asicking

I have the same question for the same vehicle today. Anybody have any guidance? Thanks.

My car had 250K+ miles on it BEFORE I tweaked it. It was getting fuel efficiency in the 40s when I traded it in with 380K miles. I don’t hypermile but I am mindful. Maybe that’s the difference.

These numbers, in the 30s are very surprising to me. My 2010 hybrid dropped to the mid-30s BEFORE I applied the fix about 2 years ago then jumped to low 40s for the almost 75k miles I drove following the fix.

What!? Holy cow!

2010 hybrid -- just clicked over to 374K miles

JAlexs, I have 369K miles on my 2010 FFH. It has been 412 days and almost 57K miles since I applied “the fix”. My mpg over those miles is 42.2. During extreme heat or cold it dips to 37 to 40, and during spring and autumn it ranges from 41 to 48. I’m thinking of replacing it eventually with another, hopefully with around 100K miles.

I’d have it tested. My 2010 has almost 360K miles and I’m getting almost 43mpg long term average.

Refer to owners manual for details but it’s a simple matter of pressing the info button on the left hand side of steering wheel repeatedly until mpg is selected and then press the reset button that is adjacent to the info button

OK...that's a start. But keep in mind that when you first reset it, the number will fluctuate wildly with every start, stop, acceleration...the number is almost meaningless until you've driven significant miles. And even then you can see dramatic differences. For example, when I jump on the highway with no traffic and cruise 20 miles at 70 mph, I get something in the mid-30s, or less if the A/C is on. On the other hand, on a nice spring day like today with no heat or A/C and driving on rural roads without much stop and go, I'll easily get 50 to 55 mpg for 20 miles.

Reset the MPG and watch it after several trips. Or, do like me and record odometer and gallons used at every fill up and do the math. I do a lot of business travel so I keep these records for tax purposes.

Yikes! Sounds like your car either has something else wrong with it or the “fix” wasn’t actually completed. My 300K+ miles 2010 went from mid-30s to low 40s immediately when I completed the change last August.

Yikes! Sounds like your car either has something else wrong With it or the “fix” wasn’t actually completed. My 300K+ miles 2010 went from mid-30s to low 40s immediately when I completed the change last August.

I too am enjoying the results of this "fix". After 9 months and almost 40K miles I'm getting consistent mpg in the low 40s. And the car had over 300K when the fix was applied. I'm not a car nut, but getting 40+ mpg on a nearly 10 year old car with 350K miles seems pretty remarkable.

The TSB number mirak was asking about is 20-2142

I have ‘em use synthetic oil on 10k mile intervals. I don’t recall having ever touched tranny fluid, though I agree it seems reasonable to expect it should need something after 330k miles. Sorry, I am probably the last person from whom to seek automotive maintenance advice

I live and drive in New England. I drive about 5K to 6K miles per month. I applied the fix at the end of August. September mpg was almost 45; now with some cold wintry weather it is dropping to about 40. This is consistent with what I observed when the car was new (it now is approaching 330K miles). My research indicated that replacement batteries cost a few thousand dollars. There are also places that claim some sort of battery restoration services. Neither of which make economic sense to me for a car with significant miles on it. In my case, using actual gas prices I'm finding that I've saved about $100 in fuel costs (I subtracted the $25 I paid for the OBD scanner) over the 17k miles I've driven since the fix.

Given that I applied “the fix” at 300k+ on the odometer and saw my average mpg jump from 37 mpg to 44 mpg I’m questioning just how much impact mileage has on battery life. Note: I got the 44mpg average over about 20k miles of mixed highway and city driving — on short rural trips I frequently get 50+.

My results are similar. Since I installed the “fix”, I’ve driven 13350 miles and burned 305 gallons - so about 43.8 mpg. This was combined highway and suburban and rural driving. It was averaging 37 - 38 mpg before that. That has saved me about $80 in gas spending after accounting for the $28 investment in the OBD scanner

Sorry for confusion I may have caused. I can confirm that the green bar goes no higher than to the 3rd line on the display, as stated above. It does not go a little bit above half.

My green level I think maybe goes up just above half way. I don’t pay much attention. If your experience is like mine, you’ll see the EV mode immediately operating like it did before its dramatic change.

Since I applied the fix at 300k miles I went from about 37-38 mpg to 43-46 mpg. On trips through rural areas (max speed 40 mph, infrequent stops) I get 55mpg+. I also have better quick acceleration from a full stop. If I were you I would install the fix and keep searching for help (or just take the car in for service) on the surging issue. I’m in New England; this summer my wrench light came on frequently after high speeds combined with warm temps, even after the fix. I haven’t seen it since weather has cooled.

It’s all in the original post to which you are commenting. Every detail, every step; it’s all there. This link should take you to it: https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/19361-my-instructions-on-restoring-the-hybrid-ev-function-on-the-ford-fusion-hybrid-approaching-the-89-years-mark/

I’m kind of amazed that my 2010 is still going strong with 318K miles (and getting 43 to 48 MPG since resetting the battery age). Anybody else seeing this kind of lifespan?

I just did this fix to my 2010 FFH with 312K miles. Yesterday I was getting 37-38 mpg. This afternoon after the procedure I got 45 mpg (just under 100 miles of around town and rural driving). Also, a weird throttle lag went away. My whip can jump off the line again.