bangster

Glad you got it solved and came back and reported what fixed it!

Welcome! Would love to hear about specifics for you car and your end goal, and remember when posting to be as specific as possible on your car, much easier to suggest things knowing year, model, and engine, and anything else related to what you are looking for.

Might depend on what controls you have, but that is exactly what the "Recirculate" or "Recirc" button does. It is the one with the car with an arrow inside it. It is #10 below (similar if you have dual automatic controls):

I wish there was better information to share. I was in a similar situation, but probably not quite as dire and had some time to plan it. I don't think that $200 to get a hitch and wiring (plus installation) with the limited amount that can be towed is a good way to go. If it was 2000 pounds tow rating, then I would say it seemed like a good idea. Can 400 pounds in the open trailer be done? Sure. If you have a trailer it might be lighter weight if it is like a landscapers trailer. I saved my daughter $1600 she planned on spending to move 1000 miles with a trunk one way and towing a vehicle by renting a 5x9 trailer to tow with my 2017 Escape (which with the 1.5 GTDI rated at 2000 pounds). Actually with a couple of flights included, it would have been close to $2000 more to rent a truck versus the trailer one way. $100 for the trailer for 7 days versus $2200 for truck and trailer. We just drove both vehicles (34mpg with the Fusion, and 24 mpg with the tow vehicle, see below) was much cheaper. Of course it didn't work that way, I calculated the weight and volume on information they gave me, and it was completely low. It was a fully furnished 1 bedroom. 95% of it fit in the trailer, but it was probably more than 2500 pounds, and I wasn't comfortable with all the mountain driving I would have to be doing. I calculated 1200 pounds of stuff (120 pounds for a queen mattress, 250 for a sofa, 300 for kitchenware, etc). I wasn't aware of the amount books and clothes and how heavy they were. I ended up switching vehicles with my parents. Their 2012 F150 towed it much better than my Escape (but to be honest, the Escape did okay around town, with numerous starts and stops in traffic). It also allowed me to fill the back of the vehicle with another 4% of stuff. There was one dresser that got left behind, we could have got creative but it seemed like they really didn't want it. Honestly I was going to tell them to pack what they personally had ties to and leave the rest, $2000 buys a lot of stuff. They then had to do a local move and it was $20 to rent the truck for 2 days (and per miles, so we didn't joy ride in it).

Sounds like a lot of work, and you can get wiring diagrams from bbbind.com (TSB/wiring diagram link at the bottom). So what all current issues are you having with electrical? Now it won't start where it used to before fixing the wiring? What else, like no theft light, or other dash lights? looking at the BJB/underhood fuse box wiring diagrams, it only shows the fused things, and none that I see use black, your assumption that they are all grounds is a sound one.

I am not condemning the PTU! It is a very common thing to have it gunked up and start pushing stuff out the vent, If yours isn't wet, then it might not be actively pushing out fluid. The PTU is supposedly lifetime fill, but there is a sight plug that can be used to pull out fluid (if it is still fluid and not carbon!) and fill it. I thought mine was power steering fluid (you don't have power steering fluid) from where the smell was from and looks of some of the fluid, but it was way too viscous to be power steering fluid. This is where mine dripped from the car: This is what I started seeing that prompted me to look into it, I started smelling it a day earlier: That threaded plug with the red sealant is the sight/fill plug:

All 2013 Fusions have a 4 cylinder ? If it is the 2.5 or 1.6 GTDI, then max trailer weight is 1000 pounds. (2.0GTDI is 2000, Hybrid says no towing). The smallest covered trailer that UHaul rents out (4 feet wide, 8 feet long, 3 1/2 feet tall) weighs 850 pounds. The smallest utility trailer they rent (4x7) weighs 630 pounds. Covered one means 150 pounds worth of stuff (to stay within rated towing, you could go over that and who knows what could happen). Add in the cost of a hitch ($100 to $150 plus install), wiring kit is $45 (plus install). I am sure both are easy to install with minimal required tools (I installed one on all my vehicles, including most recently my 2017 Escape). One way rentals are brutally expensive if you are going to a place that doesn't really need trucks currently. I have driven one round trip 600 miles because it was that much cheaper than leaving it where moving to, but that added 20 hours to the move, which at time was fine, but I am not sure I could waste 20 hours now.

My 2015 SE has an MPC style one that has a T harness and only 2 tapped wire connections. If you have 2 non cloned keys it is pretty easy. It uses the OEM remote (you press lock 3 times), or you can get a longer distance remote or a smartphone module (not sure if there are monthly costs with that). I didn't do the install, it came already installed, we found it on accident trying to show global window up and down, then when I installed a dash cam I got a peek at the wiring and modules for it.

PTU is the "transfer case" that directs power to the rear in your AWD vehicle. This vent at the top is where mine is coming out (I can't really describe rear axle lube smell, it isn't pleasant and it is oil smelling for sure), this is a clean one, the cap the finger is pointing to: This is what mine looks like: It is difficult to track it down and see it from the top, but it is possible, it on the drivers side, and you can see it behind the engine, that is the brake master cylinder to the right, the battery is under the camera:

So it is demand then, that fuse the eGuru mentioned, I misunderstood the symptoms.

Isn't "demand lighting" for the user switching on the light itself, and "courtesy" (Fuse 9) for the car controlling the lights? Since the demand lighting fuse (F25) is for the domes, the vanities, glove box, trunk, I think F9 would be what to check.

That first code should be gone if your radio now works. the second one, I am not sure about. the last one means the ABS is not receiving the signal from the rack with the steering angle. It is a pretty common issue with the Fusion, I doubt it has anything to do with the battery mix up, but maybe it sped up the failure. There are no normally serviceable items on the EPAS rack, sold as an assembly, but you can check the external wiring and connectors. Do you have a way to read PIDs (like Torque app and an OBD-II adapter) or have an VOM? This PDF has some details on the pinpoint tests for this failure. http://askatech.com/AskATechLive/forums/ResourceHandler.ashx?a=11570

Any fluid dripping on the ground? My AWD Fusion is the same way because of gear lube cooking in the PTU. Mine is leaving a ton of gloopy dark black fluid. I am slowly trying to get it cleared up (but sucking out, then replacing it with new gear lube). If you have the belly pan in place it might be masking what is leaking.

With EPAS it is on the rack, I believe that location is for the Sport only that still has hydraulic assisted power steering.

The interior lights should come on with the door closed when you unlock it with the key fob. The front two lights should be on with the door open. The center of the rear light should be on with the door open. The reading lights in the rear should only be on when the toggle switch is switched on. Each individual light in front can be turned on with the switch when the door is closed and the lights are off. All the lights can be turned on when the door is closed and the lights are off (using the panel dimmer switch up button held).

That isn't how the lights are supposed to work. With the doors open, they all should be on. With the door closed, after dramatic dimming is done, they should be off, unless you use a switch to turn an individual one on. I guess there are options for what lights there are, but with an SEL should have all the map/reading lights. Can you turn them all on with the headlight switch (the dimmer control up pressed and held)?

I would love a diesel wagon! I really don't see the need to sit up tall in a CUV/SUV but do like the utility of a wagon. I would (if I could) trade my Escape for one in a second. The grille looks exactly like the lower grille on the 2010-2012 Sport, same outside shape, same angled bars at the ends, same honeycomb open in the center closed in the ends.

I am guessing that if you disconnect the TB from the intake that you can get the intake off without removing the fuel line, but removing the fuel line is pretty easy if you have the spring lock tool.

I know there are other gadget people and coders and tinkerers here. Tired of gathering gadgets to play around with one at a time, so to bulk up my Arduino modules selection I ordered this crazy 37 piece sensor/module group for cheap from Hong Kong. Been waiting less than patiently for it (too cheap to spring for priority shipping), finally came in. Took quite a while to open up 38 individual static bags (most people get them in zip locks), took even longer to straighten out bent pins and components, and identify which ones I need to re-solder to fix. Made a catalog of them, what chips they have, on board support, etc. I haven't tested a single one yet, not even the laser module. Most are duplicates of things I already have, and are not really things I will use, but for the cost of a few modules I got 37! Gonna need another storage container: Also with classes starting back up next week, probably not gonna get much time to play

Is that something you would want to do with the Sport airbox as the snorkle goes up to the top of the radiator support and not down to the fender well? I had mine out as I was trying to fix where it mounts to the radiator support, and I honestly don't remember what it looked like from below.

Sounds good! I know what you mean about the engine noise being much louder than the exhaust, especially stock. I can't get anyone to drive my car like I do to hear it. I am not sure I am willing to drop the bucks for that exhaust but it probably wouldn't get me in trouble with the law but make it more obvious I am pushing my car to the limits. It would be nice to get some mods to increase the power a little, I would be after more drivability and a better noise though. I actually have 2 Sports within a block of me, but both drivers would be better off with the I4, suspension clunking louder than the engine and exhaust at a snails pace that they drive, even when provoked.

What model and radio setup do you have (not an S 4 speakers or standard SE 6 speakers), the 10 speaker setup (SE tech pack) or Sony Premium in a Titanium? The sub amp does use a different fuse (5) than the regular amp (28).

Well, they did post the VIN tag that shows it was manufactured in 07/09...and if you look up the VIN there are plenty of accident pics, 2 different accidents, and pictures (and completely different wreck stories from what they told you). I hope the Focus works out for you and the new driver. I would still check out some suggestions on how to drive with the DCT, especially at lower speeds (like in parking lots), and see if it has extended warranty on the TCM. Seems like it might have been an impetuous buy I hope that it is in as good of shape as it seems. I could tell the owners of cars that I test drove more about the car then they knew, but it takes me awhile to get my cars, but I also keep them for 10-20 years and so know I have to get it right.

As in provide a key, copy it from an existing key, and if only one programmed key exists, program it in as a second key? Yes, most are equipped to do that, or at least clone it.

Spark plugs, coolant, transmission fluid, check the brake pads and rotors, replace the brake fluid, etc. Many of those are near due or over due. I would check out the steering components and suspension for things like tie rod ends and shocks and bushings, how well the tires are wearing and maybe an alignment. There is a maintenance schedule, many of the miles/timing on them seem a bit long, I wouldn't go to 150k on transmission fluid, even with an eCVT.