2ndNewFordGuy

Ok Thank You! Safe to assume that applies to my (2017) 1.5 EB as well. Soooo now I'm back to being at least somewhat concerned about the carbon build up issue, just, still, not quite yet. (@6k-ish miles) next oil change I'll probably take out the MAF and give it a once over. Then depending on what I see in the process of doing that, decide whether or not I need to take any action with regard to the rest of the intake. Thanks again, good info.

Apparently there is no longer a means to "select as answer" (was there ever?) you can mark as "like" , or, "thanks", which I've done to the two responses I would "split the points" for. Bangster said: " There are plenty of upper intake cleaning products that require the engine be running when you do them " this would apply, near as I can tell, (EB-wise), only to cleaning solutions that are put in the gas tank. ref anything sprayed down the intake this comment runs counter to common wisdom I've come across, including obviously this thread. I guess for now I'll assume the "2nd gen" EB engines don't have this problem aaaand time will tell. FOR NOW the majority of (2017 and up) so equipped are still mostly low (sub 20k) miles. in year or two, that obviously will change and if then these engines do prove to be having a similar problem, I assume the interest in this will heat back up. Thanks again to all.

Apparently most/a lot of this is old news to everyone but me, and that's mostly my bad as I don't do enough to keep up. I'll take a shot, maybe, at a separate topic on the Catch-Can. If it lands with a dull thud I'll take the hint. Thanks everyone for your time.

the following is comment from the above video I posted which raises an interesting and perhaps very relevant point "Brian M 1 year ago Two Questions: First, It seems as though carbon buildup on the F-150's 3.5L Ecoboost has not been as much of a problem as other EB engines. Is that a fair statement, or am I just not seeing them show up on Google? Second, the 2nd gen EB on the 2017 F-150 adds traditional intake port injection to the direct injection. Ford says those injectors should be running most of the time and the DI only kicks in with high power demands. Do you anticipate carbon build up still being an issue on 2nd gen engines? Thanks, Brian" For the record there was no reply to his comment. SO MY question, is it safe to assume my 2017 EB has this same added "traditional port injection" and, that, the "DI only kicks in" when you stomp on it? and, if so, is it then same to assume this whole "carbon build-up" issue is pretty much a non-issue on "2nd gen" engines ? (especially if I'm feather-footing it about 98% of the time)

First sorry for the lag/making you all wait. Shift work/most of the internet blocked at work-bla-bla but mostly I-R-Bum. the feed-back here on aggregate is consistent with most "thinking" I've come across other places. A couple of you referenced youtube or posted youtube links. Ironically it was a Youtube vid on this that lit me up 5 or 6 months ago. I can't find the exact one now but I believe it was this guy: in this one he mentions the earlier one (believe was the one). ON THE ISSUE of CLEANING, and specifically MINE at only 6k miles I believe we're done. Don't worry about it until at least 11 or 12k, at which time it might be worth it do a REMOVE and "bench-clean" on the MAF, (wouldn't it be "MAS"?) My question is if I mark a post as the answer will it close this topic? I ask because I have related follow-up about "Catch-can" yea or nay". Should I start a new topic on the Catch-Can or continue with that here?

Thank You all! Good info. Loving the back and forth. I believe the right answer is already 'here' but I'm going to let this wash-out for another 12-18 hours before reacting to specific points. For SURE this WAS the place to ask.

I could only find one other short-lived thread on this topic and nothing in it answered my question(s) on this, and I have several. Hopefully I'm not wrong to start fresh. Apologies in advance. 1.) Do Ecoboost, ANY size engine, (2014-ish- 2018), INTAKE, ever require cleaning of any kind (Sea Foam, CRC). Because I've talk about carbon build-up that occurs in places were cleaners you dump in the TANK can't help. AND BECAUSE, edging up on 6k miles, it SEEMS like mine is idling just tiny bit rougher than it did 3k miles ago. (If the answer to # 1 is a qualified NO then the following questions all become moot. Apologies in advance.) 2.) if so, are there methods of doing so that are safe for the owner to perform themselves? 3.) I bought a can of the CRC MASS AIR-FLOW cleaner. (Which as yet I have not done anything with) The instructions for which are ...involved... you don't just pop out the air filter and blast away... Should I use this (obviously as specifically directed) at all? 4.) Assuming for now, (stop me if I'm wrong) there are good reasons why the same thing that cleans the mass airflow sensor can't be used for the rest of the intake, is there anything that CAN BE, that might not say "direct injection intake cleaner" on it. The reason for this potentially stupid sounding question is, I'm over-seas, (U.S. Spec Fusion), and Amazon won't ship (to my "APO), the CRC or the Sea Foam or the Gumout brand, Off base I can't find anything, and on base the only aerosol-intake cleaner of any kind is the "Chemtool B-12", Thanks in advance for putting up with me again. You Guys f'in ROCK!

Interesting. I didn't realize that about the fuse-tap, but I DID include/have considered a "downstream" as you put it tap. IOW finding a wire feeding something that does what I want the ambient lighting to mimic. There is a "plan c", similar to paying to have it done, a "partial surrender". I could give up on the "luxury" of the FW lights coming on with the parking lights and timing out with same, and just ACCEPT them as manually SWITCHED, and WIRE them into the 12v-ciglighter port. When I need them, plug 'em in. I don't love it but would be super simple, and still better than NOT having them at all.

Then again I could just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1BMMUQYA6PCBE&colid=V0L1L3MCIUR8 in advance and supply the Italian mechanic with it. Then all I'm paying him to do is pull the right fuse and shove this thing in it's place. not much to "hack up" there I guess.

just two things, ref: "BCM or your remote start"-tap), Merlin made accessing the fuse sound pretty tough, for anyone, but, I'm pretty sure he was referencing at least a couple-years older Fusion, so, until I give mine a good look, I still can't be sure my 2017 isn't just slightly easier. (?)(again I'm asking). I mean, all I have to do is pre-load the right-amp fuse into the $7 "Fuse TAP Adapter" then pull the right fuse and replace it with the tap-adapter. OK, assume for the sake of argument, you think that is the case, is locating the Remote-start lead, ALSO, in your opinion, sure to be over-my head? ( or more specifically, out-of-reach-awkward-wise for my old-guy back? I've actually done quite a bit of my own work over the years. (Well beyond oil change-level stuff)

Thanks EGuru, Yes I have in fact considered just paying to have this done. The last time I had my Focus worked on was the FIST TIME i found a guy I actually was happy with. The over-all majority of previous jobs-I-didn't-do-myself were notable for various degrees of hack-grade work. WHICH when it was a 5-6-7-8 year old Focus, not nearly a dear-to-me as this Fusion is now, was not AS big a deal. BUT if the guy, as you suggest, just "drops me a lead" off the parking light circuit, there's not too much there he could "hack up", I guess. I'm still not having a real warm-fuzzy at the idea. The car is so new I'm literally still on my 2nd tank of gas.

then of course there is THIS: (Originally Posted by MERLIN on another topic) I have a port that looks A WHOLE lot like this on mine, very easily accessible under the dash, but, on that same thread EGuru seemed pretty sure none of the "pins" on this were "switched", exact quote: "Pin 2 of the OBD2 connector is not used in the Fusion and Pin 16 is always hot. So this is not a good choice for your project." ARE we sure NONE of these pins are 12V- switched? I mean, I guess it wouldn't be too hard to break out a $10 multimeter and find out for myself... BUT upon quicky looking it up on AMAZON I see now what this is for, and then it's quickly clear why ALL of the connectors for this are strictly two-ended (nothing with just wires on one end) AND why this probably is a dead end for this purpose.

I forgot, there IS ONE other (I know of) possible angle of attack on this question. The 12V cig-lighter-outlets and/or Add-on boxes that plug into them. Maybe there's one out there that provides for a time-out. The main rub here being my 12v outlets don't power up with "door open" you have to START the engine.

I am looking to add (LED) lighting to my foot-wells, front for sure and maybe backseats too. Not concerned with cup-holders, govebox or trunk, just the foot-wells. I'm pretty sure I'm ok on what sort of lights to buy and how/where to mount them up so they won't look tacky. My primary question for the group is where/how-best to tap my 12V. Ideally, I'd like the them to come on with the parking lights when I open the door. and similarly time-out after walk-away. It'd be nice if they timed out after I got IN the car, say 30 sec or a minute or two, but that's no big. If they stayed on-full-time (with the parking/running lights that'd be acceptable. Options include the fuse boxes obviously. One super awkward (I've heard here) to access up under the dash. The other engine compartment, easy access but unknown how to then get through the fire-wall. Then there's tapping into the power line for a light or other device (the remote start?)that's already ON the desired fuse/relay. From nosing around a couple per-existing topics here that touch on aspects of this question I've gotten the impression this is not nearly as simple, or casually entered INTO, as I had originally anticipated. (part of why I'm starting a new question/topic.) ...Starting to wish I'd've just couhed up for the TITANIUM, but the for almost 7-large more the Titanium came with a ton of other stuff, pretty much NONE OF which I wanted. Ambient Lighting was the ONLY thing, and it really irked my oysters the neither the LUXURY PACKAGE nor the TECHNOLOGY package (nor getting them together) got you the ambient lighting!! Mifff! thanks in advance,

AAAAND check it out. The 12v power outlets in mine DO TIME-OUT. It's not quick but it's not an all-nighter either. After noticing this morning the USB-Stubby I had left in it was DARK, I've been monitoring it since I got to work here. Somewhere between 1H5M and 1H 15mins it went dark.

Merlin, I apologize in advance (kinda my thing) if this is a stupid question, (also kinda..), but... If your goal, (because I have a similar one here) is to have the "added accessories" POWER OFF when the car is powered off, then, once you have tapped in to/"connected to one of the fuse block pins that is ONLY Hot when the Car is ON" why isn't THAT "job done"? I must not be entirely understanding your particular requirements...

this is really nice but I need something like it that "times out" automatically or better yet a configurable time-out.

Specific to this topic, I do have info which as far I know is new. Cutting to the Chase, the 12v power outlets DO "time out". But it's kinda a "good-news-bad-news" thing too. OK, SPEAKING ONLY for my 2017, last night I left a USB stubby in the visible 12V port. It surely remained lit after the parking lights timed out. BUT when I came down in the morning it was off. That's the "good news". The only good news. First bad-news was it doesn't switch back on with the parking lights. (when you open the door). It stay's off until you actually START the engine. Bad News #2 is the "time-out" appears fairly lengthy. I've been looking at it about every 15 minutes since I got to work this morning and.... well, 45 minutes and counting, no joy. Still lit.

will do

Sooooo THIS sound's like the way to go for me, (and my f'd up back)...tap off here and FIND A WAY to sneak it through the firewall... gotta be easier than going after that box under the dang dash...

just reading this made my back tweak out a bit.

I really need to get up under mine with a good flashlight and the right GLASSES and see what I can see... Mostly it SOUNDS LIKE you guys are referencing, mostly, 2012, 2013-14-15's.... I'm sure you guys are right but I'm holding out a dim hope my 2017, is, in-some-less-of-a-nightmare-way, different. For... TINY HANDS I have not. Bad back? Check. Last under the dash work on my FOCUS (a clutch cylinder) I paid to have done.

yeah I haven't actually picked one up yet, there's a couple decent choices on AMZ and I've also seen something I could use at a local H/W store (similar to Lowes). I'm SURE they're all WELL below 10 amps. Probably below 5. Tapping into switched power is a bigger challenge than I expected s'all.

I'm looking to tap 12V, preferable switched to mimic the accessory power & lights that comes on when you open a door and times out after you shut it down and get out. I did expect this to be SOMEWHAT of challenge... it's beginning to sound like I may have UNDER-estimated that a bit.

hhhhmm oookay... "kick panel" is I assume the LEFT-Foot Rest? (kinda looks like an over-sized immovable gas pedal) But, newbee me, "BCM"? I got nothin'