sirtanon

These have sold.

Honestly, you could probably stretch the first one out to 45k or even 60k, but I'd stick with 30k. As far as heat goes, I live in Phoenix, and it regularly hits 117F during the summer. sometimes even over 120F. I still did 30k intervals and hit 274k.

Wow, that is dark. And only 45k? Must have worked it pretty hard.

As Bangster mentions, you just can't replace the outer plastic on a headlamp assembly.. you'll pretty much have to replace the whole assembly.. and IMHO, you'll want to replace as a set if they're more than 4 or 5 years old. Your bio mentions that you have a 2012, so I can definitely offer an alternative option: aftermarket headlamp assemblies. I bought a set of Spec-D headlamp assemblies a few years back for my 2010, and the same set will fit yours. They originally sold for about $250 for a pair, but I just found this on Amazon for a SMOKING price of only $145: https://smile.amazon.com/Spec-D-Tuning-LHP-FUS10G-TM-Projector-Headlight/dp/B0751WRS23/ The ones I bought were the chrome version, not the 'smoke' version, but they still function the same way, and these are about 60% the price, and are actually sold by Amazon, so you get full return policy and support. Definitely worth a try.

Mercon LV will darken pretty quick - in my experience it will go from a bright red to a "Grape KoolAde" purple in around 25k - 30k miles. While this is largely just an appearance thing, and the fluid can easily go longer, with the 6F35 it's still a good idea to do a single Drain & Fill roughly every 30k miles just to keep the average age of the fluid low, as well as to keep it cleaner. Doing a 30k interval SHOULD keep your 6F35 going for at least a couple hundred thousand miles. My own factory 6F35 trans in my 2010 made it to over 274,000 miles doing this.

Yes, you did, and in your initial post, you also brought up tires, which implied that the tires themselves were also up for discussion.. especially after you posted this in a later post: Again, you can buy whatever tire you want for your car.. but if you ask us for input and help, it comes off as rude and confrontational if you then turn around and essentially call us stupid for our responses. .. having said that, I suspect we won't see any more posts from you. Whichever tires you buy/bought, enjoy.

That's fine, man. Your car, your choice. I will point out, though, that you DID come on here and ASK us for help.

It's not what was said, but how it was said... You asked for opinions from forum members, and if you bother to go back and look, you'll see that everyone who has responded has both been a member here for ages, and have owned Fusions for a LONG time. Perhaps, it would be useful to heed their advice. As to the tires - I've owned numerous Goodyear tires over the past couple decades, and I can say without any undue bias that out of all of them, I've had AT BEST, mediocre experience with them, and at worst, terrible experience with them. We have made our suggestions based off of personal experience, and not just based off of reviews that we've read online. If you haven't already bought your tires, may I suggest you continue looking. From my own personal experience, as well as from discussions with MANY people, may I suggest that you consider Cooper. Their CS-5 Ultra Touring tire is an exceptionally good, and widely touted tire. The last tires I put on my 2010 Fusion before I sold it were Cooper Zeon RS3-A tires, and I can tell you that my experience with those was exceptional. 40,000 mile treadwear rating, but I got over 65,000 miles on them over the course of nearly 3 years, and they still had between 5/ and 6/32" tread left when I sold the car. This is driving in Phoenix year round. If you want to get indignant and snippy, that's fine.. but just remember that we're just trying to help you.

Just went out and took a picture of the label on the top of one of the boxes. Both boxes have the same label. I honestly don't remember exactly when I bought them, but I believe it was early last year. They've been stored in my garage since.

I have a New-in-Box pair of Monroe Quick Struts for sale. These fit a 2010-2012 Ford Fusion as well as 2010-2012 Mercury Milan. They will fit both right and left side, and are a complete strut assembly, including strut, spring, mount, bearing, etc. I bought these originally to install on my 2010 Fusion, but I ended up selling the car and never got around to installing them, and unfortunately, it's past the returns window, so I can't even return them. They currently sell for around $104 each, but I'm willing to let them go for just $125 for the pair. As I mentioned, they are NEW in box. They have never been installed. I'm willing to entertain a reasonable offer, but please, no lowballing.

I agree with everything that has been said above. Additionally, unless you got a SMOKING deal on that car, I would either go back to the dealer to discuss what you've found, or contact Ford corporate directly to alert them to this issue. This car should never have made it through CPO certification, IMHO, and I would personally be concerned about whether or not future CPO warranty work would be covered.

as bbf mentioned, the underlying causes can be very different from car to car. On my 2010 Fusion, at one point, I started getting the wrench light while driving, and chalked it up to the ETB. I replaced the ETB and then about 1 month later, it did it again, so I got an OBD-II reader and the Torque Pro app and got a Transmission Speed sensor code.. started thinking about how I was going to resolve that issue, when I just happened to get the wrench again at a very opportune moment.. .. I was sitting at a light, it was starting to get dark, and I turned on my headlights when it happened. As it happened, I had swapped the stock bulbs out with an HID kit I had bought off of Amazon, and after doing a little testing to see if I could recreate the issue (I could, reliably), I realized that if I was driving when I turned on the headlights it would almost ALWAYS throw a wrench and go into limp mode within seconds. If I was in park when I turned them on, it would not, ever. Solution? I pulled the entire HID assembly and put LEDs in. Never had the problem again. Why am I mentioning this? I don't know what, if any, mods you have made to that car, or if it's a legit issue.. but whatever is causing the code could be very unique to your car.

Well, no.. there's a difference. You said: your words: "all Fords".. Your experience would include your Fords, not all Fords. When was the last time you owned a ford? What year was it? If it was a Ford from between 1979 and 1992 or so.. I can sympathize, because my family and friends had numerous Ford vehicles (mostly Escorts and Tempos) that were utter turds.. but the same thing can't be said (as a rule) for Fords made after.. I'd say.. around 2000 or so. I had a 2000 Taurus that got totaled at around 160,000 miles but was otherwise pretty reliable, a 2003 Mercury Sable that I sold around 187,000 miles, which had required a few minor repairs in the previous 15,000 miles or so, but nothing very expensive, and then my 2010 Fusion that was a dream to own until around 215,000 miles when I started to get a misfire on cyl1.. and even that only cost about $1500.. Hardly money pits. YOUR experience may have been bad, but you can't extrapolate that all the way out to ALL Fords.

Wow, that is cheap. I wish I could get them done that cheap here. There are no shops that I could find that would do an engine swap anywhere near that cheap, which is surprising considering all the places there are in Phoenix. I originally took it to the local dealership to have them do a Mode $06 scan to better diagnose the issue. I also know a number of people there, and they're a family-owned dealership rather than a huge chain. If I thought I could have gotten an engine swap done for cheap, I would have. $1200 was way out of the ballpark.

CPO is Certified Pre-Owned. Basically, used vehicles that have received additional certification (and accompanying warranty) from the dealership/manufacturer.

Replacing the engine cheaper than pulling the head and fixing the valve(s) on one cylinder? I'd be shocked if it was really actually cheaper How much did they charge to replace the engine? I ask because I had a P301 on my 2.5 Fusion about 2.5 years ago which turned out to be a bad exhaust valve, and the dealership near me pulled the head and had a local machine shop replace the valve, etc.. and the whole thing cost me less than $1600.

Does this happen on all road surfaces or does it only seem to happen on some? I ask because I know in some areas, the roads have grooves ground in to them to allow for water channeling, and I've experienced issues in the past where tire tread likes to track in and out of these grooves, and it ends up pulling the car sporadically in different directions. I can tell you that, as a rule, the Fusions are good in terms of driving straight on smooth, flat roads. This isn't a widespread issue. How old are the tires on your car and that brand/model of tire are they? Also, the first thing you need to do is take this to an independent shop that does alignments, etc.. they can tell you if something is loose, etc.. which might cause this.

SP530 plugs are SP530 plugs everywhere. If they were different, they would have different models/designations.

For my money, Iridium is the sweet spot, and I personally either use Motorcraft or NGK in my Fusion. For the relatively minor increase in cost per plug, you get MUCH longer life and better wear characteristics over Platinum.

I think you mean 3.. are you King Arthur from Monty Python's Holy Grail movie? ?

If you can get $25 per tire for those, you'll be lucky. Assuming they're all of similar age and in similar condition, they're not worth much, especially Tire 1, as others have pointed out. Even with 5/32" tread left, at 6 years old, they're nearing the end of their life.

For those just recently posting in this thread - There are a multitude of reasons that this kind of vibration, but they almost all certainly originate from the engine in some way. Mounts are a common cause, and there are 3 mounts in the engine bay - The transmission mount, the engine mount, and the "dogbone" mount. The dogbone mount is the easiest to check, and also the easiest to replace and cheapest. There are a few good videos on Youtube showing this. Fuel/air/spark delivery issues are another cause. Bad spark plugs are a good place to start, along with coils. Next would be air intake - filter and throttle body. Fuel injectors are another potential cause, although as a rule, the ones on the gen 1.5 Fusions seem to be pretty robust, so a fuel injector cleaning like Techron is worth a try. Depending on the mileage on the car, a misfire is also not out of the question. My own 2010 Fusion has experienced this. Low compression will lead to either an actual misfire, or low power contribution from 1 or more cylinders, and this will certainly cause vibration, especially at idle. If you have the capability, doing a compression test on all 4 cylinders is an easy way to check this. A decent compression tester can be had for under $30.

No, by active, I mean people buying. Think about it - As Ford and other automotive manufacturers stop making sedans, there will be less options on the new car market, which means that people wanting sedans will have to start looking more and more at the pre-owned car market vs. the new vehicle market. and to say that "so few people will want one" is also speculation and IMHO, inaccurate, but I guess we'll see.

Well, I think the only thing we can say is.. "At this point in time, manufacturer metrics are stating that people don't want sedans". It can make no definitive statement as to whether or not - as a whole - the buying public will or won't want them in 3-5 years. Personally, I will still want a sedan in 3-5 years. I know MANY people who will, as well. Additionally, the statement refers to NEW car purchases. The used car market will still be PLENTY active for sedans in 3-5 years. In fact, I'd wager that, comparatively speaking, sedans will be MORE active in the used market relative to other vehicle types, than they are today.

This was my first thought. Musty smells are not entirely uncommon, usually caused by A/C.. but rotten or garbage-y smells are completely abnormal. Almost certainly, either something got in there and died, or you had food that fell out of a shopping bag, rolled or slid under a seat, and now has started going rancid/rotten. You need to go get that car out into a well-lit, open area and start digging through it to find where the smell is originating.