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Haha yeah, 6 million would be like the price of a new EV today, not a ni-cad relic, and the 6'M' is an old habit from my printing days, 6M=6,000.

we have a 2010 FFH with 135,000 miles on it now, got it used for $6M in 2017 with around 85M miles and have only done tires, brakes front and back (although the fronts did not need to be replaced) and the B1S1 O2 sensor and throttle body. Oil changes around every 3500-4000 miles with full synthetic, I have run flats on it since this is pretty rural here and I don't want the Mrs. to worry about tires. It is the best running, most reliable vehicle i have owned in 60 years of car ownership, and still gets 36mph or better consistently even though it is now a 14 year old car. I just did a rebalance (autel md808) on the HV battery yesterday, and all 28 groups are within .04 volts of each other when completed, showing again how good these battery packs are even after years of extreme heat and cold. I know it won't last forever, but these are really great cars imo.

i just today got the letter about the age fix for the BCM, pretty funny since i did this fix easily 3 or 4 years ago. weird too that i got the driver side air bag recall friday, so all of a sudden ford really wants to finally fix my almost 13 year old car. my question is should i have them do the fix anyway? it says the pcm also gets an update, anyone know what exactly is updated? will i get a hard time from them since my BCM probably says it is only 2 or 5 years old (pretty sure i put it back to zero)? Ford really screwed this up, to finally own up to this 12 years after they deliberately under rated the battery. no doubt thousands of people who bought these things gave up thinking they had to replace the HV battery. they accept no responsibllity. Allen saved probably dozens/hundreds of these cars with the fix he discovered over 4 years agp, so Ford really screwed up IMO and are getting away with it.

we bought ours used in 2017 at around 90,000 miles. it was getting around 35-36 then, until 2019 when the computer decided to negate battery participation-allen's fix applied and it's in the high 30's most of the time, not bad for an 11 year old 3700 lb.car with 122m on the clock.we just drive, we generally do not hyper-mile. occasionally see tanks close to 40. great car.

the rebalance done by the autel ms808 takes about 45 minutes and has to be done between the temps of 60F and 102F. if during the test the battery temp monitor reads temps outside these numbers, the test will stop. As Loder said, the vehicle will periodically do this on it's own although it is infrequent and I suspect unless the vehicle is driven in excess of 45 minutes it will not complete. the scanner itself is about $200 so it is not crazy expensive. I use it for most newer cars as it does some two way communication and really scans virtually all modules and does some things that less expensive units won't do. I did the 'Allen' fix (he should forever get credit for this) about 2 years ago, and recently replaced the throttle body and S1B1 O2 sensor so I did the rebalance to complete the 'tune-up' and have been hovering around 38 MPG since. I'm now at 122,000 on my 2010 hybrid, and it doesn't leak a drop of fluid, runs great and I will drive it until the wheels fall off.

Glad it helped, i also wrote the same thing but somehow it ended up 'MikeFusionH' on an older reply, don't know how that happened since I don't remember ever using that name but I am getting old...the problem has nothing to do with the cleanliness of the TB, it is the electronics that go through heat soak over the years. Ford recalled hundreds of thousands of this TB in numerous models and years but excluded the FFH even though it is the EXACT part number. Like the fix Allen discovered 3-4 years ago concerning the 'date' the ECU thinks the HVB is, there is a wealth of information on this site that makes owing one of these less daunting. Your average repair shop will have no clue how to diagnose this platform concerning driveline issues, so you will get better answers here in almost any situation. I will even include the dealers as they treat this like some stepchild when it is taken if for issues.

it is the throttle body, get one off amazon for about 70 bucks with gasket it is a 15 minute swap. i had the same issue and tried cleaning mine which did not work-it has nothing to do with the cleanlyness of the unit, the electronics under the black plastic side piece is the issue, you need to replace the entire TB since Ford does not sell this part individually,. it was a recalled part but Ford did not include the hybrid since they were not high production models. believe it, this is the issue.

first thing i check is always the caliper slider pins to make certain they are free to move. I removed the caliper bracket and cleaned it up with a bench grinder wire brush, seems to be free now. Sorry to learn of your loss Vanore Tn

our 2010 fusion hybrid now has 119,000 miles we bought it in 2017 with about 90,000 miles. shortly after buying it in '17 i replaced the rear brakes as they were low and made some noise...fast forward to this week, my wife who usually drive it said she started to hear the rears making noise again. i pulled the wheels and sure enough, the outer pad on the driver side was down to the metal at the top of the pad and it left a small swipe on the rotor. i removed the rotors and replaced them with new along with new pads. i cleaned up the brackets, installed new anti-rattle clips and tried to get the pads into the slots but they were so tight i ended up grinding the ears some on all the pads so the fit would not be so tight. even after doing this, the driver side still seems to have some drag, and the pistons were turned back in as far as i could get them. anyone have any idea why this is so?-i'm a little surprised that the rears seem to go so fast on these, the fronts still have probably 40-50% material and the rotors are pristine. I have no way of knowing if they are original pads up front, but have seen others on here over the years claim to get 140-150 thousand miles on a set of fronts. does anyone have any theories or history of how often rear pads get replaced on this particular model? thanks in advance.

i had removed the sensor and tried cleaning it with MAF cleaner, but that didn't work even though it looked as new, and started looking into finding a bosch unit, but saw such a wide variation in prices that i figured i'd look again at what other options that might work...although the car runs and performs like it always had, getting 36-37 mpg average consistently tank to tank, i wanted to eliminate the CEL i kept getting basically every other time i started the car. so i found a post by someone who did this-he soaked the O2 sensor (not the wiring/connector, just the sensor itself) in gasoline overnight, occasionally shaking the sensor so that the gas would work into the holes that circle the sensor. even though i thought it was pretty clean and felt this was one of those 'how can it hurt?' kind of things, on checking the sensor the next morning was surprised to see that the gas went from being crystal clear to having a grayish tint with what looked to be fine dark particles suspended in the mixture. i dried it off with a microfiber towel, then blew it dry with my air compressor. that was about 1500 miles ago now, and no more codes, am getting slightly better mileage the past two tanks (from 37 to 38/39) and it might be my imagination or wishful thinking but it does seem somewhat smoother too. not getting the CEL relieves me of the worry that i might damage the engine or cat, and the minor increase in gas mileage convinces me that this cleaning method produces positive results. saving $100 to $175 doesn't hurt either as i am on a very fixed income and at my age (68) the money not spent could go to better things, like EXPENSIVE GAS and INFLATION now that we are all woke or something. some times you gotta do what you gotta do, hopefully this will help out someone else. it might be worth a try for someone in a similar situation like myself and in my case it worked. i will add that the permanent code i was getting (P0130) has cleared itself which indicates that this is a workable solution. you cannot clear a 'permanent' code unless the problem has been fixed and it takes numerous starts without the code for this to clear itself, there is no other way to reset a permanent code the problem has to be corrected and verified by the ECM.

does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the B1S1 sensor for a 2010 fusion Hybrid (117,000 miles)? Getting the P0130 and removed it, cleaned it up but could not find any markings/written information on it, so I cleaned it up good with mass air flow cleaner and reinstalled it. Did make it better, can drive it a few times now before the CEL comes back on, prior to this virtually every second start I'd get the 0130, and we are getting 36-38 mpg so it seems to run well. The upstream sensor is more important than the downstream, so I want to just replace it with an OEM unit. Information is greatly appreciated

on a Autel MS 808 scanner there is a function for battery-with it plugged in and matched to the vin, you go into battery rebalance (battery has to be between 60 and 104 degrees I think) you have to run the car at idle while the computer rebalances the batteries-it takes about 45 minutes, and I sat through three different Hybrid Fords doing this before I changed the year to '1' using Forscan (after the rebalance)- they are all like new now, dramatically better than before.

Wanted to add that I did just do the neighbor's Hybrids (a 2010 Fusion with 75.000 and a 2011 Lincoln MKZ with 88,000 miles) and he and his wife and daughter are thrilled that they both are like they were when he first got them. I used the Autel MS808 to do a rebalance first, then reset the HVB to year 1-The forscan software has only a two month license and I had a hard time getting it activated the first go around, so I will do this fix for anyone in the SE Pennsylvania area as long as it is active-contact me and we'll arrange to meet, the rebalance takes at least a half hour and in the instances I have done it more like 45 plus minutes. Actually changing the value from 'error' to 1 takes less than 10 minutes.

I want to express my appreciation to Allen84 for posting this-my wife's 2010 FFH was getting progressively worse when going into EV, even on level ground-mileage was hovering around 30 mpg, and at 108,000 miles I was looking into replacing the HVB, but after applying this work around, it's getting north of 37 mpg with the same type of driving. What a difference! Before applying this, I did a rebalance using my Autel MS808 , so I can't imagine there is much more could be done to improve how this runs short of replacing the HVB. I have a friend who is a sales manager of a large Ford dealer and I spoke with him about this-he got me on the phone with the service manager who was unaware this was happening to vehicles approaching 10 years of age. Although I did not want to take it to a dealership for this fix, he told me if I couldn't do this myself he'd look into having it done there. Now I don't have to, and my neighbor, who has a 2010 Fusion Hybrid and a 2011 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid wants me to do his cars too. If you have one of these cars you need to look into doing this, makes it run as intended, and I'm sure we'll get more years out of this car now, it's fun to drive again so follow these instructions, you'll love it! Thanks again, Allen, great post!

I want to express my appreciation to Allen84 for posting this-my wife's 2010 FFH was getting progressively worse when going into EV, even on level ground-mileage was hovering around 30 mpg, and at 108,000 miles I was looking into replacing the HVB, but after applying this work around, it's getting north of 37 mpg with the same type of driving. What a difference! I have a friend who is a sales manager of a large Ford dealer and I spoke with him about this-he got me on the phone with the service manager who was unaware this was happening to vehicles approaching 10 years of age. Although I did not want to take it to a dealership for this fix, he told me if I couldn't do this myself he'd look into having it done there. Now I don't have to, and my neighbor, who has a 2010 Fusion Hybrid and a 2011 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid wants me to do his cars too. If you have one of these cars you need to look into doing this, makes it run as intended, and I'm sure we'll get more years out of this car now, it's fun to drive again so follow these instructions, you'll love it! Thanks again, Allen, great post!

it is not a hard modification to install a 96R in place of the weak 390 amp original battery.. A 96R is around 600 CCA, which when you consider how hard the conventional battery has to work on these cars, 390 CCA is pathetic. It took me about an hour to modify the battery tray to accept the 96R, it is a great upgrade.

I did the LV battery upgrade someone else posted on here the day after I got my 2010 Hybrid (Jan 19, 2017)-it had what appeared to be the original battery (390 cca Motorcraft). I got a 96R battery at Advance Auto for $100, plugged a power pack into the power port to maintain all the computer/radio settings, and removed the battery and battery tray, easy to do. Then I used a bench grinder to remove the parts of the tray so that the slightly larger 96R would sit properly in the tray, and used two large, heavy duty zip ties to secure it to the bolted down battery tray. The new battery is 590 CCA, and since it is new it consistently tests out at 750+CCA using my Harbor Freight digital battery load tester. This is an easy upgrade that takes no more than 30 to 40 minutes to do. I was surprised when I saw this car came with a 390 CCA battery since you have to consider there are a lot of electrical loads on this car-lots of interior lights and head lights that have delay functions alone make a 390 CCA battery strain over years of use. I have battery packs that are close to 400 CCA's so it makes sense to do whatever you can to improve it just for dependability.

I bought a 2010 hybrid for my wife who makes a 32 mile round trip commute in the city, and am amazed by how great this car is-comfortable, good power, nice features and incredible gas mileage. Unfortunately it did not have any of the owners manual materials in the glove box (but did have all service records and receipts), so I found this thread and found the door keypad code, thanks for this help. I found a complete set of manuals and other included pulblications that came with the car originally on ebay for $14. so next will be a shop manual since I do all my own work. I'm happy to have such a great car in my rather large stable of drivers (eight!), and look forward to many years of actually SAVING money on gas!