nickbuol

I completed the parasitic test and no unusual draw after watching the meter for about 10 solid minutes. Still stumped.

UPDATE: I updated my battery statement in the original post. It seemed to be holding good voltage after a couple of hours, but overnight was below 12V, then just now (still sitting and not running outside of one test start for 3 minutes 2 days ago) it is at 12.3V. So I updated that. Ordered a parasitic drain "test cable" (yes, I could have built one myself, but haven't had time). Not saying that is it, but I did have an older 2006 Ford Fusion (my daughter's car) have issues with the airbag light, and a few other things and it ended up being that there was just not quite enough battery power when the system started, but enough to turn over the engine (odd, I know), and I did the old fashion method of charge the battery, pull half the fuses, check voltage the next day. If the voltage kept dropping, pull the next half of the fuses and try again. Continuing until you no longer get an overnight drop. If the voltage stopped dropping after it settled from charging, then one of the fused you pulled is for a system that is causing the drain. Put half back in and try again until it starts draining again... Then check one by one the fuses that went back in when it started draining again.... When I did that on the 2006 fusion, I found that there was an issue with the trunk light staying on when closed. Short term "fix" was to remove the trunk battery. Problem went away, and honestly I never looked for a long-term fix since that worked and my daughter didn't care. Takes a while to do this though, so I got the cable instead. Showed up today. Going to see if there is a drain on the battery. *IF* I can get the car running enough, I am also going to have the battery tested, but I am not 100% convinced with battery tests from Advance Auto or O'Reilly's... Had on 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix. Battery was 4 years old. Tested good at Advance, and bad at O'Reilly's. Couldn't sort out an electrical issue there either, so I replaced the battery and the problem was fixed. Anyone have any other thoughts or ideas while I try this out?

No worries. I should have explained better. Thanks for your input.

Yeah, in the 3rd video, if you listen closely, you can hear me shifting to park, start the engine, quickly shifting to Drive, and then if shuts down and tells me that the Transmission is not in park. I got about 3/4 of the way into the garage up until this point and our garage slopes outward slightly. I was trying to drive it in the rest of the way and document the odd behavior vs. putting it in Neutral and pushing it in. Every time the engine started in the 3rd video, it was in Park and I was pushing the button to start it. Yeah, internet diagnostic is tough for sure. I appreciate you taking the time to look and respond.

Battery is 2 years old. I checked for corrosion and connection tightness and that was good. Grabbed the voltmeter and am getting 14.1v when running and it is holding (no longer dropping) 12.8v after sitting for a few hours now. That was a great question so I added my response to my initial post as well.

Not even sure what to say about this, but it is a major problem. This has happened 3 times now. Once about a month ago, and I thought it was a fluke. Then it happened twice today about 2 hours between both instances. 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with push button start and remote FOBs. Car is started normally sitting in the car, pressing the brake pedal, pressing the start button. Car is put into gear (forward or reverse) and start to drive. Car at an undetermined amount of time, but so far within the first 30-60 seconds of starting, will just shut off all electricity. Not just kill the engine, but everything on the dash or infotainment system turns off some times, but not all times. Then power will come back, and then off again, and then it will even start the engine itself, shut down again, sometime just start in "accessory" power mode (not full engine start), and off. Not only does it scare me that it is shutting off while driving, but if the key fob is in range, it actually seems to be able to start the engine. I took 3 videos of it happening. Videos 1 and 3 show more of what is happening. During the videos, I am just sitting in the car. Not touching the brake pedal, not pressing the start engine button, not doing anything with the key fob. I even took the battery out of the key fob, and it still does it, but at least can't start the engine. Thoughts on where to start? Battery is 2 years old. I checked for corrosion and connection tightness and that was good. Grabbed the voltmeter and am getting 14.3v when running and it is holding (no longer dropping) 11.9v after sitting overnight. That technically is a "dead battery" but it never has an issue starting or running anything when not having this problem. I was still able to start the car 2 days ago and let it run for about 3 minutes (while I tested the running voltage). Now it is reading 12.3v after sitting. So inconsistent... Yes, I tried two voltmeters. A newer one, and a really old one that I had, and they both read the same to the first decimal place (old one doesn't get more specific than that).

Not even sure what to say about this, but it is a major problem. This has happened 3 times now. Once about a month ago, and I thought it was a fluke. Then it happened twice today about 2 hours between both instances. 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with push button start and remote FOBs. Car is started normally sitting in the car, pressing the brake pedal, pressing the start button. Car is put into gear (forward or reverse) and start to drive. Car at an undetermined amount of time, but so far within the first 30-60 seconds of starting, will just shut off all electricity. Not just kill the engine, but everything on the dash or infotainment system turns off some times, but not all times. Then power will come back, and then off again, and then it will even start the engine itself, shut down again, sometime just start in "accessory" power mode (not full engine start), and off. Not only does it scare me that it is shutting off while driving, but if the key fob is in range, it actually seems to be able to start the engine. I took 3 videos of it happening. Videos 1 and 3 show more of what is happening. During the videos, I am just sitting in the car. Not touching the brake pedal, not pressing the start engine button, not doing anything with the key fob. I even took the battery out of the key fob, and it still does it, but at least can't start the engine. Thoughts on where to start? Battery is 2 years old. I checked for corrosion and connection tightness and that was good. Grabbed the voltmeter and am getting 14.1v when running and it is holding (no longer dropping) 12.8v after sitting for a few hours now. Videos:

So the replacement parts came today and the replacement was pretty easy. For easy reference for anyone else, this is in a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with the 2.0l engine. Attached are the error codes from the app (I know that the scan was only 6% done, but those were the pending codes P0087 and P00C6. I know that some people disable the fuel pump relay, but I wasn't going anywhere while waiting for the parts to arrive, so the Fusion sat for about 24 hours in a cool garage when outdoor temps were around 40F for a high during the day. Doing so seemed to relieve all fuel pressure in the lines and there was no fuel spraying out at all. I also attached photos for the old and new sensors. Passenger side of front of the engine. 1-1/16" deep well socket - Despite the old one being quite dirty, this came off fairly easy, mainly due to how easy it was to access. CM5225 (old part was marked 0261545039) $53 from RockAuto Driver side of engine closer to firewall. 15/16" deep well socket and 12mm wrench to hold fuel line so that the torque of removing sensor doesn't damage the line. It took a bit of force to get this off. CM5250 (old part was marked BU5A9F972BA, replaces part CM5226 as well) $50 from RockAuto I added a little bit of dielectric grease to each of the plugs before reconnecting them. I started the car and checked to make sure there were no fuel leaks just for good measure. I re-scanned the car for pending errors, and they were gone. I am about to go drive around a bit in town to make sure that it everything works well and then hope that the problem never comes back.

I know that this is an older thread, but this just started happening to our 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium (about 82K miles on it) within the last 2 weeks. At first I thought it was a fluke, maybe bad gas etc like others thought, and then it just kept happening. Not every time we drove the car, but enough to be a great concern. The issue would happen regardless of how recently gas was put into the tank. In fact, I don't think that any of the stalls were right after fueling up, but none were with the tank near empty either. (I did use this as a reminder to my wife to stop fueling up when the pump clicks off. She drives the car the most and was still filling up to even dollar amounts... Yeah, I didn't know people still did that either. She didn't know, so I won't blame...) Same symptoms: After parked for a little bit, or sitting idle, and then when you start to try to go (at low speeds) it starts to chug and the natural instinct is to try to give it more gas, but it doesn't care what your foot is trying to do (LOL) and it stalls a few seconds later. Four times going through an intersection after stopping, and twice leaving a parking lot. That is too much, so I started digging. No CEL, but I wanted to see if there were any pending codes. I have an OBDII bluetooth adapter and an app on my phone called Torque. It was able to read 2 pending faults: P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low) and P00C6 (Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking). Google searching got me to this discussion. Restarting the Fusion works, but it has to turnover a few more times than normal.... To the point where it is scary to be in the middle of an intersection feeling like it isn't going to start... After restart, it runs fine again for a while. So of course we are heading out of town this week for Thanksgiving, and really want this fixed. Local parts stores (Advance, AZone, O-Reilly's) don't have any sensors in stock, and I call a dealership and they want $110 for one sensor, and $125 for the other... So off to Rock Auto. I know that there are multiple cross reference numbers, but I ordered the CM5225 (BM5Z9F972A) and CM5250 (BU5Z9F972B, CM5226) and paid for overnight shipping ($128.54 for both sensors shipped). Maybe it is just one sensor, but when heading out on the road, I don't want to hit a catastrophic failure somewhere along the way. Yes, most of the driving will be at highway speeds where this doesn't ever seem to be an issue, but I don't want to get stuck in some emergency situation either. Hopefully this will resolve both P0087 and P00C6. I don't see much reference to P00C6 though with most google searches taking to sites talking about P0087 and but no mention of P00C6, so not 100% sure there. Just sharing where I am at with a few more part numbers since people tend to reference different things. I am going to get a few deep well sockets today so that I am ready when the sensors show up tomorrow (1 1/6", 15/16", 26mm, 27mm are all frequently referenced) and report back what fits the best. I was going to replace the fuel pump in the tank first, but came across this forum post which replacing 2 sensors *should* be a lot faster than the whole pump. Fingers crossed...

I know it has been a long time, but I never did come back to close out the resolution for this. Long story short, and $97 later, my local Ford dealership went it and connected the system to their "diagnostic" tool and basically just "reset" everything with the tool. Total process took them less than 30 minutes from pulling the car in, to me driving away after they reset it and did their own test drive.

So I put the spare tire on. Admittedly, spare tires are not designed to be "quiet" so I expected some noise, but the noise was fairly constant and not the "pulsing" sound that I was getting with the O.E. tire. However, I now think that I have 2 issues. 1) The tire is bad, 2) my front rotors are warped a little. With the spare tire on, there was some pulsing sound, but VERY minimal compared to when I had the one particular regular tire on, and braking still had some pulsing too. When I removed the spare tire and put the other back on, the pulsing sound was there whether I was braking or not, and the braking pulsed more, plus I could "feel" the pulsing in the steering wheel with no braking applied. So again, at least 1 bad tire, and probably new rotors (and brake pads even though they are far from worn). I didn't measure the tire tread depth, but they still have a lot of tread on them. We've had the car for about 18 months, so I am guessing that the previous owner already replaced the tires before we got the car and picked out the O.E. tire as replacement. Local places are quoting nearly $900 for 4 of the General Altimax RT43 tires installed, and the price is a solid $1000 to go with the Continentals. That is a lot more than I've ever paid for tires for any vehicle before, including the performance Pirelli tires that I bought for a previous supercharged sporty car that I got rid of about a year ago. Must be a higher price due to the 18" size vs. 17" and 16" of my more recent vehicles. Maybe there are other tires to consider???

Yeah, the Continental ones have 759 ratings and 684 reviews - 9,745,942 Total Miles Reported The General ones have 354 ratings and 319 reviews - 3,792,403 Total Miles Reported I've attached the Tire Rack comparison for Grand Touring Tires that they scored #1, #2, and #3, plus the OE Goodyears that were ranked #20 out of 21 total. You can see that these tires all rank a LOT higher than the OE ones. TireRack had a higher rated tire than these, but with zero miles reported, I just removed it. Also, they list 44 total tires in the All Season Tire category, and the rank for the Pirelli, Continental, and General tires stayed the same, and the OE Goodyears dropped even further. LOL I'm not saying "no" to the Continental tires. I just need to get some prices ironed out. General has a rebate right now, and Continental just had a rebate program that ended about 6 weeks ago. So the $$$ spread right now is somewhat substantial. If the rebates were the other way around, then it would be a wash in price. There are some tires with only like 34k miles reported, so I don't put a lot of value in that, and the Continental have 2.5x the number of reported miles than the General ones, but at what point is it "enough" miles to be validated? That is the question. Thanks for getting me thinking more about these. Also, I didn't get a chance to try the spare tire tonight as my wife had the car all evening, and I have been caught up with other work around the house. It is already 11pm, so I am lacking motivation tonight. So tomorrow it will be.

I was actually looking at General AltiMAX RT43 tires for the fusion. SOOOO much better rated that the OE Goodyears, and about $120 cheaper (due to rebate) than the Continentals that you list, and $215 less than the top rated Pirelli's (all per TireRack's pricing and reviews). I've never owned General brand tires though. I use TireRack to find the tires that I want and then always try to support the local shops. Even if I have to wait to get the tire I want, like you said, many will price match or come close to it, and then you get a little better support later if needed.

We are the 2nd owners of the vehicle and bought it with 38k miles on it. I guess that it is possible that the previous owner replaced the OE tires with more of the same. Good point about putting the spare on. Such a simple, but effective idea.

Just looking for someone else to keep me on the right path here... 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with approximately 58K miles (235/45R18 94V tires) Has had what I normally call a "wheel bearing noise" problem for a couple of months coming from one of the rear tires. From the driver seat, it is hard to tell anything beyond it being one of the rear tires. My son-in-law rode in the back seat and thought that it was the rear passenger wheel. So I was going to go get a wheel bearing today and make the swap, but the closest place was out, so I figured that I could just order online and have it shipped. Before I did that, something in my gut said, "jack up the car, check for bearing noise, and if nothing obvious then do a tire rotation and see if the sound stays put." So i did just that. I got what I would call slight brake rotor noise from both rear wheels. The tires are solid when trying to move them left to right and top to bottom. Take the wheel off and turn the hub and it actually sounds more like a very slightly warped rotor than a bad bearing. The would be for both rear hubs. So as I am spinning, I notice that the rear passenger side (again the side that my son-in-law thought was the source of the noise) tire had what I would almost call a "flat spot" on it as it rotated. You couldn't really tell a difference when the tire was sitting stationary, but if you spun it, it was definitely noticeable. So I proceeded with the tire rotation, and sure enough, the noise is no longer in the rear, but seems to be the front driver side, and now I can feel it in the steering and when braking. So bad tire, right? I mean, it seems obvious, but I am just trying to save the diagnosis fee and order tires from TireRack that rate a bit higher than the lowly rated OEM Goodyear Eagle LS-2 tires that are listed almost at the bottom of the barrel of tires for this car. Again, if there are other ideas, those are welcomed as well. If I have to take the car in for someone to look at it first, so be it, but if it is clear that the tires are done, then I would rather put that diagnosis money towards a better quality tire. Thanks.