snopro879

Not sure if anyone is interested in this any longer, and I hate adding onto a 1.5 gen Fusion topic discussing the actual 1st gen electronics from 06-09. Just wanted to let you all know I got the autolamps working on my '09 Fusion SE that was never equipped with that feature. After all my wiring it was the SJB that was preventing them from working. I'll try and be brief below with everything I did to get mine working: Step 1 - find a good u-pull junk yard in your area. This was the most important part of my little project getting autolamps in my SE. (also made this whole project <$100) Step 2 - find a Fusion there and purchase the headlamp switch (with the autolamp feature), the pigtail harness/connector from this switch would be a plus, a SJB from a Fusion (see note below) with autolamps, pigtail harness/connector from the narrow grey connector in the middle of the SJB, and lastly the grille including the sunload sensor (and connector/pigtail is a MUST) at the defrost area from a Fusion...and you guessed it, with autolamps. NOTE: I do not know which SJBs are interchangeable. Find a junkyard that gives you a warranty on pulled parts so that if it doesn't work you can swap it out with another one later. I found a loaded SEL that was the same year as my 1st gen because I was worried about my SYNC not working as it's a one year only thing for the electronics in the 1st gen. Luckily it was plug and play in my base model 5 speed SE... 2nd NOTE: The junkyard SJB caused a low tire pressure warning. This is the ONLY issue I've ran into (so far). You can get the tool to relearn the sensors off Amazon for less than $15. I relearned mine and have zero issues now. Step 3 - The sun load sensor (for manual climate control) only needs two wires - one goes to the SJB and one goes to ground. The autolamp headlamp switch needs one additional wire that goes to the SJB. All in all you will need two additional pins for the SJB (from your junkyard pigtail) and one for the autolamp connector. While you're at that junkyard snip a few feet of wire for each of these that will need to be ran. Step 4 - Pull the stock grille from your defrost area. The hardest part for me was sneaking the wires up here to down near the pedals to the SJB. I used a piece of weedwhip cord to snake down and once I found it under the drivers side dash I taped my jumper wires from the sunload sensor to it and pulled them down. Splice in the wires to the sunload sensor connector pigtail and splice the signal wire to the pin that will be inserted into the grey SJB connector. The sunload sensor ground can be connected to any body ground. I used the stud that holds the SJB. You've now wired in the sunload sensor portion (this is the most difficult part). Step 5 - Do the same above but for the autolamp headlamp switch. Replace the switch with the one you pulled from the junkyard and use a pin from the same pigtail to insert into your stock connector and splice a wire also going to the same grey SJB connector. Step 6 - replace the SJB in your car that likely will not have an autolamp feature. Mine did not. As mentioned in the notes above, the SJB I got from my u-pull yard caused a low tire pressure dash fault that I resolved by relearning the TPMS with a tool I happened to already have. But, I got it off Amazon for super cheap (EL 50449) I didn't include any pin numbers for the connectors above because I don't know if they changed these throughout the 1st gen years. I'd assume they're all the same but I don't want to post any incorrect information. I'm assuming the wiring diagrams can be found online pretty easy, and I simply bought a ford wiring manual off eBay for like $15 when I first picked up the car. However, from memory, pin 9 at the headlamp switch needs to go to pin 19 at the grey SJB connector, and the sunload sensor signal wire connects to pin 13 at the grey SJB connector. If anyone is struggling with this let let me know and I'll take some photos. You can program the delay for the autolamps as well, so they stay on a certain amount of time after turning the ignition off. All you do is get in the car with the key off, headlamp switch already in auto. Turn the headlamp switch to off and turn the ignition on, then back off again. Turn the headlamp switch to auto and leave it in auto for only as long as you'd like them to say on for after the ignition is turned off - then simply turn the headlamp switch back to off as well as the ignition switch. Done. In my case, I barely blipped the headlamp switch from off to auto to off again, and now when I turn my key off with the switch in auto, my headlights turn off instantly. When I first installed my junkyard SJB they would stay on for about 20 seconds. Depends on your taste. Good luck to anyone who wants to tackle this. My next project is the ambient lighting which looks really easy. Already have heated mirrors with puddle lights installed. Not sure what other fun options were available on these cars. I thought I saw an Audiophile section in my wiring manual so I kind of want to explore what that's all about (did this swap a lot on my old Focus's). Cheers!

So I've been flowing this conversation but failed to follow it to the end. I too have an 09 SE and ran the signal wire from the light switch to the SJB, and also the sun load sensor signal and ground (just body grounded it). When I switch it to auto it acts like you unplugged the connector at the headlight switch, which after a few seconds turns on all the lights and leaves them on. Assuming this is a safety thing. Anyone know if a dealer could flash the SJB to accept the autolamp feature/function? My fusion is a 5 speed manual so I don't think I could even find a SJB with autolamps from a donor car to try and swap. Plus I think it would need to be flashed/programmed regardless.

" The pedal should physically return fully immediately after you take your foot off it, but you might feel a dead zone in the pedal while the master cylinder returns if you happen to press it again a short time later. " Yes, I definitely feel a dead zone. I've just never driven a manual before that exhibited this. Between the early model escorts, focuses, even 5 speed trucks (both Ford and Dodge) that I've owned, I've never had a clutch pedal with a dead spot upon applying and releasing back to back. And to have the brake pedal do the same thing (though I don't feel a dead spot really) kind of worries me. My 2004 PZEV Focus has a cheapo Duralast slave in it (leaking on my carpet when I bought the car) and it I can pump that thing as fast as I physically can and the pedal never leaves my foot. I checked the brake fluid level when I was inspecting the Fusion upon purchase. I'll revisit the reservoir to make sure it's full, even though I think that low fluid in the reservoir would lead to a spongy pedal, not a...lazy one. It's also supposed to be nearly 50 degrees this Thursday so I'll drive it and see if the temperature had anything to do with it. At 100k miles, I don't see how a brake fluid flush could do any harm. Maybe I'll attempt that, along with bleeding the clutch system, and report back if it had any effects. Thanks for the reply!

Hello! So I just picked up a 2010 Fusion with 100k miles on it, 2.5L engine, and 6 speed manual. I love the car so far but have noticed one strange issue... The clutch felt kind of...stiff, right off the bat. I figured eh, with 100k miles it might need a new clutch in near future, no big deal. But then I also noticed that when I let off the clutch pedal quickly, it feels like it's slow to actually return. This is the newest car I've ever owned, so I kinda guessed maybe it was some like anti-dump-able clutch valving in the slave cylinder or something that would control/slow down clutch engagement. But then, I noticed a weird thump noise when letting off the brakes at times. I realized the brake pedal is also slow to return, and that the thump is the pedal hitting the stop upon it's return with my foot completely off the pedal. But, the brakes do not feel stiff at all like my interpretation of the clutch pedal when depressing. SO! I've done a couple searches and have come up with nothing. Also seems that a 2010 fusion with a stick is a rarity. So here I am, asking for any help that might be available. My mechanically inclined mind is thinking something with the brake booster might be causing this issue? If it was brake fluid related I would imagine there would be other brake related problems, and besides the pedal return being slow, the brakes feel spot on. The vacuum booster is the only other component that I can think of that relates to both the brakes and clutch. Unless the pedal mechanism itself is somehow messed up? But I can't logically think of anything with the pedal mechanism that makes any sense for the symptom...unless they share a return mechanism of some sort which I doubt. The weather here has had highs in the single digits, so I could understand a little bit different feeling, but not this drastic. Any tips or related fixes would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you so much! -Corey-