bangster

You need to actually drive (go faster than 12 mph) before autounlock will function (so it if you just started and stopped it without driving they won't). Also autounlock doesn't function when going to Park, it is when you turn the key off or to accessory.

Those are inserts and still requires parts of the OEM grilles to install, so it still might require an OEM grille depending on what all happened to the damaged one.

Auto headlights have a sensor and only turn on once dark, they are not always on.

Yes, different than the 1.5 Premium sound. It is 8 speakers; 2 subs in rear deck (subs), speakers in all 4 doors (these do seem to be 2 way), and high mount tweeters in the front doors. The Lincoln adds the THX center sub in the rear and CSA front left/right/center speakers.

The mic for SYNC is above the drivers head and towards the door, I don't think it is noise cancelling, nor do I think it has any for any other purpose.

They should be stored even if no longer happening, as historical. So when this happens you press the gas pedal and it doesn't rev up all right? I would expect to see the wrench light and the check engine light and it should set codes. That is different than when you press the gas pedal the engine revs up but the car doesn't move. Also depending on the miles might be covered by the factory powertrain warranty.

There are a couple of things that could cause it, the codes should help track it down, be it TB or fuel pressure or fuel tank not venting. Depending on the state, there are rules in place to help in just this situation, and they also might just want to do right to protect their name. I purchased my 2015 Fusion from a dealer that mainly did higher end and unusual vehicles, but they got the mundane in on trade and to keep cars flowing and have inventory. In the first 2 days the battery died in it. I expected to make a trip to replace it, but my daughter called them and they replaced the battery for free. I doubt anything in the contract or from selling it says they had to do that, and it is a wear item, but we were referred there by someone that bought a higher end vehicle, and it seemed like a reputable place (they fixed a few things between buying it and taking it off the lot).

But you should still get sound from the rear door speakers if you have the fader to rear only, but the rear deck are subs only.

Audiophile is the registered name of the company that did the system (hardware, or design), were they somehow related to another company like Clarion...I don't have a clue. It is possible the door speakers are 2 way, they didn't seem like it when I saw some in the junk yard, but I really wasn't paying that much attention. And this might not be a THX system with 3 subs and the front/center channels either, not sure that might be the Lincoln setup (like it is for Gen 1.5).

Audiophile was the name brand of the company that did the 8 speaker system. I don't quite understand how they say 8 speakers but all configurations I see are 9 or 12. Rear deck is only subs (3?), then front and rear door mids, and front door tweeters (for 9?). I don't know if you have the CSA THX mids and center or not, that would be 12 speakers... I also think that the amps are split left and right (so all left side speakers are on one amp, same for right). The center sub is on the right amp, the center CSA is on the left amp.

I would check it for codes, and was the wrench light and the check engine light on? Any other details on the vehicle, like miles, engine, etc? It doesn't sound transmission related but perhaps throttle body related, but I am sure it set some codes.

I have seen some threads like on the Forscan forum because you need to do some bit switching to support the separated brake and turns. Personally I hate amber turns in many situations, like when emergency flashers are on but not brake lights, is it the front of a car on the other side of the road or the back of one on my side. My 2017 Escape has amber turns, the 2019 doesn't, I might go the opposite way.

I can guarantee that after the first dozen or so they get shortcuts to drop the labor time involved in doing the job. I am sure that they find just how far they can bend the dash and not need to fully disconnect it, or don't secure the unattached steering wheel/column, etc. At first just to get the job done in the given time frame, but then to get even lower than the specified time to complete it. I know someone that has done quite a few of these, and he has posted pictures of it, and I am not sure if I want to see my car in that amount of disassembly, or even more as I am sure they are supposed to do.

Usually this is only in modified/tuned cars, especially turbo cars, but I think some of this is normal even for a stock car. Once spooled and you let off the gas the blow off valve has to let the compressed air escape. I think I have had this happen with my 2017 Escape with the 1.5 GTDI engine but I have never tried to replicate it. I know I am not going to get that aftermarket whoosh sound or anything fun like that, and I try to stay out of boost as much as possible to keep the fuel mileage up.

The owners manual states they are for charging as well as data for thumb drives and other media devices. Is it an Apple or Android device? Are you using it for Carplay/Android auto? Do you get prompts on the phone like it is trying to do USB mode maybe? Sometimes mine asks me if I want to enable OTP connection when I plug it in and don't do Android Auto.

In my 2017 Escape the ports don't supply enough amps to charge a phone if it is in use (with Android Auto or Apple Carplay). If the display is off, they seem to maintain, but if for some reason the display is on, they are discharging. But it doesn't go between the two. I wonder if a better cable might help, or if the phone doesn't like the amps or the signal that is there to see what type of charging it can do. The port in my 2012 Fusion won't charge very fast either, less than 60 ma which won't charge a small battery device like Bluetooth ear buds.

I made a checklist from all the things people here have posted as broken after the service. I doubt the service manager will sit with me as we go over it all and check it off a list before and after the service. Last dealer tech side visit for me they left a rag in the airbox. Last 2 quick lane LOF side they left a wad of nasty paper towels in it and didn't rotate the tires (I marked them to be curious if they just went front to back or not). I will probably document everything working in a video and then check again and go from there.

I don't think the Fusion got the twin-scroll 2.0 until 2017. While I think the blocks are the same, the head and intake are a single casting, and there other differences. I don't know if that is what you mean by improved. I don't think they are easily directly swappable. I am guessing it is the service item https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=10144937 from 8-2018 that is being referred to where the block and/or head are no longer serviceable? I don't know if this covers the gen 1 2.0 GTDI, the twin-scroll, or both. I see different year ranges in different documents. The Edge got it starting in 2015.

My 2015 that was bought used came with the MPC style one, that is around $120. I think it depends on some specs on the car as to how plug and play it is, but looking at my 2015 there is a harness. It reuses the factory remote to start (press lock 3 times), so it has the same range. My daughter loves it living where it gets cold and they get some snow. I have always had remote starts for AC and the heat, even my older 1989 Cougar had remote start. I haven't added it to my 2012 yet, but likely will. I am pretty sure that it and an alarm were added by a dealer, probably the original seller. They don't just install the Ford one, I think they find more value from this one.

Love the color and the splitter! With it being that color some outdoor shots with some sun would really show it off, and some further away and different perspective ones, but it is obvious that it isn't stock but being body color it blends well (not carbon fiber with the yellow stripe), would be noticeable to some but others it would look like it just belongs. Love the car too, 1.6 GTDI with manual transmission, I only found one when I was looking for mine (I wasn't really looking for a gen 2, but if I did get one for me, it would be that combo) but they wanted more than I was looking to spend.

Quite an impressive feat and good info. I was aiming for 333,333 out of my last car, but as you mention, as soon as you start letting things go, they stop behaving. I let enough little things build up that eventually I just didn't enjoy driving it, and let it get even worse.

All 4 of those are dealing with the the HVB, and 2 deal the service disconnect. Page 156 in your Owners Manual shows that you fold down the seat, and the disconnect is there, I am not sure I follow where it is, but it is different PHEV and HEV, but there are pictures and steps.

Definitely get the codes read. If you don't have a code reader then many/most auto parts stores will do it for you, just be sure to get the code and not let them interpret it for you or give you the text version. I am guessing once you have that and search for that code here or just a google search it will be EVAP purge valve related.

I didn't do much measuring in the rear, but in the front, this seems to be the most important part to look for clearance, the spindle and the UBJ. This is the OEM Sport 18 inch tire/wheel:

Even though we know it is an Energi from the forum you posted to, year and model would be helpful as there are changes from 2013-2019 and differences between Intelligent Access key and not, even with push button start. That fault is generally associated with the HVB. If you can you might also try to get any DTC errors present, but it likely means a trip to the dealer. The HVB I think is covered to 100k.