sirtanon

To properly answer this, including all the details involve could easily take a full page response.. so I'll condense and just give you the basics. You'll need an install kit to account for the larger/different unit. I'm assuming you're talking about an aftermarket head unit. Something like a Scosche, Metra, or some other branded dash kit that will replace the overall plastic surround and allow you to properly mount it, as well as potentially relocate other controls, like the A/C. You'll need a wiring harness of some sort to convert the output connections of the new head unit to the car's existing harness. Under no circumstances should you cut the wires and just splice. If you want to use the car's existing steering wheel controls, as well as potentially other connections/features, you'll also need a kit for that, which converts the signals from those controls/connections to something the head unit can interpret, etc.. This will definitely require some kind of programming to work right. Depending on output levels of the new head unit, you may also require some kind of intermediate device to adjust those to work with the other existing components of the car's audio system. .... What year and trim level Fusion are you planning on putting this in to? I'm assuming, since you mention an existing 4" screen, that you're talking a 2013 or newer.

How hard do you drive, accelerate, brake, turn, etc..? To what pressure (psi) are you inflating your tires? What driving conditions do you drive in? Hot, cold, smooth surfaces vs rough, etc.. Is there any noticeable vibration or pulling when you're driving on a flat, straight road? What tires are you buying/running on that car? Do you get your tires rotated regularly?

Hard to say exactly over the internet, but if the pressure test is correct, and there are no 'leaks', AND you can smell coolant slightly under the hood, then my first guess would be the degas bottle has overflowed some.

If this work was done at a Ford dealership, I would go straight to Ford regional management and have a discussion with them regarding the clearly bad work done at the dealership, and let them know that you expect them to make things right, such as with a warranty on the transmission, "as a result of the dealership's negligence." I'd suggest having a conversation with the dealership's manager first, but based on what you've said regarding the service manager, I highly doubt that would get you anywhere. Regional management, on the other hand, generally have a different set of motivations. ... Having said that, I doubt that running the trans low on fluid for the one day caused any lasting damage, especially since it drove just fine under conservative driving conditions. The likelihood here is that the only time it ran low was when you floored it and it suddenly pulled more than it had to spare. Still, it's better to make sure this incident is noted officially, so speak to the regional manager.

The 6F35 transmission gets an undue amount of negative comments because, early on at least, there were some issues with its reliability, including shift quality, shift behavior, etc.. but the truth is, those kinks were worked out long ago. Programming updates, minor re-engineering, etc.. have resolved virtually all issues with this transmission. It's a solid transmission - Ford would not be using it, even to this day, in so many vehicles, if it wasn't. The only real remaining "issues" with it - and I hesitate to use that word, but I will for argument sake - are related to the Mercon LV fluid it uses, how hard it is on it, and the lack of a user-serviceable transmission fluid filter. Because the transmission case is a clamshell type, an does not have a transmission "oil pan", there is no way to replace the transmission filter without completely removing and splitting open the transmission. It does, however, have a drain plug from the factory, which means that it's super easy to drain and refill the transmission fluid on a regular basis. Most Ford mechanics, as well as owners who are mechanically inclined, will tell you to do a drain & fill of the fluid every ~30,000 miles. I am one such owner, and I do my own drain & fill regularly, about once per year, which for me is between 25,000 and 30,000 miles. You asked about 6F35-equipped Fusions out there with over 150,000 miles, and others have mentioned that there are people on this forum with Fusions over 200,000 miles. My Fusion is one such Fusion. If you look in my signature, you will see that my 2010 Fusion now has over 267,500 miles on it, and still has the original engine and transmission. As I mentioned, I do regular ~30,000 mile trans fluid drain/fills, and have yet to see any issues with it. I also have done numerous Used Oil Analyses on both the engine oil and trans fluid, and the numbers always come back excellent. Maintenance is the key. Keep up on it, and odds are excellent that any Gen 1.5 Fusion will get you WELL past 200,000 miles, and IMHO up to 300,000 miles. I firmly expect mine to get well over 300,000 miles, although my goal is quite a bit higher - 484,000 miles.

Keep in mind also that ambient temperature can definitely effect the sound that your trans makes. I know that my Fusion's 6F35 trans is not the same as your AISIN trans, but what I say below will likely still apply to your trans.. My trans, despite having 267,000 miles on it, is still normally pretty quiet, with just a slight hum during normal operation. However, with overnight temps in Phoenix dropping down into the low 30's / upper 20's, I've notice that when I go out in the morning to head off to work, the trans has a much more noticeable, fairly loud hum when I first start the car and for about 5-10 minutes, gradually quieting down as it warms up. In your Fusion, is the hum noticeable at all times, or just when it's cold? Otherwise, I agree that if you've never changed the fluid before, a fluid change will hopefully help.

The O'Reilly Auto near me will machine rotors for $10 each. If you have one near you, it may be worth it to check and see if they have a similar rate. I know with brakes I've had in the past that had a bit of a pulsation, it was frequently due to either a "hot spot" or similar. In some cases, a few hard-braking stops from 50mph or so can help to smooth things out. One rotor, however, had a really bad "hot spot" and the only fix was a new rotor.

Don't forget also that the substantial increase in tire diameter (2.2 inches) will have a comparable effect on circumference and therefore your vehicle's odometer and speedometer. No way would I put those tires on that car. Just for reference, if you DID use those tires on that car, when your speedo says you are going 65, you would actually be driving at 70mph. If you were ACTUALLY going 65 miles per hour, your car would think you were going 60.35. Not good. What made you curious about these specific tires? Also, when you say "fit the fusion" are you referring to just the bolt pattern or are you also considering the offset, etc.. ? Keep in mind, the 2011 Fusion SEL came with either 225/50R17 or 225/45R18 wheels.. going with 16" wheels would be a "step down". If you really want to/must go with the 16" wheels, and they do indeed meet all the necessary specs for the Fusion, then you'd be better off going with either 225/55R16 or 215/60R16. Both would keep you within about 1% of stock circumference.

You definitely can't go wrong with the genuine stuff - Motorcraft Mercon LV - but another alternative that works well is Valvoline MaxLife trans fluid (in the red bottle). I've been using it for years without issue. Valvoline is definitely cheaper ($18 or so for a gallon jug at WalMart, etc.. ) vs. roughly $5-7 a quart for Mercon LV ($20 - 28 a gallon), but the difference is negligible, so if you can get the Motorcraft stuff, it's not a bad idea to stick with it since you're under warranty.

I can't speak in regards to the Nav update, since I don't have Nav in my Fusion, but I believe I CAN speak to the whining sound. Without hearing it, if I had to wager a guess, I'd say you're probably talking about the idler pulley bearing whine that is fairly common on these cars. Do you have the 2.5 or the 3.0 in that car?

As a rule, drilled and slotted rotors on a standard street-driven sedan are overkill and unnecessary. Additionally, they will cause your brake pads to wear at a substantially increased rate. Your best bet is to get a good set of standard rotors and quality semi-metallic or ceramic pads. I recently did the rear rotors and pads on my 2010, and used Raybestos rotors and Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. They work great, stop very well, and are super quiet (pretty much silent). After replacing the rears, I got the old rotors cut at the local O'reilly Auto, since they had plenty of metal on them and were not rusty. The fronts are up next, and I'll be using the same combination for those as well, most likely. I already have the Wagner TQ pads, and if needed, I'll be buying Raybestos rotors, but I'm first going to see if I can get the existing ones cut.

As a rule, drilled and slotted rotors on a standard street-driven sedan are overkill and unnecessary. Additionally, they will cause your brake pads to wear at a substantially increased rate. Your best bet is to get a good set of standard rotors and quality semi-metallic or ceramic pads. I recently did the rear rotors and pads on my 2010, and used Raybestos rotors and Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. They work great, stop very well, and are super quiet (pretty much silent). After replacing the rears, I got the old rotors cut at the local O'reilly Auto, since they had plenty of metal on them and were not rusty. The fronts are up next, and I'll be using the same combination for those as well, most likely. I already have the Wagner TQ pads, and if needed, I'll be buying Raybestos rotors, but I'm first going to see if I can get the existing ones cut.

Yeah I was just in at the dealer a couple weeks ago to talk about this. Seems that Ford has now put them on what is apparently a "Ticket" system. They open a ticket for a customer whose car needs the recall work done, the ticket initiates a part order, and then the ticket updates when the part is in, and the customer gets a call.

I'll give you a comparison operating heat range for my 2010 Fusion, driving here in Phoenix, during summer. I run Torque Pro on an old phone in my car whenever I drive long distances. This includes my daily commute to and from work (55 miles each way). I live in Phoenix, and during the summer, heat regularly goes over 110 degrees in the day, often going over 115. This past summer, driving home in July and August through rush hour traffic (some stop-and-go and some cruising), with A/C running on full, high temps generally remain between about 201 and 206F, but there were plenty of times they got up to 210 - 213F. I never saw them go higher than 213F as long as the engine remained running. I CAN tell you, however, than if I pulled off the highway and shut the car off, to stop and get gas or hit the store, after I got back in the car, I frequently saw the temp dial hit 235 - 243. It's called "Heat Soak" and it's normal. I never see the needle on the heat gauge on my instrument panel get that high, though. Not even close, even when my Torque Pro is showing 243F. Think about it, the temp gauge is actually measuring coolant temp, which, thanks to the thermostat and water pump, very rarely goes over about 212F with the thermostat "fully open" at it's high-temp setting (should be around 210F). HOWEVER, the cylinders (and thus cylinder head) metal is going to be quite a bit hotter than that. If you've been driving for a bit, especially at higher RPMs or under high load, and then shut the car off, the extra heat from the cylinders/head is going to be absorbed into the coolant immediately surrounding it and heat it up, since there is no longer any circulation occurring with the engine off. When you first start it back up, that extra hot coolant is going to be read by the CHT gauge, until it gets replaced by cooler coolant as the pump starts to do its thing. Now, 219F with the engine running seems higher than I would expect. Either your thermostat is not the right one - with a temp range too high - or it's not opening enough/sticking. There are other possibilities as well - clogged radiator not allowing proper cooling, weak water pump not providing enough flow, etc.. - but my money is on the thermostat. .. that is, assuming that it's not your CHT, as Bangster suggested.

Welcome to the forum! I too have a Gen 1.5 Fusion (a 2010) with the 2.5, and have owned it now for over 4 years. I did ultimately name her Scarlett, although it's the first time I have named my car. She's up to 264,000 miles now, and I'm hoping to keep her until she hits 484,000 miles, at least. Your 120,000 miles is just breaking Norman in. This engine and trans combination can definitely make it to/past 300,000 miles with proper maintenance and care. There's lots of excellent knowledge on this forum, so it's good you made it here. BTW, what color / trim level is your Fusion?

Lots of factors in the construction of the tire can impact fuel economy. Type of "rubber" material used, quantity, size, and layout of belts, tread pattern, etc.. all come into play. Additionally, tire pressure plays a huge part (probably more than anything else), and of course, driving habits. A "regular tire" with a harder compound (such as might be found in a tire with a very long tread life warranty), filled to a higher-than-normal air pressure can realistically outperform a "fuel-efficient" tire which has been underinflated, or even inflated to a "normal" pressure. Food for thought.

I just had to replace one of the TPMS sensors on my 2010 - the passenger rear one - but that was because they are now about 9 years old, and reaching the end of their functional life. The TPMS sensors in your 2016 should still have many years of life left on them. I'd say either one is defective, or something is interfering, as bangster is suggesting. Also, have you had any flats at any time in the past few months, especially if any type of 'fix-a-flat' or other goopy type substance was used? What about potholes or other hard hits?

I agree about punctuation, grammar, and spelling. I realize that forums are not meant to be the same as writing in a professional environment, but let's face it - When you write well, people are going to be more likely to both comprehend what you're saying, and respond in kind. It's just human nature. I know when I see posts from people who clearly quit paying attention after 1st-grade english, I tend to zone out/recoil... I wouldn't say eGuru's response qualifies as "grammar police". I read it more like he was simply venting a very relate-able frustration over what I agree is a disturbing trend online. Having said that, nobody is ridiculing you, and as you can see, we want to help. I think bbf2530 and drolds are right on in their analysis. Welcome to the forum!

Depending on how fast you're going for those two miles, if the brake pads were out of alignment, or tight on one side, I would expect the affected wheel to be quite a bit hotter. I know when I did my rear brakes, the passenger side was initially just a bit too tight, and the wheel got HOT after only about 1/2 a mile of test driving. Once I made an additional adjustment and test drove it again, everything was fine. Now, one wheel being hotter after 50 miles of driving could simply be that those brakes are grabbing more because they have more material or are having to re-compensate for having been unused for a while and are thus just doing more of the work. If they were really bad, after 50 miles, I would expect the wheel to be red hot.

It's normally the inboard brake pads that wear more than the outboard ones, primarily because the piston is on the inboard side. If the outboard is wearing more than the inboard, then I'd wager there's an adjustment issue, or sticking and/or insufficiently lubed pins. I just did the rear brakes on my Fusion about 2 months ago, and this was the case - the inboard pads were worn pretty much all the way down, but the outboard pads had about 1/3" left of pad material. Because it had been approximately 4 years since the rear brakes were last done, and it gets super hot here in Phoenix, the grease in the slide pins was noticeably degraded, so I'm assuming that amplified the uneven wear somewhat. They did not slide as freely as they should have. I also use my parking brake every time I park the car.

Yeah, sorry. That's what I meant. It's a Monday.

Now you can see a better pic showing how she looks with the new rims, and no damage. Lighting wasn't the best, but it's something at least.

Still have the wheels. Dropping my price down to $280, if anyone is interested.