bangster

I am still learning my way around this specific manual, and I will say that there are gen 2 (2013-2016) and gen 2.5 (2017-2020) and I don't doubt for a minute this changes between them. I think that all the button actions on the key fob use the RTM (Remote Transceiver Module) in the headliner (the REMOTE features) PATS front antenna is for Push to Start. Keyless Entry rear antenna is for proximity.

A lot more parts are require to add it, clock spring, the heater module, connectors, adding pins to existing connectors, along with what you mention.

What model Fusion, and is it an Intelligent Access with remote start, the OEM Power Code add on, or an aftermarket add on (a separate fob to start, or press lock 3 times)? Does the remote have feedback on if the car is started/running? I think that extender is for the VSS add on 2 way with feedback.

I regret the 1.5, have since the second we drove it off the lot. Wife was in too much of a hurry and not willing to do much investigation. It had to be an SE at least, no more hub caps for me. It couldn't be the 2.5, too tractor like and torque lacking. I figured since the 1.5 had been around since 2014 that 3 years was enough to find any short comings. Wasn't schooled enough to know timing belt versus chain. Engine is capable enough as my wife generally drives it, and tows enough to be useful. It needs to last another 10 years at least, but that would still make it the shortest owned period for me and any cars. 3 years, 56k already, 250k if it makes it. That would be about what I average out of a car before giving up on it.

There were more 2010 Hybrids (36k over 2009 and 2010) than 2011 and 2012 combined (2011 - 11k, 2012 - 14k).

It is the design of the block, not the head gasket. On the affected ones (2014-2019) blocks there is a slot between those cylinders. New blocks do not have the slot. Once it is bad enough the block is eroded and a head gasket replacement won't help, needs a short block (I would think a long block, but...they are doing short blocks). Since mine is an Escape, it only had the 1.5 I4 GTDi from 2017-2019 (2020 gets the 1.4 I3), but I have seen 2019 Fusion letters that say 2014-2019 so 2020 must have the new block design.

Just had mine done, I haven't driven it since. They were not very forthcoming with what was done (my wife took it in). They can keep coolant circulating longer/sooner/more frequently. They can change temp that the cooling fan is demanded and speed(s). They can lower boost. There are a million things they can do to bandaid the physical issue. I have had to add more than a quart of coolant to my 2017 (with 56k miles) so far, that is about a quart more than I have ever had to add to any vehicle that wasn't 20+ years old already, or had an overflow instead of a closed system like we how have with the degas bottle.

Page 8 of your owner manual (well it actually starts on page 6, describing unique characteristics of the Hybrid version gas only vehicle) explains the non startup reason for how the engine speed isn't tied into the vehicle speed, one such way is: Why it does it when you let off the gas, I don't know, but often times the engine speed is much higher than you think it should be, and revs and goes lower when the car is still maintaining the same speed, it is an odd feeling sometimes.

Bolt pattern is a no go (you need 5x108mm (which is 5x4.25 inches)). Offset is...not ideal 2 cm less than OEM (so will stick out .75 inches more than your wheels, you can judge that). Hub bore is okay, it is larger than the hub on the car, so it will work, some might recommend or say you have to have adapters, they do make it easier to install wheels.

If you are really open to ideas, look for the 2.5 into 2.3 cars swaps, Mazdas as well (Miata, Mazda3, Escape, etc). There are some interesting build ups of the 2.3/2.5 (maybe more than the 3.0 V6). A lot of variations depending on what your end goal is (even if it is stock power with a newer/lower mileage example).

And a 2003 would be an MPV...My point being that there wasn't a 2003 Ford Fusion as we would call it.

So this is a European Fusion, or is it a 2013? 2013 and newer is EPB (electronic park brake) and if it was the park brake engaged and driving or park brake malfunction it would also put 1 of 9 or 10 different messages in the message center.

While there might be some variations (EPB or manual), the light serves 3 purposes. 1 - low on fluid (as you have checked already), can be a float issue as well (I don't know how all years handle this) 2 - parking brake in on (some mechanical systems the switch can be out of adjustment or just plain bad) 3 - other fault that needs checked out (I have never seen the brake light on for a fault that didn't include the ABS light as well, or if it sets a code that can be checked) 2013 and newer should also give a message in the message center. there is a message for low brake fluid and for check brake system. 2010-2012 has a similar message in the message center, also I think there is one for the parking brake. I don't think you need to run the setup and get vehicle details for them, but it is the sixth item in vehicle details 2006-2009 also has similar messaging in the message center, and a system check for fluid level

If it is out of warranty or they can weasel out of fixing it, they really no longer care unless it is something widespread like the DPS6 transmission. Selling parts and labor is a money maker for them, but not as much as a new vehicle. fixing customer concerns and goodwill really get them no further ahead, they know your voice means little.

There is also a Ford add on kit, it is pretty spendy and depends on where you want the ambient lighting (I think it is only the footwells and defused and focused light). While infinite color selection (or just 7 like OEM and Ford add on) is pretty easy, personally I just want the cup holders, I have tried EL wire with a flap to tuck between chrome rim and cup holder, some bright SMD RGB LEDs under the dash, but find too much too distracting, and want to focus on better courtesy lighting. I am that person that dims the instrument cluster as low as possible for vision reasons at night.

I just started a thread on my adding just the cup holders with ambient lighting. It isn't quite plug and play, but if you get the switch and entire console with the 4 LEDs for the footwell LEDs, you will also need the wiring harness from the switch, and possibly need to add wires to the connector to the switch. Currently I am not going to attempt to use the dash switch, and I am likely going to power it only when the lights are on, so I didn't really look into the switch (and the 2 donor cars for the cup holder one had the center stack already gone, the other is a biohazard and lot of broken glass and not touching it). Maybe these will help you?

ActiveX is (p)leather. When/if the time comes for another car, probably gonna jump ship from Ford unless the used ones are not that old.

https://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams-database/ create a free account.

https://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams-database/ create a free account. Search 2010, 2011, and 2012 for it, not every year has every diagram. You will find something like this (which is the 2011 Headlight Switch diagram):

I am sure you have already fixed it, but I had a unique opportunity to get a picture of the trunk light from the side that shows what eGuru means by the exposed ends of the bulb and ease of shorting it out. Someone had cut off the rear quarter of the car in the junk yard. and how it is supposed to be mounted

I have been working on my own setup for some accent lighting in the cabin similar to the ambient lighting already available. I have setup a more complex color and brightness setup with a microprocessor and SMD tri color LEDS, and played around with EL wire. But a 2012 SEL came into the junk yard, the center console was easy to remove, so I pulled the cup holders with the ambient lighting LEDs, clear ring, and ambient lighting module. $7 for it, I didn't hide the electronics but had hoped they would just charge me for it being a cup holder, but they charged me for a "connector" as well, so okay with that. I didn't grab the switch because the car was a mess and a biohazard and that part of the dash was destroyed. I might try for a switch set, or I will likely put my own switch someplace else, while it is 7 colors, I think I will stay with ice blue or blue. I might add other lights other places (I Have 4 of the other LED modules with the defusers), but I really like it in the cup holders. Since the required input is simply a momentary 12v to change between 7 colors and off, just a momentary switch someplace in the console. not filthy, but way dirtier than I have every seen: Module removed so I can look at the voodoo inside and clean it up without soaking electronics cleaned up a little, but took off the clear ring and wiring and LEDs to really clean up: The magic part of it: JTAG interface? I doubt it Probably the color it will spend most of its time: Need to clean up the clear plastic part, there are some places that look bad, but not that bad, only of you are focused on them

Yeah, I get that it is bits and pieces of other cars, but as we know the Edge shares the platform with the Fusion already (same wheelbase, edge is wider, taller), and comparing the Edge to the Outback it is wider, but I would say same class already. If not size, what will differentiate the Edge from the Fusion SUV? Not sure how the next Fusion platform will compare to the current one.

Since it has a mechanical water pump I guess they might be using the electric pump that is used in the heater circuit. I hope it isn't a large power drain, I remember having a fan stay on for 5 minutes and it really puts a drain on the battery. Sure mine has an AGM battery and even after 56k miles still tests higher than originally rated, but still.

Highly Frankensteined and not sure how it compares to the Edge size wise, but I am not sure there is a market for something like it, I guess I need to compare the Edge with the Subie. I know they wouldn't sell many wagons in the US, but would rather see it than yet another SUV.

You need to request a free short term extended license from Forscan (there also longer term pay options). You also need to apply it to the program. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=836