toothlesrooster

Yes, no codes.

Basically plugs but also went ahead and replaced air filter and did oil change and performed the relearn procedure (someone mentioned that might help). I also inspected the throttle body and MAF to see if they needed to be cleaned. They did not.

Ugh, I have another issue with the Fusion. It's had a rough idle when in gear for a while now. I did a full tune up and that didn't effect it. Just this past week it's started bucking and will die after it's warmed up and driven for 20 or more minutes. I get no codes, no wrench symbol on the dash. Fuel economy seems unchanged. It generally starts fine. It will crank a few times when it dies and when I pop it in gear I have to jam on the gas and once it gets up to 5 or 10 mph it will smooth out but if I don't do that it will die every time and it continues to die when I pull up to stops. If I park it and let it set for a few minutes, it will drive fine for a bit and then back to bucking and stalling. It does feel down on power after this issue starts and I get past the bucking. I've replaced the fuel pump and throttle body as all the research I can find pointed to those being the problem. I've found a few people on forums and such after an exhaustive search that seem to have had the same exact problem I'm having, but people are HORRIBLE about coming back and updating people on the fix once they resolve the issue. Any one have any thoughts? Thanks in advance, Gavin

I thought I would update this with the solution. Turns out that even though the alternator tested good twice from O'reilly's and multiple times from my own ODB tester, the alternator was bad. Even after replacing it with an aftermarket alternator, which turned out to be bad out of the box from O'Reilly's. Kept getting worse and worse until I had near constant surging as well as traction control and ABS errors. Power steering was going out intermittently as well. Had my local dealer trouble shoot it and replace the alternator. All is well, now.

Sorry, misspelled that. It's a Zurich ZR8.

I have a Urich ZR8 and have checked for codes. Mine isn't the base model and has quite a few features for the price but it doesn't read SRS codes. I'm not asking for everyone else to diagnose my problems, I'm just needing to be pointed in the general direction and so far, you all have done that. I still have my old doors and am going to swap out my impact sensor as it was working fine before I replaced the doors. Thank you all for your help so far. If this doesn't work I'll look into borrowing or finding someone with a more advanced scanner that can tell me exactly what my SRS error is.

The battery was not disconnected when we swapped the doors but I have an extra battery and did swap it to test. The battery has been removed twice, but not for more than a minute or so. Is there a reset procedure? I know on my wife's Dodge Journey, the reset procedure is to remove the battery completely and then touch the negative and positive cables together for so many seconds. Then re-install the battery. It honestly didn't even dawn on me to disconnect the battery when doing a door swap. I guess I could pull the impact sensor out of the old door and install it in the new door. Is the impact sensor a one-time use kind of thing? The car I got the door from was a front end collision. The air bags didn't deploy though.

I really haven't done any electrical testing like this. What am I looking for? Is this on the front door boot or both? I replaced both front and rear passenger side door. And like I said, no issues with the old doors. Thanks for the help!

I replaced both of my passenger side doors from a donor car from 2012. Same engine and seemingly same options. Do I need to take it to a dealer to have it flashed? Both doors were kind of caved in after a co-worker backed into my vehicle. I had no airbag lights before swapping the doors, the lights have been on since.

No ideas?

I bought a better ODBII testing tool and ran a diagnostics. Even though the CEL didn't come on and no codes were stored, after the Ford Diag it caught a p0625 code "Generator Field Terminal Circuit Low". Where are all of the ground locations, besides the battery ground, for me to check?

I have. Battery terminals and cables are in good shape. I will dig a bit further tonight on all of the other connections involved in the charging system. Could it possibly be bad grounds somewhere? Talking to my buddy that does this for a living seems to think that with this kind of mileage my brushes or armature could be pretty badly worn causing some of these issues. Gavin

Hey all, obviously new here and was hoping to pick your brains. I have a 2010 SE 2.5 with 160k that's been the picture of reliability. Last night the "battery/charging system" light came on and when I pulled into the driveway I noticed that at idle the headlights were flickering a bit and the blower motor in the dash was fluctuating a bit too. Battery is/was at full charge and when running the car was charging at around 14v. It starts and drives fine. This morning (temps in the mid 50's) it started and no light, drove to work fine. About an hour later I got back in my car to head to a different site and the light was back on. I took it to O'Reilly's and had it tested. The battery and alternator tested fine, but when load testing while running the RPM's would drop very low and almost die. The battery is 10 months old. I have a friend that works for a company that builds/rebuilds automotive electrical and compressors and he said it wouldn't surprise him if the brushes were short as it's the original. Any thoughts? Thanks! Gavin