2ndNewFordGuy

soo basically THIS? https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505490617&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micro2+Add-a-circuit&psc=1 ? in case commercial links are a no no and it gets jacked, agian it's /Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505490617&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micro2+Add-a-circuit&psc=1 with amazon dot com in front of it. ANYWAY guessing, you remove the fuse of whatever ckt you think will do, replace it with this thing then put fuse you pulled out into the back of this. The single lead coming off of it I assume to be "+/hot" which means, pardon me if this is a dumb question, but, I'll still need to locate a decent to-body/frame-ground point also? My LED strip won't light up just with this or will it? (I linked in from a different topic, I'm trying to do foot-well LED lighting) Thanks

Question. Is this now available more broadly than ebay and if so, what exactly should be my search phrase? "2017 Ford Fusion Micro2 Add-a-circuit" (or) is there a model number that might provide a narrower result?

I clicked on drolds posted-link to his post were he describes in some detail where the fusebox is and it was less than encouraging. My main takeaway was, ok, then, "plan-B" looking a lot better: how hard is to locate the "car's Violet/White wire" as I'm not at all bashful about "tapping into that"

YES I have remote start so this is potentially very helpful as well. Thanks ALL.

I replied to this but it seems to have vanished. very quick re-cap: Thank You !!. Great info on the FUSE box. ! won't repeat the 12v re-tort, mostly useless drivel anyway.

AAND and the risk of being overly chit-chatty, My '07 Focus also was bought here too, the same way. I've been over here since getting out the ARMY in 1990, and since I was offered a job in place, been here ever since. (and never got any "out-dated technologies/safety features" trash talk on the FOCUS over it's 10 year tenure either)

Fair question. Ans: I didn't. I bought it here, from "MAS" (Military Auto Sales) and had it delivered to me here. My employment agreement includes, company-paid-for shipping of 1 vehicle, back to my "home-of-record". It's wise to ensure that vehicle IS "U.S. spec", otherwise getting it registered and insured once back in the U.S may require all sorts of expensive conversions. Some people DO buy EURO-Spec, cars and ship them back, paying for the required conversions. Most who buy Euro-Spec, don't ship it back, they sell it here. My plan all along was to take mine back with me. AND Being it's a 2017 I've heard ZERO trash talk on the "out-dated technologies and safety features" front. ("thick-skin" at the ready)

New testing. No FOB in the car. Single FOB in pocket. Locked Car. With the greatest of care, passed fingertips between the handle and the car. Nah-da. BUT it IS super sensitive. The slightest 'flick' of physical contact is enough to trigger the unlock. No new evidence of car unlocking simply upon approach or being "inside" the "3-foot away" zone. No "sorta" no "pretty much the same". AKirby 100% correct. (assume no shocked faces?) My 2017 is good. Performing 100% to Spec at this time.

Then I have a serious medical condition because I was roasting. but, then again, since it's yet to happen to me outside, or in my home or ever, anywhere but that one time inside the car, I'm going with "not me". B'sides, isn't this "ambient air sensor" referred to elsewhere in this topic, the one located in the front behind the grill? (reading incoming/outside air?) you saying "ambient" doesn't mean outside the car? but as far as the over-analyzing is concerned? Wouldn't be the first time! wait... PING! SNAP-crunch-grind, you're right... There would have to be a temp sensor INSIDE (at least if only "also") otherwise, the A/C or heat, just like ur house, would never know when to stop, pause or go to low, excetra, there would be no point to setting a specific inside number of degrees. DUH. Sometimes slowly, but I get there!

I believe you. Maybe, despite specifically trying my best not to actually touch it, perhaps, once between the handle and the car, my finger tips got closer to the handle than I thought. I will test this more carefully later, but, either way, if reaching between handle and car = grabbing the handle, I'm ok with that. NOW that other thing where I'm thinking it's unlocked with my entire body still about 2 feet away? I kinda hope I can prove myself mistaken on that one.

When the outside-ambient air-temp reading was stuck on 63-64-ish and I had the desired inside temp set to 71, no, the A/C wasn't coming on. As soon as I set it one degree below what it thought it was outside, wah-la, A/C on. Ambient can mean "my surroundings" (inside) or the vehicle's surroundings, (outside) (to me). I'm assuming the temp shown on the center top of the touch screen right next to the CLOCK is referring to outside temp and climate control on "auto", heat or A/C respond according to that outside number, in contrast to, whatever temp I set the drivers side zone to. (passenger side left on 'dual') We good? TO BE CLEAR, I believe the detail contained in your old my documents text-paste accurately described what my car is doing. now anyway. I'm still not sure why that outside number stuck on about 10 too low after I went well more than 20mph for well more than 90 seconds. Let's hope that was a one-time kink being worked out. (only 519 miles on it)

ok here's what happened. Leaving one FOB in the car, Used 2nd FOB to lock the car. walked away leaving the 2nd fob well out of range. Returned without fob. Still Locked out 5X5. Returned with the fob (taking note of red-led inside the door (where there used to be the lock-nob) Didn't hear the click until I put my fingers inside the door handle, (making a point NOT to actually touch the door handle). That sounds real close to what you said. But I swear I've heard it click-unlock, (one FOB only, second fob not inside car) as I was (about) breaching the 3 foot zone, but before putting my hand between handle and the car. Perhaps I am mistaken. Will watch for this more closely and get back to ya'll. For now, it seems like you AKirby, and the car, are in agreement, both are correct. There clearly is no "eye" optic/infared sensor there so it must be a heat sensor in the handle, and a combination of my hand being hot enough and the sensor being sensitive enough, it responded with about a half inch of air still between. To me this is not a bad thing..

That Sounds Like a Good idea. Will Do. So far I've yet to leave the house with both FOBS so I can't do it now. I'll do this when I get home and let you know. HOWEVER again, when I tried approaching it without the FOB it remained locked so... if that's (part of) a defect, It's not too bad to me. I mean I'd be ok with that..

To be honest, maybe skimmed. I DO recall seeing it in the features listed on my purchase order and having a fairly clear idea of what-all that involved. The topic included someone talking about always finding the car unlocked and if the FOB was always in his hand that might have been why. (I'm pretty sure my "auto-lock/unlock" feature was default-on in my settings), 's all I was sayin'.

YES, based on my experience, I believe this is very likely still valid. Thank You. Good Stuff!

Well yes, for now I can pretty much file it under "not much to complain about". My dealer situation is such that it's got to be pretty big for me to go that route. No pun. I'm over-seas with a U.S. spec car, so a trip to an authorized service center is a logistical challenge. Even IF it "comes and goes" and I have to occasionally force-tweak the climate setting to make the a/c(or heat) come on or go off, not a biggie. (as long it's correct more often than it wigs out.) hopefully I won't see it do that again at all.

Yes, that is exactly what I need to do. I just don't know how readily accessible that fuse box is since I've been too busy (ok lazy) to check the manual. I'm guessing there's more than one fuse box. My Focus had two, one (interior) under the dash and a second one, engine compartment, under the hood. Thanks man! And yeah, actually there was two different questions, ("aren't all cars made that way?" being semi-redundant.)

Thanks man! One more thing I didn't know, always welcome! The touchscreen however, (especially with the bigger one) switching from light background and dark letters, to dark background and light letters is about impossible to not notice.

That definitely sounds reasonable. However in my case it was wrong, pretty much all day, for about an hour of running around at noon, and still locked on 63 (or 64) and all the way home in the afternoon. It wasn't until the next morning when it appears for now, to have reset. Actually, I went out and checked it 2 or 3 time today, just switching on the utility power without starting the car and each case it was a match (+/- a degree or 2) to Weatherunderground temp for my area. No apparent delay. (58 at 7:45, 61 about 90 minutes later, 73 moments ago.

Credit given where credit's DUE to Merlins very well written post but... to be honest I'm not really sure what all the fussing is about. Would it be NICE if the power outlet(cig-lighter things) went OFF with the rest of what times-out after you walk away? FOR SURE. Big time. OR even better, was configurable option? Of course. Considering similar types of things that are configurable nowdays thanks to the more and more advanced onboard computers, does seem like an obvious oversight? Yes. BUT, all that said, I still don't really see the huge shock here. Haven't pretty much ALL CARS (12V outlets) been wired like this since the dawn of the car-cigarette lighter? I've had over 10 cars since my first, a (67 Monaco) and have a pretty clear memory of every one popping out that glowing orange lighter, keys or no keys. NOW if a lot of manufacturers stopped making them that way sometime in the past 7 or 8 years I wouldn't know, and I apologize to all in advance for the stupid question.

One easy way to find out, plug one of those "usb-charger" stubs (most have an led to show if they're on) plug it into the outlet, (one that you can SEE from out-side through the window), approach the car the next morning, (just to be certain WITHOUT the FOB near or in the car) and if that USB stub LED is lit, you can safely assume it's NOT going off "after a while". I've put some thought into this myself because I'm looking to add ambient led lighting to the FOOTWELLS in mine and I'm trying to figure out the best place to tap the 12v from. The 12v outlets are the EASIEST tap but I've kind of ruled them OUT because I'm pretty sure they'd leave (whatever's plugged in, on 24/7. LED lights are very low drain but over time... probably an undesirable drag... and putting a switch on the cord or (worse) pulling the plug in and out to on-off the lights, kinda take all the FUN out it...

Sounds about right, similarly the 19mm hex are pretty likely 12mm thread. Besides which, the Sport has 18" wheels stock and the rest (stock) are 17', another reason I wouldn't be surprised that the studs might be different. But, that also begs the question, if I HAD ordered the optional "painted pocket" 18" on my SE would the studs have been the same or 14mm?

Mine, even if I just locked it with the fob, as long as I'm standing there with the key in my hand, the second I grab the handle it unlocks, (USUALLY as I'm approaching). Just to be certain mine wasn't similarly malfunctioning, I tested it just now, locked it w/fob, left the fob inside went back out grabbed the drivers door handle, locked. Came back with the FOB in my hand, I heard it click as I approached the car. (never touched the unlock on the FOB) door now opened.

Moved entire reply "up top". I mistakenly "quoted" Akirby, NOT intending to challenge his conclusion at all. Option to delete post would have been useful.

I'm only on my second tank of gas, no accidents, car is still perfect except.... for the first couple weeks the ambient air temp appeared to be accurate (enough), but yesterday it appeared to be stuck at 63 all day when I know, most of the day anyway it was WAY warmer (like 8 or 9F) than that. It was quite warm in the car and the only way to kick the A/C on was set the inside-ask to "62" (worked like a charm, sure,) but... ya know..? I just went outside and checked it and at the moment it seems back on track. So I guess my question is, is this sort of "intermittent inaccuracy" normal and just something I have to get used to or... something I should worry more about?