2ndNewFordGuy

they must have fixed this. I already topped my reservoir off and don't recall any such issue. (2017)

my question would be, at roughly $600 for the tune, + the higher price for the 93 octane, for an mpg gain of say, 22 to 24, how many miles would that take to surpass break-even and actually be saving money on gas? (assuming you were doing this solely for MPG and didn't really care about the HP?)

AAAAAAnd I DID have a STEEDA intake on the Focus so it was a bit better than "stock-zippy" (also Eibach Pro's and Ford racing dampers)

yeah I know that well.... I was actually more concerned with MPG than zip, and based on the published numbers the 1.5 was significantly better MPG. BUT, Now that HAVE IT and played with it a little, I can't help but wonder... if I put the same amount of effort into "feather-footing" the 2.0 would it REALLY BE that much less efficient? OR, would it, best-mpg-case-scenario, be ABOUT the same and the only REAL difference be, when I DID decide to STOMP ON IT? (and of course the $900 higher price)

My biggest WTF was the "Luxury package" (if not the "technology package") REALLY should have included "ambient lighting" ("warm interior accents" ARE SO NOT the same thing, NOT TO IMPLY anyone told me they were) To be honest I'm not really sure wtf they're talking about with "warm interior accents" I just know what they ARE NOT. I'm going to light my foot-wells, and doing so and having it NOT look tacky is going to be a JOB. I'd LIKE to have them come on with all the other lights that come on when you open or close a door and then go off automatically. But I may have to settle for a manually switched LEAD tapping off the center console 12 volt cig-lighter outlet. Removable REAR deck would have been super sweet.

What I parted with was a 2007 Focus SES. Biggest miss is PARKING. By comparison the Focus was WAY easier to park. Second is pep. HP to curb-weight ratio, the Focus had more pep, and too-boot, it "had it" at much better MPG. I could kick it and STILL GET 29mpg around-town. NOW WHILE I CAN get about 95% of the same "pep" from the Fusion, if you ask that of it, as someone else here rightly pointed out, it will suck gas "through a fire hose". NOW supposedly the "combined-city-HWY" MPG is only a mile or two-per gallon less than my Focus was getting, BUT apparently it REALLY NEEDS that prolonged HIGHWAY trip to achieve that, because, so far, city-only driving, it's not even close to the Focus. (21.6 vs 28). and that's with constant effort to feather-foot it. NOW I'm still only on my 2nd full tank of gas so I'm still over-coming what must have been some serious lead-footing on the part of the dealer before I took it over. It's still "ticking-up" every 15 miles or so.... The next big miss, cleaning the inside of the BACK WINDOW. The Focus was a hatch so keeping that glass clean couldn't have been easier. The Fusion's a backbreaker. And I'm TALL with long arms! How someone say 5'9" would do it.... think, "rag-on-a-stick" sitchu. DON'T MISS the way the tailgate used to (often) bounce and "half-latch" when I tried to close it. Don't Miss, FIT. being over 6-1 I fit just ok in the Focus, (required 2-tick seat-reline in order to get far enough away from the steering wheel). I fit FINE the Fusion. #1 biggest "PSYCHE"? When I first saw the 3 "latch covers" lined up along the inside/near-side of the back deck, I thought "WOO-HOO"!! Check IT OUT! THE BACK DECK COMES OUT!! THAT'S GOING TO MAKE CHANGING OUT THE BACK-DECK SPEAKERS WET-DREAM EASY!! Imagine my disappointment in discovering those were in fact only, BABY-SEAT-ANCHORS. I was SOOOO bummed. OVER ALL HOWEVER, I'm ecstatically happy with my Fusion.

@ rcbridge: you had 2012? did something happen to it or is 5 years your normal turn-around? (too rich for my blood) my upgrade was from an '07 Focus. 10 years is good for me. With proper babying I hope to get well more than 10 years out this Fusion.

I recently took delivery of same. (2017 SE with the "11 speaker premium" audio) and while not exactly wowed I'm not too bothered either. But, I've got pretty bad tinnitus too so my advice may be of less use for those with younger ears. OK THAT SAID, this is how I get the most out mine. Speakers are all still stock for now but that may change. I run almost exclusively 320bit mp3's off the USB. Mode is set for "ALL SEATS" NOT "driver only" (tried that hated it) ALL SEATS MUCH better. EQ: Treble is pinned, (10 of 1-10), bass is "8" and mid range, center mass. (a 5) and, this may be key too, I don't push it. In part because of my tinnitus, but I find keeping the volume between 12 and 15 the sound is pretty lush. Keeping the level at (about) 50% power seems (to my messed up ears), to put the (somewhat modest) speakers in their "sweet-spot". The old audiophile axiom that all amps are in their "sweet-spot " at 50% seems to apply well to this system. For those looking to really "rock the casbah" I think the amp may have it but speaker upgrades might be well advised. (I'd do the REAR DECK AND the front doors) I may do just the rear deck myself, because of the easy access, and 2.) I already have a really nice set of 3-way PIO's. I'd do the front doors too but, I already looked at a YOUTube video and that's too much work for me, and... with my ears, I just can't see caring THAT much. Clarification, YES I have tinnitus, but my frequency-range sensitivity is still excellent. I just don't tolerate loud very well. Correction: Upon further playing with it, I'm now fine with "DRIVER vs ALL SEATS" setting. DRIVER does require changing the balance and fade. And stop me if I'm wrong, but I swear DRIVER produces a little more bass.

thanks again.

Thank you for your input. I decided the other topic was a stupid question and requested deletion. If there's a way for the creator of a topic to delete it, I couldn't find it. Didn't notice you had replied there too.

MODERATOR: PLEASE DELETE THIS TOPIC. IT WAS A STUPID QUESTION.

Majority rules, and, majority is correct. I said I was going to do my own specific research on K&N and turbo damage and the hits I got were more than sufficiently convincing. MAYBE,there MIGHT be some non-turbo engines, running in a mostly clean environment that can handle the K&N and even benefit slightly. My 2007 Duratec had a Steeda "OCG" short ram for almost ALL of it's 60k+ miles, (not even re-oiled the last 3 times I cleaned it) and never seemed to care.... But, in as far as K&N and a turbo charged engine is concerned, there's NO question. BAD IDEA. I'm now convinced my best/SAFEST plan of attack, for MAX-FLOW with MAX-protection, is to simply over-change the FACTORY filter, say every 5k miles or once a year, which ever happens first, even if it "looks" fine. If the filters were expensive maybe I'd re-think that, but I just checked good ol' Rockauto and the FORD MOTORCRAFT FA1912 is only 11 freakin' dollars! ($7 shipping for up to 6 filters, $5 for 1) at that price I can easily afford to give it a new one every 5k miles or once a year. "Solved" credit will go to WALDO Since he was the first-responder to say it. BOV was already a dead issue. Sound was ALL it was and not particularly impressive in that, leaving NO reason. Still kind of on the fence about the OIL FILTER tho... since it's not passing it's "dirt" on to delicate turbo parts...

so.... what's the consensus here? does EVERYONE agree the K&N (full CAI) is too porous and WILL definitely, over time, cause real damage to the turbo? No variable for maybe you live somewhere that maybe there isn't that much dirt/grit in the air? (like in or near a desert or the beach?, or if you pretty much NEVER drive on dirt roads? Third, is the same equally true of the K&N (or ANY other brand of) "high-flow" OEM filter element replacement? (vs the CAI). What about Steeda? No better? And while we're on the subject of "high flow", is there any similar issues with the OIL filters? My brother, who fancies himself a bit of a gear-head, speculated that the high-flow oil filters might be problematic if the computer and/or pump is expecting a certain degree of BACK PRESSURE and doesn't get it.

THAT is a fair question. Two reasons. the MAIN one being, I'm retiring in the next few years and plan to ship the car back to the U.S. when I do. The Mondeo is nice, but I'd have sell it and take a pretty big hit selling 3-4 year old car. Secondly (or third depending on how you count), Even with the strong-at-the-moment dollar, and saving the over-seas shipping off (I'll pay on the Fusion) AND getting the Italian "VAT" tax off, it's STILL a more costly buy for the euro-priced car over all. I checked it out. I didn't look at a Mondeo specifically but I looked at similarly equipped Honda, I assume the Ford would be similar, a friend of mine here just DID that with Euro-Fiesta and I know what he paid and how it was equipped. But the main reason is I plan on bringing it back with me. When I buy new it's ALWAYS with the intention of getting MINIMUM 10 years out of it. (Plus the euro-Hondas won't be getting the new turbos until 2018)

yo, you're right, listing several pro's and no cons might lead one to believe I'm leaning toward one. my bad. in truth I'm leaning more and more away from the BOV. One big CON (besides the obvious non-performance factor) is from what I heard on that guys vid I actually (and I did say this) did not really like the sound it made. BASED on the best one could discern from (most likely) smart-phone vid grade audio that is... at this point my interest in the BOV is fading.

2014 and the guy never posted back..... hmmmmmm......

also a good case made for doing mods one at a time. I'll be following this. I was thinking of a TUNE for my 2017 Fusion, but I can't pass inspection with a CEL on. one that's supposed to go away on it's own after few drive cycles? Problem with that is something that goes away on it's own could (possibly) recur ON IT'S own.

@ drolds1; Thanks and I will indeed check out your vid and take your undoubtedly sound counsel to heart, However, one thing you should know is I'm overseas. I'm buying through military car sales (MAS) and having the car delivered overseas. My access here in Italy to warranty/service will be sparse to none. The local Italian Ford dealer has a rep for not being friendly to Americans or US-SPEC vehicles. And the on-base AAFES garage is not Authorized Ford Service either, SO IT'S going to be pretty much ON ME to take the best care I can OF this vehicle and SEE TO IT that it never NEEDS warranty or servicing, beyond what I can/or/need to do myself at the on-base Auto Skills Center with the help of ASE certified mechanics. (WHICH IS why, I'M HERE first and not buying stuff off Amazon based 75% fake-reviews and slapping it on.) My 2007 Focus had nothing but that and remains in mint condition. Never needed anything I couldn't handle. I intend to proceed cautiously and be conservative with any mods I do apply. Nothing envelope-pushing. ALSO, anyway, isn't there a law, (may vary by state) that requires the dealer, before denying warranty service, to PROVE a particular MOD did, or at least COULD HAVE caused whatever now needs fixing? They can't just say "oh look! You have a CAI!, We're not replacing the tailgate wiring harness" That's also (warranty issues) the reason I decided against another FOCUS. TRANNY ISSUES. (Particularly the "pseudo-auto") I've really researched this car and it's solid. If well cared for and not abused it stands an excellent chance of never needing any warranty-service.

oh, yeah, and, down the road, the custom-tune is totally on the table as well. I may look for a little guidance from y'all on getting a decent one, hopefully in the sub $300 range. I've sorta nosed around already and there's quite a few, ranging from $60 to over $400, clearly not all created equal....

thanks y'all. Right now I'm leaning towards, just replacing the stock air filter with the K&N, and the oil filter too, with either K&N or Royal Purple. The BOV I'm mostly neutral on. Pro's include, the price, ease of install, and no evidence (as yet) it will do any HARM. I've been on a lot of boards, (full disclosure, to include counting some amazon-reviewer-yuks) and/but this is the first I've heard about K&N stuff actually doing damage. Coming from the guys that have DONE K&N the praise is pretty consistently unanimous. But now I will actually try and seek out criticism ref K&N. Personal experience; when I put the Steeda Short Ram on my 07 Focus there was a small but noticeable, (maybe like 3 - 6%) uptick in mpg and/or 'ass', depending on hard I pushed it, (you got one or the other) But, admittedly, that Duratec was a totally different animal from the current EB. Also I only re-oiled the filter after very first time I washed it. After that I just said screwit, washed dried and slapped it back on. 10 years and almost 70k miles later the engine has never shown any signs of having a problem with that. NOW THAT SAID a recent "deep-clean" fuel-system clean, with the more expensive crap you're supposed to run through on as close to an empty tank as possible, while it didn't blow visible smoke, the after-effect performance change was VERY noticeable. Perhaps that's the K&N take-away. If you're going to use something that might be guilty of letting a little more dirt get through, compensate by being a little more religious with the fuel-system cleaner additives....? Lastly 1.5 v 2.0. At 60+ now I'm significantly more interested MPG over performance. (1), and 2.) Looking as FORD's Fusion Engine-spec sheet with all the possible engines & tranny's, It sure looks to me like the 1.5 best hits the sweet-spot balancing MPG with HP. (seen in this side-by-side chart) http://www.ford.ca/cars/fusion/specifications/engine/ (You would not believe how hard this chart is to find). (Thank You Ford CANADA) AND LAST but not least. I'm cheep. To get the 2.0 is a SIGNIFICANT price bump (like about $3k) over the 1.5, I'd rather put the money into leather and the 11 speaker Premium Audio Getting back to the MODS I also DO plan on, before making ANY mods, running out (at least) several tank-fulls and getting specific numbers on MPG, and some "feel" for the as-is performance. So I'll have some basis of comparison, whether I do just the filter elements or full CAI. Thanks to all

and yeah, I DID find the BOV adapters thread over on the Fusion Sport forum here. Kind of surprising how NOT enticing the audio from the video the guy posted there was. Just sounded like a hissing noise. I got a way better sound from the Steeda short ram I put on my 07 Focus. good FYI.txt

see attached txt file Good FYI I think...

I'm ordering now, a 2017 Fusion SE with the 1.5 lt Ecoboost. I was/am planning on doing either a K&N CAI (or Steeda short ram) intake. But, I've also heard good things about an aftermarket "BLOW-OFF Valve". MY MAIN question is, if done together, is the benefit of each cumulative? Meaning, is there any LESS point in doing one if you've already done the other? ALSO is it safe to assume any part listed as for a 2016 1.5lt EB will be compatible on a 2017 1.5lt EB? (as K&N doesn't list a CAI for the 2017 yet but they do for the 2016) Also, someone on another thread here made a strong case for, "save your money" and, rather than CAI, just replace the filter element with a high-flow K&N filter as the factory intake was already built to "ram" the intake, BUT, he was I believe referring to the Fusion SPORT ecoboost. Would the same be apply to the 1.5? Also, what do you guys think about the BLOW-OFF valve replacement (in general) since I've NEVER seen it talked about here, (at least not on a FUSION page) total BS or not? Sorry for the convoluted multiple-question question, and hopefully I'm at least asking on the correct thread... Thanks in advance.