bangster

Do you mean points on the engine and car that have ground wire/straps and are supposed to, or do you mean a harness that is somehow grounded and causing a fuse to blow, your issue with the primary side of the ignition coils?

Not all code readers will pull these type of powertrain codes. I cannot get them with my Bluetooth Elm327 adapter and Torque, but I can with my XCal-II tuner. At least you know it isn't anything with AWD!

If it blows them as soon as you replace it and try to run the car, seems like there is probably an issue with the harness someplace. I don't understand what you mention about the fuse box, maybe it is broken somehow or burnt? I wouldn't keep installing fuses until I looked further into the wiring harness. As a new person to this platform and not having a 4 cylinder version, I don't know what to look for as far as common places for the wiring to have issues.

Yup, looks slightly different than the 6F35 shifter mount, but basically the same thing. Popped off the chrome piece, hit it with a T20 bit on both sides, and nice and solid!

The top one is the one that the boot tore on. I bought a set of 30,000 take offs from a 2015 Taurus, same price for 6 as for 1 new one, so will have spares. You can also see how broken up the radiator support is. The air intake mounts are broken off, as is the hood prop rod. Still haven't dug much into it as still trying to get the title straightened out. Looking at the pile of parts I should just get to work on it and assume I can get a title.

I meant to say fuse 48 is for the power for the coils, and since it is all coils, and it is not starting, I wouldn't be looking at components like coils and the codes are for the primary wiring side (the 12v side, not the high voltage spark side).

Something common with all 4 coils, as those codes mean all 4 coils have a primary wiring issue. I don't know if the fuse #48 under the hood that powers the injectors can cause the fault code or not (it is for the injectors). You can test for 12v at each coil to see if it is the power feed or not. I also don't know if there is a common connector they are all on that might be having issues, or the power feed to them before branching off. The PCM actually grounds the coil to fire. The P0456 in the grand scheme of things is minor, and can be cause by a bad or missing gas cap or other small leak in the evap system.

All 2010-2012 (and newer) have EPAS (electric power assist steering). This seems to be a common issue, and when both advancetrac and steering faults it is generally in the rack. I think the Torque Sensor and the Steering Wheel Position Sensor are part of the rack, no other steering inputs for steering are involved, there are others for advancetrac. Pretty sure that since you likely paid a diagnostic fee and a fee to have it replaced that you should be able to take it back and have it covered by the previous work done. Does it come on all the time and have you lost steering? Or does it come up after you take the steering to one extreme or the other (fully turned to the left, or right, or a wide sweep)?

I never tried out the basic 4 speaker system without Sync when test driving cars (if I was interested in the car I would have, but never was), the 6 speaker SE system I did listen to, and the jukebox equipped navigation setup, and it was okay. I am happy with my 2012 group 401A (moon and tune 12 speaker 390w setup) that I ended up with, even with lower quality from Bluetooth and streaming it sounds good enough I wouldn't immediately replace it. I could see myself spending close to 1000 bucks to get Android Auto wireless support, retain mic and steering wheel controls etc.

The gap is well over .070, the ground strap is worn in half on one side. Is it still running? yes! Is it still running fairly well? yes! Am I going to replace a wear item that is 10% over the scheduled maintenance period? YES! I am sure I could leave them in for another 50,000 and it would be "okay", but for 11 bucks (6 Iridium plugs and the upper intake set) seems like a no brainer. I get to see how they are burning (the first 2 look great, no oil fouling, ash, build up from additives, etc). Other than the nearly impossible to remove coils from 6 years and 107k miles without being touched, doesn't seem that bad of a job. Not as easy as the 10 minutes for my 4.6 powered cars, but pretty simple even with the intake removal. This car won't get more than 10,000 miles a year more than likely, so this could be the one and only plug change it gets,

Since there is an auxiliary input, how about adding Bluetooth to that? I did that with my older cars, add a mount for the phone, setup Android Auto to launch when connected to that Bluetooth device, and it works pretty well. I am doing something similar with my 2012 Fusion for now. While it does have Sync with Bluetooth, it defaults to Bluetooth USB and I have to either say "Bluetooth audio" or navigate to it in the menu. While not all that hard, it is a little annoying versus just plug and play. I think that Aux in is easier to get to, and possibly will remain in that setting when turning off car and restarting it. This is similar to what I have in multiple cars. the mic isn't the greatest, but can be used in a pinch. https://www.banggood.com/3_5MM-Aux-Car-Bluetooth-Receiver-3_0-Wireless-Music-Audio-Receiver-p-1305593.html I am still looking for a good mount for this car, but they have ones that install into the CD slot (what i have now). In a perfect world I would get the dash kit for installing a dual DIN head unit, and either pay the premium for one that does wireless Android Auto/Apple Carplay, or the cheaper ones that do wired connectivity. The head unit only needs to do Android Auto and FM, a backup camera input would be nice, as would OBD connectivity for gauges. I have Sync 3 in my '17 Escape, and it is nice, but having Android Auto on my phone with it mounted to the dash is pretty close, using voice commands is easy. If I will be in the car for awhile I plug it in for Android Auto, but for short trips I leave phone in pocket and use the App Link for Pandora and built in controls for phone, it will still call out my navigation, just don't see the map.

SIGH Still no title after 2+ weeks. I can't get any information from the bank because the title isn't in my name. The previous "owner" finally gave me some information. Apparently the bank took my check, his money he owed on the car above what I paid for it (looked like he had to pay around 800 bucks). They thought that meant this was a "refinance" and put the title in the name of the bank, and sent him a lien release. He informed me that I could register it with a bill of sale, which not entirely correct. I could get a 90 day temp except there is an owner of it in state, the bank. I don't know what the status is on it and the recalled passenger air bag. I have been hesitant to do any work on it as who know what is going to happen, but have to start because this was my wheels to go to school in the evenings, I would have to have to buy yet another car to drive. I guess I should have either waited for a more perfect car or settled on something local and more obviously straight forward. This is the second car I have had issues buying. My 1997 Mark VIII...had a lien (on a 2000 dollar car?), was registered to someone else, they were 3000 miles away, and the title had issues. I put down 300 bucks and let it all play out 200 miles away from me. That wasn't as bad as this but it was sketchy until it all worked out. I think that it was driven and transmission was messed up between my test drive and eventually taking ownership of it.

Welcome! Nice looking car! Good luck with it and hopefully many miles without needing anything. I don't know what would cause it to be an expensive car to maintain in Brazil, not common is all I can guess. While I had my heart set on a 2010-2012 Sport, I widened my search for the earlier ones, which were much cheaper to buy, more of them had the 3.0 V6, but in the end the headlights not being clear and the clear tail lights turned me off.

Having some high mileage recent Fords, I tend to get 80k out of the single platinums before drivability and fuel mileage concerns. I like the Autolite Iridiums (as with the always available rebate they are 90 cents each at the most) and at 80k they have a little more life left. With 320,000 miles personally put on a 2000 Grand Marquis, 130,000 on a 97 Cougar, 60,000 on a 97 Mark VIII, and 23,000 on a 2017 Escape 1.5L I am well versed in short and extended schedules on Fords. 100k is the service schedule for the plugs. I have the feeling that I will get a little SOP performance increase, mileage (dismal so far), and drivability/slight vibration fixed. I get that the transmission isn't yet there, and I won't do 30,000 like with my other cars, but won't do 150,000 either. There is no schedule for PTU, but other Ford vehicles suffer issues when it gets cooked out, and I will drive it hard. The air filter is ancient and been blown out with compressed air, and guesses on the cabin air filter? Coolant is over due, serpentine belts (one of which is something I have never heard of, a stretch belt), oil change (dash says so). So maintenance up to date for the previous owner means keeping the fuel tank filled enough to drive it. I have 150 bucks worth of parts on the way from Rock Auto. I had to cancel the order because I ordered 8 plugs (always had a V8), and title issues not resolved, I have to get my other car back on the road.

While waiting on the title (been 2 weeks, it had a lien), so not driving it without plates or registration, decided to start checking things. The previous owner said it was all up to date on maintenance, but I doubted that. I am not ready to remove the intake, but decided to check out one of the front plugs. At 107,000 I figure they already have been changed...but: purple tip I think means from the factory: the ground strap is pretty worn at an angle: And on one of the COPs after struggling to get it out, and being unable to get the plug out, the first inch of the boot tore off and remained on the plug, so I guess I have to buy a coil as well, as the boot doesn't seem replaceable separately like my other cars. So it is getting plugs, one coil, coolant, transmission fluid (which smells and looks okay, but isn't the red I am used to), an oil change, PTU gear oil change, then we'll see what else it needs. I was going to try to replace the rear view mirror, but I think it vibrating will go away with a tune up of swapping plugs.

Part is 40-60 bucks, dealers charge 100-150 an hour, so...sure, I could see it being that.

Welcome! Love the hybrid and the mileage. If I didn't crave the pickup of the 3.5 (or the 2.0 GTDI) I would have gotten one. My daughter is upset I didn't spend the extra 3k to get her a hybrid versus the 2.0 in her 2015, and it would have been worth it for her in the long run, but was a little short sighted. She still nails down close to 30, so not much worse than the Focus we were shopping for.

I only test drove 2 other F21 Aisin equipped cars, and I remember one was a little loose, but not like this. None of the 3.0 cars I drive had a shifter handle like this either. I assume that I somehow pry down the chrome bit around the bottom and it has short screws like the 3.0 cars with the different transmission? I am not sure if I can put a link or a video in here, but

The water pump on the 3.0 is externally accessible, it isn't behind the timing cover. I don't know if it can be done any easier but I assume it can be.

This car did spend time in Colorado, I am used to AZ/CA cars that have zero rust, and this the exhaust is a little rusty, the exhaust manifolds, etc. Good news is...it won't get any more rusty! Finding out that a lot of parts I thought would be easy to find and replace are engine and drive configuration specific, like engine "skid plate/pan", the radiator support (3.5 air intake is a slot in it), exhaust FWD vs AWD, etc. Found a 2011 with very new brakes in the junk yard, debating if I want to just pull all of that off or actually upgrade to MS6. I can do each corner from you pull it junk yard for 24 bucks, I am worried that doing MS6 parts via RockAuto I won't get my core back sending in the wrong parts.

Needed to replace my 1997 Mark VIII and 2000 Grand Marquis...with something. Started looking for a 2010-2012 Fusion and MKZs. Must haves? White or Silver. V6. Nice to haves? Sport. AWD. Backup sensors. NO navigation. Like to have? 80,000 or fewer miles. Drove a number of MKZs (too many issues with too hard to find parts, like headlights, mesh in seats for heat/cold torn, etc). Drove quite a few V6 3.0s, and found a few that I liked, but didn't love. I drove a few second gens (bought my daughter a 2015 2.5 SE with appearance package) with the 1.5 and 2.0, liked them but out of price range (8,000) and again, I like the 2010-2012 style. Ended up getting this 2012 Sport AWD in Ingot Silver with moon roof. It has some issues, and 108,000 miles, but I can work through most of them, mainly trying to clean up scratches and gouges. hangin with our daughters 2015 Fusion and my wife's 2017 Escape First impressions after buyers remorse and driving in more conditions... The front bumper is loose. It doesn't have the pan under the engine so I think that might affect it so much quieter on the interstate than my 2017 Escape no where close to the acceleration as my Mark VIII much less drama well over posted speed limit than my Mark VIII about 5 mpg less than the Mark VIII (only averaged 23.5 on a 110 mile trip, easily got 28 in Mark VIII, in Escape about the same (1.5t)) Fixes? PTU fluid change replace radiator support or install gas struts for hood (plastic radiator support has the prop rod broken off) get belly pan or find out why bumper cover is loose touch up scratches touch up rims from being curbed Upgrades: either aftermarket headlights with DRLs or mod the existing ones to add HID projectors (not put HID bulbs with Halogen projectors) body color grille (aftermarket primer coated top/middle/lower) remote start aftermarket radio that supports Android Auto (wireless if they come down in price) Mustang chrome Bullitt wheels (correct offset ones, with the rounded euro lip, not the older ones) Speed6 brakes (if I have to start replacing parts, might as well, it does get pricey for the minimal increase, but anything I can do reasonably for better brakes)