticed if the phone was charging, no start. Signal interference. It wasn't an issue until after I had the steering wheel recall taken care of. And it was hit and miss. The only thing I can think of is the sensor in the ignition is somehow just slightly more sensitive. There was a difference moving it just an inch away, or slightly tilting it's angle differently. So I moved the charger entirely. I've not had an issue since. Of course, that still doesn't excuse the dealership for telling me it was a dead battery in the fob that caused it. It's obviously not a push button start. I would think they may have caught the actual issue. Maybe not. Either way, I was concerned about the BS they gave me about a dead battery in the fob instead of the actual cause. It just seemed like they weren't actually interested in finding the cause. To be honest, I would have been totally OK with, "You idiot, your wireless charger is too close to the ignition......" Instead of, "Good to go, all fixed...." then the car doesn't start less than an hour later. Behaving EXACTLY the same way it did that morning before the dealership looked at it.
  7. I"ll let the dealer do that. I'm taking it in this week. Being only two years old and under warranty, I'm taking no chances on screwing something up. I"ll let them tear into it. Though it has't acted up since I disabled remote start in the settings menu. But that could just be the cosmos screwing with me as usual.
  8. Thank you for the response. That's exactly what I thought on the fob battery. I just figured it was something new I may not have been aware of. And, well, the dealership said that was the issue and replaced the battery. I had a 2004 Taurus with a transponder key and no remote buttons, so of course it didn't need a battery. So, essentially, I'm back to square one since it appears they did nothing more than change the battery. There is simply no excuse for that. I'm pretty sure that may come up in my next conversations with them. I do have remote start, but never thought to test it. I did, however, go into the vehicle settings and disable the remote start entirely. I'm not sure if that will accomplish the same thing as unplugging it, but worth a shot at least. I'm not freaking out about it at this point. The other day was a different story, I didn't realize at the time it would be an intermittent issue. So if it acts up, I wait a minute, then it will start. But it will get fixed. I have a different outlook now that I know the battery thing was BS. As opposed to an actual "repair" that involved the car itself and not just the fob. The dealer I took it to isn't where I bought it. It shouldn't be a factor, but I made an appointment to take it where I DID buy it. Thank you very much.
  9. Hello all. Let me get this out of the way, I absolutely LOVE the car. Everything about it..........except for when it doesn't want to start. I have a 2016 Fusion SE that has everything I want, and nothing I don't. I was lucky enough to able to pay off the car the day I bought it. It's the first time I've ever been able to choose a car based on what I wanted, not how much money I happened to have at the time. But I was still prudent and spent a good 6 months researching what would be best for me. I drove it off the lot with 40 miles. It wasn't very long after that when I first had an issue. A dead battery. I figured since it was so new, I must have left something plugged in or something else. Then, at random, I would be heading somewhere and the car won't start. Dead battery. Since then, I've actually lost count of how many dead batteries I've had, and it's been to two different dealerships multiple times. One even installed a brand new battery. To this day, they still don't know what the problem is. They've never been able to duplicate the issue. Even after they had it for a week and a half. Then last week, a new issue. I got to work in the morning, and since I occasionally work at 2 other locations, it was leaving again in 15 minutes. Well, I thought I was. I got the "no key present" message and the car would not start. I don't have the push button start, so that's ruled out. So I called roadside assistance and they towed it to the dealership. (needless to say, I didn't end up where I was supposed to that day, and the paycheck will be a little less this week.) Things happen, I get that. But I bought a new car because I need something reliable. So, the dealership calls me and the car is ready. They told me the battery in the fob was dead and they replaced. That happens, batteries need replaced eventually. Even if only after two years on these. I can deal with that. So as soon as I got home, I changed the battery in the other fob as well. It took less than 24 hours for the same issue to happen again. "no key detected" despite new batteries, and both fobs in the car. It's an intermittent issue, but it's happened at least 4 times a day since it was "fixed". Any suggestions? I am at a loss. I'm taking the car back in this week, but my faith in the thing is seriously shaken. As much as I love it, it doesn't love me back. I live in a fairly small area, so in two years I only have 10,500 miles on the car. I would LOVE to have the issues fixed and drive it for another 20 years. That's why I'm asking for insights. More than likely someone here has had the same issue. Or advice. Two years is too soon to be issues like this.......that nobody can manage to fix. Even WITH a warranty. That concerns me less than not being able to get to work. They are only understanding to a certain point.
  10. I just realized I forgot to update. (new job, yadda yadda yadda). Anyway, from what I remember, it's been awhile.....they replaced an "iffy" component in the electrical system. And they replaced the stock battery with a name brand battery that performs a bit better in the cold. Not a single issue since. They told me the next time (if it did the same thing) to just call the dealer and they'd come check it out in the driveway, then get it to the shop. So that's what I did, had the car back the next day and I haven't had a single issue with the car since.
  11. Forgot something. They've checked over everything. Despite my car having less than 4,000 miles on it.
  12. Actually, it turns out to be an issue that's hit or miss. It's a known issue (by Ford) and they are apparently working on a permanent fix. Even though in park, the system believes it's sill in gear, so nothing gets shut down. The battery saver never kicks in. And (for lack of better wording) the computer continues to monitor and perform, as though the key is in the "on" position. Kind of like a parasitic draw, but it shows up as normal. I took it to the dealer this morning. I had heard about this, but didn't think it would be the same issue. The tech confirmed it is. The updated software that HOPEFULLY solves the problem. Unfortunately, this doesn't kick out an error code (surprised me too). So he didn't have a way of knowing if a part was needed in the shifter itself, but told me what to watch for. http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Fusion/2016/electrical/electrical_system.shtml#8 I know, the next link pertains to the 2017, BUT, it's the exact same issue I'm having. The obvious difference is the gear shift itself. The 17's have that rotary deal. http://www.fusionsportforums.com/forum/257-fusion-v6-sport-audio-electronics-lighting/3770-dead-battery.html Ford is aware of it, and working on a fix. Part of that was the software update. Hopefully, that's the end of it for me.
  13. yeah, That's where my head is going. SUCKS, I love this car. But needing to jump start it 5 times in the 8 months I've had it really blows. Especially since I traded in my 2004 Taurus I never DID need to jump start. I don't know crap about engines......electricity, yes. They assured me it was the battery this last time and replaced it. There goes that theory. And they never looked beyond the battery the last time. I even named her, held her so tight.........got interviewed by the police for some questionable behavior in my driveway... http://fordfusionforum.com/uploads/gallery/album_710/gallery_29769_710_146532.png
  14. Yeah, about that. I got another dead battery and took it in. So they checked out, installed a new battery. I was heading out last night...........dead battery. So I'm going in Tuesday. Less than 4,000 miles and FIVE jump starts? That's what buying a new car is supposed to avoid.
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