NewNole2001

Damn dude, you asked a question, I gave an answer. "thanks" is how you pronounce that word you were looking for. And yes, I've seen plenty of trained mechanics do just this type thing, whether pulling the throttle cable from the engine compartment or having an assistant or customer press the pedal while the mechanic listens to the noises being made to diagnose the problem. And if you're that worried about the computer popping the car in to gear, then take the front wheels off the ground... problem solved.

Have someone press the throttle pedal all the way to the floor with the car in park and the ignition on.

I would have canceled the order. The $500 deposit I put down is refundable. Luckily I had/have an awesome dealer. They're honest, gave me updates and humored my incessant itch to find out where my car was. Anybody who wants to talk to them can give me a PM for their name. (I've mentioned them before.) I keep hearing the horror stories people tell of their dealers, and have a few of my own from Tallahassee Ford here in Tallahassee (Don't ever buy a car or take your car for service there.), but I willingly drive 45 minutes and cross over to Georgia to get honest service (both pre-sale and post-sale). Guys just remember, money talks, especially when it walks.

I've read that it reduces aerodynamic drag.

Been there done that... When the computer turns the engine off (it won't let you fully run out of gas), you will coast to a stop. After you power cycle the car you can then coast along for about a mile. You will be able to go about 20 at first, but eventually walking speed will be all you can get. You will, however, constantly have to roll to a stop and power cycle the car. Eventually the car will not let you go any further and you will walk to the gas station. So there you go.

It's happened two or three times to me. I'm coming up on my 10k mile oil change. I'll be bugging the mechanic at the dealership about that.

Yeah, I slowed down to 70 at times, but the flow of traffic was generally at 80, so I had to go with the flow or risk getting rear ended.

No, I knew from previous fillups when the tank said around 0 miles to go that there was still gas left in the tank when it says 0 to E. I was always able to put about 15 - 15.5 gallons in it at that point, so I figured I could go about 60 miles more, but was planning to stop after 50 miles. I was on I-95 in South Carolina on that stretch where the only gas stations are 10-15 c per gallon more expensive, and based on the info from Travel Link I figured I could make it no problem and save about $2.50. Was wrong. Basically, I drove 99 miles after the 50 mile warning.

I drove 48 miles at between 70 and 80. I was getting about 35 mpg. I was actually a bit surprised that I didn't at least make it 50 miles. (Which would have helped since that's how far the gas station was :hysterical2: )

Yeah, Ford claims to have a 17.5 gallon tank in the car and I was only able to get 17.2 in to the car (including fuel spilled/evaporated when filling on side of road), so I don't think it was actually out of gas, just the computer wouldn't let the engine use any more gas.

I ran out of gas last month on the highway. While I walked to the nearest exit, my girlfriend drove the car on electric power for about a mile at maybe 4 mph, which was as fast as it would go. This was done by turning the key off, turning the key on, put in drive then go till the car stopped, and repeating. After about a mile of this, the car refused to go any further. Did I void the warranty on the battery? Also, I have done extensive mountain driving. When going down long downhill stretches, the regen would cause the battery charge meter to show a full battery to the point where regen would stop. Could that, which would be considered normal everyday driving for a lot of people void the battery warranty? Can I get an OBD II reader and check the codes to see if I've done anything that would void the battery warranty? Since running out of gas I've run a Vehicle Health Report and it didn't show anything. So you've got me wondering.

After 4 months and 9k miles, I checked my oil last night. It looked new. This after having been driven all the way from Florida to Maine and back, through mountains and coastal plains. I did the same drive in my old (300k miles) Accord last year and had to add oil every morning :-( I love my new FFH!

This is purely computer programming. The car is programmed to "creep" like an automatic transmission car would to make the car more "normal." The motor is only turning when you let off the brake, not pushing against the brakes.

I believe that's a typo, "tow" == "two"

It will let him take it off, my dealer had mine taken off.

I just can't see paying retail, or even invoice for a car with that many miles on it. Order a car, I did, you get exactly what you want and can negotiate a better deal. A little patience goes a loooong way.

Do we know if those of us w/Job1 software in our Nav systems will be able to get a software upgrade?

Yep, just probably best to make sure you leave it hidden in the center console where the USB plug is.

Sux man.. My car sat for five days just 160 miles from here... (Jacksonville) It happens and it sucks, but it's part of the deal. Don't worry though.. You're about to be blown away.

Yeah, I just hit 200 miles on this tank of gas and I've just passed the 3/4 tank mark.

Yeah, mine did the same thing in getting to Tallahassee.

It gets better. I live in an area with a bunch of hills which kills my gas mileage, but I've been averaging 39 mpg on this tank. I have about 1300 miles on the car so far.

Man, I'm glad I live in FL and don't have to deal w/that hehe

I actually have a really good story about my trade in value. None of my friends believe me till they see the paperwork. I ordered a 502A FFH at 30,800 which isn't an amazing deal, so I decided I would push on the trade-in. Blue book on my trade-in was $1,200 in perfect condition being sold by a dealer and $700 for a trade-in. At the age and miles of the car (312k), the condition of the car didn't really effect trade-in blue book value, which is good, since the car had multiple dents. There were no mechanical issues with the car; however. I went in to get a quote on the car, with a goal of getting about $500 and free window tinting. I was quoted $2,000 and still pressed andn got free window tinting. I was ecstatic but didn't let on to the dealer at all and when my car finally came in, I noticed on the paper that the trade-in value had actually increased to $2,300. I look at the ridiculously high trade-in as helping sweeten the purchase price by about $1,300, so I figure I now got the car for $29,500 w/a $1k trade-in, which is $350 above invoice. I won't say the dealer, but if you look around the 'Net for my posts you will know. I was extremely happy with them, and will definitely be back to them if I decide to buy another Ford.

Yep, not here in Northern FL either.