nanookvd

Update - After taking out some of the fluid, problem has not resurfaced. Root cause is pointing to either a little too much brake fluid in the system to allow for thermal expansion or a momentary plug of the equalization ports. We'll continue driving her and report back if any problems resurface.

Update - Found the brake booster check valve which tested OK. Brakes didn't lock while the vehicle was in park and pressing the brake pedal. Took it to the local dealer and they want to replace both the master cylinder & the booster (6 months since replaced) to the tune of $ 1,300. Leaning towards replacing the master cylinder myself but car is at a college out of state.

2009 Mercury Milan I4 with about 150k miles. About 6 months ago, I replaced the brake booster that went bad. About 2 months ago, I brought the car in for the ABS HCU recall. It passed and the fluid/cap was changed over to Dot 4. Car has been driven w/o any issues since then. My son is now experiencing the brakes locking up on him after a few minutes of driving. He said heat was coming off all 4 wheels and the car didn't pull to one side which points me to a central, not individual wheel, issue. After pulling off to the side and turning the car off and letting it sit for a couple minutes, the pressure releases and he can drive a few minutes again before the issue comes back. The brake fluid was at the max level with the vehicle cold so I had him take a small amount out in case of expansion. Checking to see if anyone can point me in a direction to what could be the cause? I will ask him to let the car sit in idle to see if the brakes lock up by themselves without pressing the brake pedal. Does this car have a brake booster check valve? I didn't see one. This is a possible culprit as would be the master cylinder.

Appears Ford has decided to move forward and replace the HCU units free of charge. I received a letter a couple weeks ago, Customer Satisfaction Program 21N11. After 19S45/20S14 (replacement of DOT3 to DOT4 fluid & performance test) has been completed, and you're still not happy with the brake pedal travel, they will replace the HCU free of charge. This is a one time service and does have an expiration date of 15 years after vehicle has been put into service (purchase date). If your vehicle is 2007 or earlier, you have until the end of this year to get the HCU replaced.

Thank you. I hope so as well. No reason both of these Milans can't make it to over 200k miles.

Dealer pulled the P0763 fault code again. They said the solenoid was sticking and replaced it at no charge. Car has been working well without any issues since. Hoping we have finally solved this issue.

Ugh, after 3 weeks of perfect operation, the same symptoms have come back after replacing the solenoid valve and TCM. My son took it back to the dealer to see if they can find the electrical gremlin that plagues this vehicle.

Hard to diagnose the vehicle without knowing its maintenance history, transmission fluid level, 2.3L or 3.0L, etc. Has either the orange wrench or check engine lights illuminated? I had this happen to one of my vehicles 2x with the orange wrench light illuminated. Both times, the TCM (Transmission Control Module) by the brake pedal had to be replaced which solved the problem. 1st time, I fixed on my own replacing the entire valve body and sourcing a used TCM on ebay. Second time, through a dealer since the car was out of state. My speculation is that a weak battery and/or short of one of the solenoid valves in the transmission valve body takes out the TCM causing hard and erratic shifting, including reverse. Be prepared for the following course of action at the Dealer as they have to follow proper troubleshooting procedures: 1. ~ $ 450 for initial diagnosis and verification of wiring/solenoid function (pin test). 2. ~ $ 600 to replace one of the solenoids in the transmission valve body which involves dropping the transmission pan, changing the solenoid, filter, & new fluid. 3. ~ $ 1,100 if above doesn't solve the problem and they replace the TCM. I negotiated this down to cost ~ $600 since 1 & 2 didn't solve the problem. Again, this was my experience and may not be applicable to yours. Beware that a transmission shop's first recommendation will be to replace the transmission for about $4k. The cars are very solid mechanically when taken care of. The electronics are the weak link and can make it seem you have a mechanical issue. Best of luck

2nd visit at Dealer and they were able to duplicate the problem. They dropped the transmission pan and replaced shift solenoid C along with new transmission filter & fluid for $950 which didn't solve the problem. They ended up replacing the TCM which so far has solved the issue. They took care of the labor and charged the TCM at cost so total damage was about $ 1,600.00 and 3 visits to get this repaired.

Agreed. Very difficult getting a well equipped car for under $35k These cars can easily get you 150k with proper maintenance & care. They just weren't that profitable for the company since they lasted so long in addition to the market shift to SUV's. Hope you get many miles/years from your vehicle.

After about 4-5 days of driving, the orange wrench light and hard shift has returned. Took it to the dealer and they were able to pull code P0763, shift solenoid C circuit. Pin check did not find any faults. They took the vehicle for a 60 mile drive and could not replicate the issue. Will be returning vehicle tomorrow to see if they can determine what is causing the issue.

This problem cropped up again after about 30k miles. Replaced battery which was going on 3 years. Solved issue

(2) 2009 Mercury Milans 2.3L, going strong 145k and 175k

Car looks great! You picked a great design Love these vehicles. Solid dependable runners if properly maintained. I have 2 Mercury Milans from 2009 and have kept them running well, one with 175k and 145k.

I started having problems with the Orange Wrench & rough shifting on my vehicle again. I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight. Reconnected the battery and car worked fine for about 20 miles. Knew it wasn't a mechanical issue. Seemed heat was affecting some electrical component. Took a hunch that the battery was getting weak being almost 3 years old. Replaced the battery which solved the issue.