bangster

I would definitely school yourself on the DCT issues with the PowerShift DPS6 used in that and the Fiesta! I drove quite a few of them (mostly ex-rentals) and every one had the poor low speed shifting, even if I kept it long enough to retrain it. Only one didn't seem to have it, and it had new discs, seals, and TCM, and probably a matter of time before it happened again. Just knowing it is a DCT and not a true automatic and adjusting accordingly (how you drive, what to expect) maybe it would be fine if you are starting with one that is not already affected.

First obvious question would be why the rebuilt title, probably front end hit since it has monochrome grille? Lots of miles, and the average fuel mileage is pretty low at 32 mpg, so I would make sure that EV is working when it should, how it should. I drove a few hybrids and never really got a good feel for how it should work, not like someone that drives one every day. Only one seemed to work right, I had to have the owner drive it and explain it to me. It is well equipped, but the requilt title, miles on it and the mpg indicated would make me hesitant. I am not against rebuilt title cars, but I would want to know why.

Glad to hear that it is solved. I think that my 2015 has the same issue. I think the white lines are actually so far off they show as spots at the bottom of the display. Can you share the steps and where in Forscan this is done?

SYNC version 4.6 is annoying for me because the mic no longer works for the phone OS/calls unless paired as a phone (most 4.6 complaints are iPhone/Siri issues same thing). Sync 4.4 is what I down graded to, and it works well with an iPhone XR and XS, iPhone 6, and the Android phones I have tried, no compatibility issues at all. I personally use Android Auto/Google Assistant on my phone and any iPhone stuff on the phone display. I started with 4.1.3 which was what it left the factory with in 2012. The mic has to work for me because I use it to get places (navigate home, navigate to closest burger king), text to speech (message junior sms "I am in the parking lot"), and asking how many quarts in a gallon. It also needs to read back my messages, which 4.6 wouldn't do. I would try a master reset and a reset to default, then add back in the phone(s) but that seems to not fix my issues ever, but a pulling of the car battery does. I couldn't even reinstall 4.4 or 4.6 until I pulled the battery, it would just fail.

Do you have Intelligent Access/push button start or the flip key style fob? Do you have 1 or 2? You can get them for much less than $300 if the flip key, and if you have 2 working keys then after you get it cut (locksmith or if you have the sticker from an original one Ford can cut it without duplicating an existing one) and program it in yourself. If you only have one then you need to either get adventurous and use Forscan and an OBD-II adapter or get a lock smith or dealer to do it. There are even Intelligent Access keys for under $100 on eBay.

Yes, there are updates to the version of SYNC you have, you may already have the latest. Be aware that the current update for many people comes with some issues along with fixes. I had to find and downgrade to a slightly older version of SYNC to get close to the sweet spot. I chronicled what was fixed, what was broken, and what I ended up doing, I think it is all posted here in one of the forums. Every 6 or 7 months or so I get the following issue: Bluetooth connects then disconnects (I have to force it in the menu because of the next item...) mic doesn't work (I press button, say "bluetooth audio" and it times out telling what I can do (instead of not understanding my commands)) I have found that I have to disconnect the battery (I will try just the fuse the next time, as then I have to go through all the OBD tests again disconnecting the battery), master reset or reset to defaults doesn't do it, nor does removing Bluetooth devices. While I don't rely on SYNC for anything, I really hate driving without it, so I will add a 3.5mm patch cable to the cables I carry in the car, and I also need to try out a few different USB and Bluetooth to USB solutions, as last time it was midnight, I was 300 miles from home, and stopped in the middle of no where to pull the battery, which is less than ideal. Hopefully, if it does the same thing next time, I can debug the issue instead of just fixing it the only way I have been able to up to this point.

His Fusion has the antenna center rear of the roof. I think only the MKZ has the antenna amp for the grid antenna in the rear window. There is a module for the antenna at the front, it might be an amp as well, but I don't see it separated out in a wiring diagram like the one for the MKZ.

If you go to the other view (enlighten), that has the ACC power bar on the left by the battery charge and the EV light, does the little symbol for temperature turn green or stay white? If it stays white that means it will keep the ICE running all the time. It is possible that there is an issue with the battery that just isn't the bug that can be fixed by resetting the age.

Well they did mention they hope they don't get stopped for it... The tint law for Ontario for pre 2017 cars appears to be vague and not a set percentage of light allowed, but "can someone see in". Looks like a new law in 2017 only affects new cars with factory tint and doesn't allow added tint. I am glad my daughter has never been stopped for the strip on the windshield, it goes 2 inches below the AS line, and it is my direct view but not hers as she is shorter and also drives with the seat leaned back. If it wasn't a 2.0 powered car, and no spoiler, it looks just like my 2015 right now, with steel wheels and winter tires and all!

Wow even in Arizona I went with 35% front (all we are allowed) on my 2017 Escape, but my Fusions, bought used, have 20% on them. Looks good hopefully you can see well enough at night!

Some of that is subjective, but if you go here and compare you will find that all interior measurements are better for the 2015 (however not huge differences): https://www.kbb.com/compare-cars/results/?vehicleIds=364403|399453 (click on Dimensions) You can also make up your own spreadsheet to compare things not listed there like rear seat dimensions and overall height. Personally I like the seating position in the 2012 over the 2015, but once I got the seat moved and the steering wheel down, I don't hate the 2015. Visibility I don't think there is much difference. The back window is short, they both have a nose down stance (I sometimes cannot see a car behind me if they pull within a foot or so, which is common here at stop lights). You are more likely to find a backup camera in the Gen 2 (2013-2016) and Gen 2.5 (2017+) than the Gen 1.5 (2010-2012). Mainly because in 2015 they became standard equipment on all models. Mechanically there is very little difference between 2013-2016, and depending on engine and transmission, not much difference to current model year. I think the transmission was updated in 2013 to the second gen one, and other than maybe small programming changes, is the same from 2013-2017 for the 2.5, 1.5, 1.6, 2.0 everything but the Hybrid and 2.7 Ecoboost. Realistically there is not that much difference mechanically between them with the 2.5 between the 2010-2012 and 2013+

$6k for crate motor $3k for control pack If it would bolt up to the transmission the 2.3 has double the torque of the 2.5, so I suspect the transmission won't hold up, don't know if a 6F50/55 bolts to the 2.3 (was used in the MKZ so should fit).

A lot of time, money, and skills. Almost any swap can be done if it is within physical limits, and that probably is.

I can't seem to find a 2017+ wiring diagram for halogen headlights, just the LEDs. Since 2017 was first year for LED Signature Lighting, I doubt an early wiring diagram would help. You can go to bbbind.com and find the wiring diagrams (you need to sign up, for free) and see if you can find them there.

OEM plug by 2010 was iridium, which has a wear life of around 100-150k miles. You can compare those two Autolite plugs and see the difference is the heat range (and in the double platinum the electrode style). I doubt you are going to find a non resistor plug for modern applications. The last number is the heat range, the lower the colder. The 2006-2009 2.3 used the different electrode, but Ford no longer makes it and calls for the SP530 now. No place I checked for autolite part numbers show the 5364 2.5. They do for the 2.3, and 3.5, but not the 2.5. If you use the RockAuto more information to see the range, it doesn't specify anything else like what engine. This is why I wouldn't ask for part numbers on a forum, even with all sorts of good information out there you will get variable personal preference that has no facts to back it up as fact.

I don't agree with the double platinum part number given above, (APP5364 is different heat range, different electrode style) for the 2.5 as I would use the APP5363 so Iridium version of it is XP5363. XP5364 is what I put in my 3.5 powered Sport. I ordered the XP5363 for my 2015 with the 2.5, that is what all parts pickers for all the auto parts stores and the autolite production selector shows as well.

I too am partial to the Autolite plugs, and the Iridium for this engine are $1.12 after rebate! Now that I don't have 3 V8s I can get enough plugs each year with the rebate. $4.12 with a $3 each rebate on RockAuto, beats $6.74 each for Motorcraft.

There are a couple of quick ways to determine if it is the caliper or the brake line. First I would check that the rubber line isn't twisted. If it isn't, then pump up the brakes a couple of times, and open the brake bleeder. If fluid shoots out under pressure it is probably the rubber hose (they can collapse internally or be twisted, not allowing pressure to release). If fluid just dribbles out, then it is probably the caliper. To determine if it is the hydraulic/piston or something like the slide, would require more digging and disassembly. Did you use a special tool to spin in the caliper so make room for the new pad, or some other method (they can't just be compressed, they have to be turned while compressing since that is how the parking brake works)?

They have aftermarket tint installed. I live where interiors get to 145 degrees in the summer easy, and with lots of sun year around and 110 degree ambient temps, tinted windows help with heat buildup and what sun can do to upholstery. I often find I have the roll down the windows to make a right turn or back out of spot with traffic, but with the 2015 and backup camera it is much easier to back up. If I didn't live in the desert or someplace else with many days of sun and high temps, I probably wouldn't tint the windows. 2 of the last 3 cars I drove didn't have tinted windows, but the top of the back seats and the seats in general show it, pretty bleached out.

As long as the Fusion has been around, Ford has not included the part number for the spark plugs in the owners manual for some reason. Older vehicles had it listed (like my 2000 Grand Marquis and my 97 Cougar and 97 Mark VIII), but nothing recent, maybe around 2006 or so. parts.ford.com is the Motorcraft parts lookup page, Rockauto shows the same one, but I guess you can go to the parts counter of the dealership to confirm and get them.

I own both (a 2012 Fusion Sport AWD and a 2015 Fusion SE 2.5), I personally like the style of the 2012, love the V6 over the Ecoboost engine. I got the 2015 for my daughter as her first car. It was 2x as much as mine, but 3 years newer and 70k fewer miles. With the 2.5 it is a little underpowered, more so now that she lived in Denver. It does okay here in the lower elevation desert, but still leaves me wanting more power. Both of them have terrible rear visibility. 2012 because the rear end is up so much higher than the front, and both because of the spoilers. 2015 has a backup camera and video screen. even though it is only the small screen, it works well (when it works). 2012 I do a lot of tentative backing up. Both have very dark tint all around which hurts the side and rear view out the windows (and side view mirrors). If you like the more modern styling, can afford and want a little newer car, and find them to be a better value, I say go for the newest one that meets your needs, that is what I did for my daughter, who would want a little more modern looking vehicle. Other than the hit in mileage, she loves driving mine (the 2012) until she has to back out of a parking space. The nearly 100 hp more, AWD, and a different shifting transmission are better than her 2015. On an identical drive in both vehicles (Denver to Tucson, 5280 feet to higher elevations a few times down to 2500) I got 27 mpg in my 2012, and 31 in the 2015. Around town the difference is much larger. I found the 2.5 required shifting down a couple of times to 4th gear in hills that my 2012 maintained speed via cruise control and never down shifted. But with identical power trains (the 2.5 and the 6F35 transmission) you will see nearly the same performance, fuel mileage, and drivability between a 2010-2012 and a 2013 and newer. The small ecoboost gets good mileage and has better drivability than then 2.5, but the added complexity of the turbo and direct injection and other things (I got the 1.5L in an Escape and like it better than the 2.5).

According to parts.ford.com for your 2012 with the 2.5 it is the Motorcraft SP530 Iridium plug.

Fuse 29 (in the BJB under the hood) is for the power point under the radio. Fuse 22 (in the BJB under the hood) is for the power point in the console. I don't think it powers the USB connector though (but it might...), so if all of them are inop (AUX isn't powered) might be something different, they are probably all on the same harness/connector.

There are hundreds and hundreds of thousands of this car and many many more of this transmission out there that have no problems with the transmission with well over 100/200k miles. I assume this is a 2.5 I4 or a 3.0 V6? It was in service in some Fords since 2007 and GM cars since 2007(!!). A lot depends on the miles and care and fluid changes (which at 150k for first one way to many miles). I don't think there is and specific inherent issue with the first gen 6F35, personally I think they are under-rated for the V6 and there were some improvements made starting in 2013. I assume you are testing cars and finding them with odd shifting? While most I drove were Sports with the Aisin transmission, I did drive quite a few 3.0, very few 2.5, 2010-2012 Fusions, and none of the exhibited any bad shifting behavior. I also drove Focus looking for a vehicle for my daughter and found nearly all of them suffered from the DCT issues and passed them up for a 2015 Fusion.

I don't think they share any logic or power in common normally (the lights don't use the clockspring which would be a common failure point). Does it have any sort of added on alarm? I doubt it is something like a weak battery but does the horn just honk once when the lights come on, or continuous? Was there any work done (I don't know if it had an airbag recall or not) or anything major happen before this started, or has it always done it (like it is a recent vehicle for you)?