Red86

I certainly will let you guys know. I greatly appreciate the help! Just ordered the part and now I am waiting for it to come in!! I'll keep the car in the garage until then! Lastly, I've read mixed things regarding dielectric Greese and connectors such as those for the MAF, ETB, etc. Is it recommended to clean those with electrical cleaner and then apply a bit of dielectric greese before hooking them back up?

Thank you so much for the reply! In November of 2019 I purchased a remanufactured 6F35. I apologize for the title saying "new". I could see how that could draw a bit of confusion. I'll definitely look at getting a replacement c clamp to secure it on the nipple. I have a side question if you don't mind and that I have your attention. With the understanding that this is internet diagnosing, I have been getting a rough idle for awhile now when at a light and the engine is warm. Replaced the EGR, MAF, ETB, Spark plugs, Coils, fuel pump has accurate pressure, etc. However, I found that the MAF has a gasket. Could an MAF that does not have this gasket cause a vacuum leak?m or driveability issues? I appreciate your response on this left field question.

Bump?

Greetings all, Been having symptoms of a vacuum leak for a while now at warm temps (no DTC'S). While looking around at hoses, gaskets, etc I noticed that this port hole or vent was exposed on top of the tranny. There is a hose that has one end open and the top end is joined where the dipstick goes to the tranny if that makes sense? To me it seems like it is some type of pressure vent. Anyways, the hose fits in top of the hole perfectly but wasn't sure if it was meant to be open or covered with the small hose? Any clarification would be great!

As previously stated, I had a very bad vibration that was thought to be due to motor mounts. I drove the car yesterday and noticed that when I would be approaching a stop, the car wanted to stall. I will note that for around 3 months I have noticed that the car would hesitate going up hills. Anyways, the car would want to stall out (rpm's would drop then bounce up) and a horrible vibration and rattle noise would present itself in near the upper strut mount. Last night, I went out and made sure there was no oil in the tubes, no vacuum leaks around the replaced valve cover gasket, reseated the coils, and checked the vacuum lines. I didn't find anything unusual. This morning, I decided to take it back to the shop and when I turned on the car, I didn't feel the horrible vibration! The car drove great to the gas station approx 1 mile down the road, but when I filled up and turned the car on I felt the vibration and rattle come back. Took it to the shop and dropped it off. 2 hours later, he called me and told me that a fuel injector pigtail was going bad and once they saudered it back together it ran perfect. When I asked how they found it, he said that the tech was poking the injector wires and when he got to the #1 injector the engine ran normal. When he released the pressure on the pigtail, the rough idle came back. They ended up not charging me and said that the shop foreman is going to test drive it today for 5-10 miles and if anything pops up they will let me know. Im curious on why this didn't light a DTC?

Thanks for responding bbf, I know over the internet diagnosing can be somewhat pointless, but the only thing I can think of is that maybe some oil got where the spark plugs sit and is causing the misfire when idling? I'm not mechanic, but wouldn't a CEL pop on if one was misfiring at anytime while the car is on? One last thing and I'll leave you guys alone, but what are the torque specs for all 3 mounts? I have tried to search google relentlessly, but I can't find it. Also, the manual doesn't have it either. Thank you

Hi all, Recently got all 3 motor mounts on my 2011 Fusions Se 2.5l r&r (4th time) because I had some vibration in the car with impact noises when putting it in Drive and Reverse. They also found that I had a minor valve cover gasket leak so the gasket was replaced as well. Before I picked up the car, I called to make sure that they torqued the mounts to spec. They also used new bolts which has a loctite material on them. When I got the car back, I turned on the car and I could tell right away something was wrong. The car was vibrating ten times worse than what it was before. I turned on the A/C and when the compressor kicked in it was a little bit scary. I pulled the car to the front of the shop and while I was turning, the vibration would get worse. I pulled around to the front of the shop and they said that since they are new mounts they need to "Break in" and if I didn't have any improvement within 100 miles to take it back. I can tell that the car doesn't have any movement of the engine while shifting gears like it did before, but that vibration is pretty alarming. I checked under the hood and everything looked good and clean around the coils, etc. Any thoughts?

Morning all, I have 2.5l fusion SE with 97k. I recently put in some techron at my last fill up because I was having issues with hesitation during acceleration up hills and on the highway; no codes. SInce then, the engine has been running a bit rough at certain times. I have noticed that when I shift in to drive or reverse I get a little "click" from the engine bay (motor mounts were installed in September 2019 and new tranny went in on November/2019). I can also feel some movement when I let go of the accelerator and there is a downshift. Prior to the treatment I had no issues with engine movement, etc. I have read that the treatment can cause the engine to run rough which make me think that it could possibly cause the engine to move? The tank is currently at 121 miles to empty so I may just see if the next tank of gas smooths it out. Sounds pretty ridiculous, but I'm not sure if I should go to a shop and see if the mounts are bad, or to wait and see if the next tank of gas helps. WOuld greatly appreciate your input as I couldn't find anything on the web or in the forum via search tool.

Hi everybody, I hope everyone is safe. I am seeing some dried oil on the valve cover and suspect it is time to replace since the car has 97k. Before I do that, I am curious if the gasket can cause any performance issues with the car? I know it can if the oil gets in the spark plug holes, but if it hasn't, can there still be issues? Should I get a new cover or do I need to replace any seals or can I just use everything I take off minus the gasket? Also, what is the torque setting for the bolts? Thanks all

So upon further inspection I noticed the bushings for the upper control arms were rusted, cracked, and visually worn on both left and right sides. Took it to the mechanic as I was having MAJOR issues and he confirmed that they were bad. Got them replaced and now the car drives great. Although I still drive the car like a grandma, I can rest assured (for now) that it wasn't the subframe. Thanks for all the help.

Thank you for the reply. Forgive me for typos, I am on my cell. I have used this same dealership for 3 of my most recent repairs: transmission replacement, EPS recall, and all 4 control arms. I like to think I have s good relationship with them, but it is a dealership so you never know. With that being said, they have always provided good service and has never led me astray. I will say that I have been so focused on that subframe that I completely forgot that the car has upper co¡trol arms! So a quick glance in to the wheel well with the tire in I can see white cracks on the 2 bushings. This is for both sides with a total of 4 worn bushings (pretty sure they are bushings, could be ball joints). Those have never been replaced under my ownership and the car has 94k. Also, I am hoping they replace the struts too. Those have never been replaced. In April of 2018 the strut mounts were replaced at a Ford dealership in a different town. So I hope that they swap the struts out due to milage. But visually it looks good with no leaks. I am probably going to take it to the dealership, bit may take it to a Independent shop whom I completely trust. He is just always backed up 2 or 3 weeks so i don't like waiting. Hoping to get everything addressed; my extended warranty expire 01/2021.

Thanks for replying @bbf2530 Sorry for not clarifying. I dropped the car off at the dealership at the beginning of January for the 4 LCA replacement. So about a mo th and a half of driving. Before I dropped the car off at the dealership, I attempted to do the R&R of the LCA myself. I did the driver side front LCA but when I moved to the rearward LCA and was trying to tighten the bolt, it kept spinning and wouldn't bite. That's when I realized the nut snapped off. I was replacing the LCA with all moog parts. Side note: this car has been full of issues. In November/2018 my tranny blew and I had to buy a Ford Remanufactured 6F35. The warranty company thought I was driving like a mad man and held off 2 weeks to have a third party mechanic come by and verify the failure; which was burnt clutches. Anyways, since then they have been weary cause I have used them for 10+ repairs (NEVER buy a car from carmax). Back to the main story, when I dropped the car off at the dealership and they saw the nut was off and I had a moog driver side front LCA on, the advisor suggested that they warranty company will say I snapped the nut while putting on the LCA and that will void a possible claim with them. So we went with the repair as I tampered with it. I called the advisor yesterday and left a VM saying that I will be dropping it off sometime next week and to give me an estimate on the subframe; ford.com shows it to be about $650, but who know how much for labor.. The advisor said in mid February after I called him to ask him a question, he me tioned to use the extended warranty as a claim, we would have to prove that the subframe was broken and that would be an issue. I thought to myself that if the nut is broken, then it would be easy to show that it is broken? I know that was a lot, sorry for that. Alignment to spec, you are referring to the wheels right?

Evening all, Recently, I was replacing all 4 of my front control arms but when I lowered the subframe to remove the rearward control arm bolt. I noticed that the nut broke. Unable to fix it, I dropped it off at the dealer. They confirmed the issue and suggested that they fix it by rewelding the nut back in to the subframe. Since I was using my extended warranty as a claim for the 4 FCA's, I opted to pay out of pocket for the subframe repair. They also did an alignment after. For a while, all was well. The car drove like new as I had just replaced the tie rods, sway bar links. However, I gradually noticed that my car would start tracking left or right while driving. More importantly, I started to hear clunking/thumping noises while travelling at low to medium speeds going over depressions and bumps. At times, I can feel the car shudder under light gradual acceleration. These depressions and bumps are not big enough to cause these noises as I have driven over them thousands of times when I first got the car in 2016. My question, if they were able to re weld it, would that cause less than perfect performance for new control arms? I don't see how I could still have the SAME issues as before on the driver side. Also,had EPS unit replaced in late 2018 per recall and strut mounts in early 2018. Struts looks fine with no leaks and the CV axle (aftermarket installed in 2017) on the driver side looks good without the wheel off. Completely stumped. Only thing I can think of is the strut, or the subframe fix didn't work. Service manager says the R&R of the subframe is thousands of dollars.

Here she is everybody. Should get it back Monday.

Perfect. Thank you for that.