bangster

Is it the cooling fan still running? I have an appointment for my 2017 Escape for this customer satisfaction that is for the 1.5 GTDi engine, I hear they are lowering power output as part of it, but i could see more aggressive cooling fan operation as part of it.

Just to play devils advocate, and not knowing which documents are right or wrong...anything title related or anything signed or just sales and ad copy. It isn't Carvana, buying it sight unseen I don't think, it was probably Ford dealer (they have Ford, Chevy, Nissan, Toyota, etc) The model is on the deck lid Not sure which type of cluster it has, but mileage on one of them is always shown, no matter what mode you are in The ad had a link to Carfax that may or may not show the mileage history (I bet it did) The ad had a disclaimer that the information was as good as they thought it could be, but might be wrong The ad had the VIN which after 2 seconds of searching by VIN gave me a simple report and the ability to download the original window sticker The ad never mentioned it had adaptive cruise The as never mentioned it had cooled seats But in the end crappy experience from a dealership. Mileage that means the difference between remainder of basic warranty or not is a big difference.

Pin 1 on both connectors (LH and RH) is power and pin 2 is ground, so they should be the same, you should be able to try them on the other side to see if they work or not. You can verify that by looking for the black with green stripe (ground) being in the same place. With a 50amp fuse for each one, I wonder if there is a different wiring setup between the Halogen and LED fog lights.

Welcome! As you have already identified, I made a similar transition (from a 2000 Grand Marquis with 320,000). While I didn't have my 2015 long (bought for my daughter) and my 2012 is no where near equipped like a 2019 is, I understand where you are coming from, pretty big difference between the two cars. My father got a 2020 Explorer Platinum with all the gadgets, and I am sure he is still fighting with his, yelling at it when lane keeping takes him into a turn lane, or makes him use it turn signal or vibrates the wheel. I still see him looking over his shoulder when backing up!

I would first check Fuse 62 as it is for the LH fog light (67 is for the right one) in the BJB. After that, I am pretty sure the wiring connectors are same left and right, so yo can try to left one on the right side, stuff like that.

I am lucky I have access to a number of mobile windows devices (a work laptop, a personal laptop, an old beat up 4 years of college laptop, a Surface Pro, etc), but if I didn't, and I still might do it, is an older Windows 8/10 Intel based tablet. $70 for the tablet, $10 for the OBDII adapter (USB or Bluetooth). Using the Surface Pro for me is the best, as a tablet with a bluetooth keyboard seems the best with Forscan (or the shipped keyboard also). I don't have an FFH but have driven a few as I would love to add one for a second car and possibly for a teen driver (if he ever felt like getting his license). But I use Torque on my phone and Forscan for Fords and other windows app for other makes, to help friends out (I usually end up giving them one of the really cheap $4-5 Bluetooth adapters).

The last time sold 8/11/2019 shows 19k miles, so 30k miles in 5 months, or more than likely the trail of poor paperwork. https://www.vehiclehistory.com/vin-report/3FA6P0D94JR138971 (very simple free information)

Besides the discrepancy in mileage, it sounds like every other Craigslist ad that lists every possible option even if it doesn't have it. I don't know how many Fusions I looked at that said they had a V6 and all the options I wanted (but no pictures, red flag there) and they ended up being pretty basic SE with the I4. At first I would kiddingly ask is the one listed hidden behind this one, but eventually I just wouldn't even stop, waste my time, you can waste your time waiting for me and I won't be showing up. Got good at spotting things like blind spot mirrors from blocks away (when they say it has BLIS). If those missing options are a deal killer, I would try very hard to not accept the car. If they aren't really requirements that you were looking for in a vehicle, find out how much those items are (as part of the package) and get that dropped off the price. I am not sure how much leverage you have, even with the paperwork issues.

2013 Titanium comes standard with Remote Start. You press the Lock button on the remote, then within 3 seconds, press the 2x button twice.

I wonder if who you talked to has ever seen a Fusion at the point of being able to swap out the air bag. Even if the tech(s) have their own little shortcuts to do the job quicker, the dash still needs to be pulled to some extent. So many reports of things not working after it is done, while I obviously don't a passenger to be hit with a misfiring airbag, I really like everything on mine working right. I think that even though it doesn't look like it, the column is disconnected (usually they tie it up so it doesn't spin, not even one rotation) in this picture of one mid airbag replacement.

I think that nearly 4 year old "for sale" posts and the poster not being active for almost a year means they likely are no longer available.

As someone that has evaporative cooling in my house (only method of cooling for last 24 years), and just got AC, I...can't imagine it in a car in Mississippi. I remember having one in a VW when I was younger, but in a much temperate climate. To be honest I was young enough that I could be in the heat and humidity and not really care. I do have dual cooling in my house (still will use evap cooling for April, May, June, and part of July I hope), but will switch over to AC July-October. I also have done my own AC work on my last 2 cars because of $600+ estimates. I bought a vacuum pump (electric, not one ran by a compressor, which I have could have done), gauges, R134 can adapter, spring lock tools. I then usually get the O-Ring kits (especially when converting from R12 to R134), sometimes a junk yard compressor, and go at it. Of course my latest vehicle uses R-1234YF so I will probably not do anything with it.

Is it just the cap that has the oil/water mix or was the oil you drained out the same way? If the car has been doing short trips, and the weather is just right, condensation can cause the cap to look like that.

$7500 and under 100k should be workable, that is close to my criteria. I allowed an extra $1500 for an MKZ. I ended up at $7000, 107k miles, AWD (didn't really care about that), only a 401A code car (I would have loved backup sensors and camera). I passed up a couple high priced ones as I didn't see the value added by lower mileage, so I get that. One came close to being worth it but the seller wasn't being straight about a few things and I wondered what else they might be hiding, so skipped it. I think it took me 6 months to get mine, and still after all that had to deal with title issues for nearly 6 more months. definite on the list: V6 (Sport was primary goal) Silver or white (maybe red or blue) 401a code car moon roof and premium sound wanted list: 402a code car with BLIS, rearview camera, ambient lighting, keypad, and puddle lamps didn't want: I4 black blue inserts in seats didn't care: AWD (but with the smaller fuel tank capacity and the hit to fuel mileage, along with added mechanical things to go wrong, I would have went without for sure, I live in the desert and put on summer only tires on it!)

PTU I hope to never have to, but mine is still pushing nasty fluid out of the vent. You don't mention what year your vehicle is, so not sure how it changes in 2013+. While this video doesn't show it being removed, it shows all the mounting points and details, it should be helpful. It helped me visualize where the vent was for example so I could blindly find it to get pictures and feel how much fluid was pooling.

2017 Platinums show as Titaniums. 2018 Platinums show as Titanium/Platinums, and even though 2019 got a new VIN code, Platinums were removed from the lineup.

Besides saying Platinum (or Titanium) on the deck lid, the Sport grill (honey comb instead of horizontal slats), and polished 19 inch wheels (Titanium has optional 19 inch wheels that machined face and dark pockets). The mileage discrepancy is troubling as much, if not more, than the while difference in model and features expected.

For 2018 the Titanium and Platinum shared vin codes (in VIN, positions 5,6, and 7) P0K for FWD and P0D for AWD. 2019 they had unique VIN codes, and ironically they dropped Platinum in 2019, so it got a unique VIN but wasn't produced. 2017 they don't even show Platinum in the VIN guide. Without adaptive cruise and cooled seats, it isn't a Platinum (and should be badged as a Titanium (or Platinum as it is a full model)). There are a number of standard Platinum items that are not available on the Titanium like the Sport grille and 19" polished wheels. Most everything else is available as an option or part of a package.

I have only gotten the notification in the FordPass app for that, and setup an appointment. I am not sure that I want them to make my Escape have less HP, it is already right on the edge of powerful enough. A short block is the block assembly minus the head, so if the head is the issue and they are replacing the shortblock, there is a miscommunication someplace.

Good luck with your search. I attempted something similar but I had a weighted spreadsheet and waited until I was as close to what I really wanted as possible, but my existing car wearing out might have accelerated that. I had queries for craigslist and cars.com that I checked probably every day. I mean... https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/gladstone-2012-ford-fusion-4dr-sdn/7057536689.html comes up looking at Portland CL, pricey, and not sure which blue you want (2010 has Sport Blue Metallic and Light Ice Blue Metallic, 2011 has Steel Blue Metallic, and 2012 has Blue Flame Metallic and Steel Blue Metallic but Sport not available with Steel Blue or Light Ice). You don't mention price, price was a driver for me. That seems to be a 402A code car with moon and tune, comfort package, drivers vision package, no nav (so every possible included option except added cost paint and accessory type things like all weather mats and remote start).

Great to hear they work well in the snow! I actually drove my Sport (AWD) to Colorado a day after they got 6 inches of snow, on some very sketchy A/S tires, and it did well enough, I can imagine it would be a beast with some good tires. I am possibly going to see if my daughter wants to go this route and try to sell her current snow tires on 16 inch rims. They haven't had much snow, she doesn't seem to venture out of the city much. While I know they are "winter" tires and not just snow tires, and the softer compound works better in the cold, the winter tires might be overkill.

I had an older car that did this, I was able to disconnect the electronics to find out it was mechanical, but that isn't possible with your 2016, on all trim levels there is no mechanical way to open it with a turn of the key. The switch under the decklid ledge, the button on the instrument panel, and button on remote key fob, and if you have one, the keypad on door pillar is another that I think causes most people to have issues with the spurious trunk opening (but I am not sure it will do it while in gear). There are quite a few threads on this on this site, some report that it happens when it is sitting, some report it happens when they unlock the door using the keypad, and some report it while driving. I would search the site, and generally feel you will find more information in a not specific to a year forum, and look for 2013+ posts.

There are cams, headers, forged internals, lower compression (for forced induction) pistons, turbo intakes, exhaust, CAI, tunes, people using the 2.3 head, etc. I wouldn't limit yourself to this site for 2.5 information, Escape, Mazda (you will probably find more information on 2.3 to 2.5 upgrades, but the 2.5 upgraded over a stock 2.5), all good sources. Frequently see Escape owners building up a 2.5 instead of the 3.0 for a variety of reasons, as well as upgrading from the 2.3 (for performance, cost, or availability reasons).

There is an SSM (Special Service Message, I guess not enough to be a TSB) on it, has been for a year at least. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163592-0001.pdf I am at 56k on my 2017 Escape with the 1.5, and I have added more coolant to it than to my 2012 Fusion, so I am not sure if that is an issue or not. It isn't drinking it like beer and hasn't overheated. I think it is the block and not the head.

Being off by !100 feet (to the right of the actual road)? I can't remember the way to get to show the number of satellites connected, I am guessing it is a precision problem and not the map.