Mr.Fusion

My '18 Energi SE Luxury was - See my post pinned in the Accessories and Modification section for the breakdown. The active shutters in my car threw a proverbial wrench in the works, but I muddled through.

There is an L2 charging station about a mile from work where I could go, but not in 20° weather! Maybe when it warms up I'll start doing that and convert all my commuting to electric. I get between 15 and 18 miles per HVB charge due to all the hills around here. I've altered my driving procedures as I've become more familiar with the car. It helps to see real-time feedback of coasting, regen braking, time under power, etc. for improving efficiency. If I get "antsy" for more "spirited" driving, I get in the GTO and very efficiently convert dinosaurs to water vapor, heat, and grins! As my buddy with his '17 GT350 says - It's all about "Smiles per Mile"!

The non-metallic "baby blue" was only used until 1965, IIRC. And we had a '63 Lemans with the 1/2 389 and the two speed auto in the back. Delorean was one crazy dude!

They've been pretty expensive for a long time now. My dad had an "extra" set of them bought back in the 80s when they weren't as ridiculous. I had them powder-coated body-color, polished the fin edges, then coated the entire drum in high-temp 2k clear coat. So far no discoloration, chipping, or shedding. The other set of 8-lugs are on our '64 2+2, 421 tri-power 4-speed. That resto is next using all the lessons learned from this resto.

DrOlds- Thanks - It was a 4 year resto process, all done in my garage except the engine / trans rebuilds and seats / headliner. Car's been in my family for 32 years. Ain't worth a fraction of the resto costs to anyone but us. Some pics from the resto, starting with the donor frame.

Figured as much - I've been out of the Duratec world for more than a few years while I owned my '12 Focus. The last motor in my Cougar was a forged 3.0L with SVT cams and an intercooled T3/4 60-trim .82A/R. 390fwhp, pretty much useless below 3rd gear. If the VVT programming can be "tweaked" (only by someone competent to do so!), the range of timing shift can up the power curve a bit, but without a custom set of camshafts (which would be more expensive than just getting a Fusion Sport, I'll bet), you're pretty much relegated to the stock cam profile.

Thanks for the feedback. Hope it's helpful. I should mention that the LED fog lights are not the "standard" halogens for the non-Energi / non-Titanium Fusions. The Energis came with LED fog lights, as they are 11W each - Less power to save the Energi's battery. If anyone ends up finding the correct part numbers for the front bumper harness with the active shutter wires integrated, please feel free to post up! Dan

Back in the day, I built a "hybrid" 2.5L / 3.0L Duratec engine for my '99 Cougar. It used the block of an early ('01) 3.0L Duratec and the heads and cams from a 2.5L SVT Contour. The cams were static (i.e. not variable) and were higher performance via more duration and lift than the regular cams. That was many years ago, and the SVT cams from those days drove the water pump via a pulley on the back of the Bank 2 intake cam- Thus, it had to either be cut off via lathe or you had to convert the cooling system to the rear water pump style of those cars. The cams were good for 250 crank hp and the torque of the "hybrid's" 11.2:1 compression ratio. Not much compared to today's specs. What is your car, and what are you looking to do with it?

Hey there. My name's Dan. I've owned Fords since the beginning, which for me was 1990. The wife's in a new Explorer. I also own a few other cars. My 2012 Focus Titanium Hatch was on its 6th clutch at 72k miles when I finally drew the line. I started the extremely long, infuriating 3 month process to have Ford buy it back under the terms of the Class Action Settlement for Focus / Fiestas with the dual-clutch automatic. They eventually cut me a check for over twice KBB on it, so it was worth it ? My local dealer had a cherry '17 Fusion Energi Titanium on the lot with 20k miles which they reserved, but the Ford RAV (Re-Acquired Vehicles) buyback process took so long that the dealer sold it out from under me. To make up for the mistake, they found me a new Ruby Red '18 SE Luxury Energi and transferred it up to me for free. I took delivery almost two months ago. I installed a Webasto Ford-branded Level 2 charging station outside my garage to charge up "Mr. Fusion", as my son calls it, by tapping a new 40A breaker off my 220V garage subpanel originally for my welders / plasma cutter. I'm a DIY guy. I'm also an old Pontiac guy. I restored a '64 Pontiac Catalina (visible in the corner of the pic of the charging station) and have owned a 2006 GTO since new, but that's not relevant here. Have over 2k miles on it now, and only put gas in it once so far. I like the new MyFord Mobile app and Sync 3, but wish they had a port for Tizen to my Gear S3 instead of only just to WearOS devices. Anyway, hey there! Dan

Hello; Thought I'd post up my first modification to my 2018 Energi SE Luxury for those who are interested in knowing how to do this. As in my intro post, I'm a DIYer with about 40 years' auto mechanics experience. I wasn't happy that my car didn't come with fog lights, but I wanted the "OE" type LED style of the '17+ lights as I feel they fit best with the look of the front end. I did some research, looked up some catalogs, and took my best guess. Since my headlamp switch had the grey wire in pin 14 of the headlamp switch according to this post: Given that, I ordering the following: LED Fog Lamp Assembly, LH: HS73-15A255-CD LED Fog Lamp Assembly, RH: HS73-15A254-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, LH: HS7Z-17B814-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, RH: HS7Z-17B814-CA Headlight Switch for Fog Lamps: DG9Z-11654-BA (SW6985) My Fusion does NOT have auto-park / adaptive cruise control sensors in the front bumper, so I ordered the: Fog Lamp Harness: HG9Z-15K867-C The chrome bezels on the front of the 17+ Fusions ARE removable, but be VERY careful when doing so - The tabs are brittle and will break off with very little force. I only lost one tab each, but you may not be so lucky. If you want them on-hand, order: Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, LH: HS7Z-15266-AB Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, RH: HS7Z-15266-AA Note that the fog lamps themselves are LED, and not serviceable. Thus, they're expensive to order new from Ford - About $190 each. I happen to find some 2nd hand ones on Ebay, but make sure you do a thorough check! There are two tabs with bolt holes on each assembly plus a locator "tab" that are broken on most of the Ebay ones - Make sure you get the ones with the tabs in-tact (not repaired). Start by removing the bumper cover. This is accomplished with a screwdriver or plastic trim removal tool, a T25 Torx socket, a 10mm socket, and a 7mm socket. Remove the upper T25 Torx screws from either side of the grille, right by the headlights: Remove the 10mm bolts (3) from the top of the bumper cover: Remove the plastic two-part clips from the radiator cover by first using a flat-head screwdriver to lift up on the inner part of the clip: Then pull the lower part out with the screwdriver or your fingers (it should easily lift out): Turn the car on "Accessory" and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to access the clip and bolts holding the inner fender cover to the bumper cover: Remove the two visible 7mm screws and the plastic clip using the same method as with the radiator cover: Peel back the inner fender cover to reveal two 8mm bolts holding the bumper cover to the fender. Remove those bolts, best accomplished with long extension and universal joint on the ratchet: Turn the wheel to the left to repeat with the passenger's side inner fender cover. Finally, remove the 10-12 7mm screws holding the bumper cover to the underside of the car: With those screws removed, the bumper cover should be loose. Pull the bumper cover away from the fenders using a plastic pry tool as not to scratch the paint. Once the cover is loose, three wire connectors must be detached. A small one on the upper driver's side of the inner cover: The main front bumper cover harness on the driver's side, just forward of the front wheel: And the active shutter harness: Here's where things went sideways. I actually didn't disconnect this harness, as it is connected at the center of the shutters and has several clips that hold it onto the lower radiator support. More on that in a minute. Set the bumper cover on something soft like a moving blanket or similar to avoid scratching it: When I compared the two bumper harnesses, I immediately knew something was wrong. The original harness (HG9Z-15K867-A) had two wires that the replacement harness didn't. The grey and white wires were missing in the new harness. Turns out, those wires are for the active shutters, along with the common ground wire that the harness uses for everything. The 2018s may be different than the 2017s in that the active shutters are perhaps powered by a different harness? Don't know. There's no mention of the active shutters on this harness in any of the Ford parts literature - Only whether or not the car has fog no lights (HG9Z-15K867-A), fog lights but NO park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-C), or both fog lights and park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-H). The -F and -L harnesses are for the Fusion Sport, and not applicable here. Regardless, I knew I was up sh*t's creek without the active shutter wires (check engine lights galore if those don't work). So I just went for it. I knocked out the blocked pinouts (shown by the yellow arrow) in the two pin locations for the active shutter wires (red arrows): I carefully cut the white and grey wire out of the original harness and inserted it into the new harness, wrapping them with friction (NOT ELECTRICAL) tape. There was a lot of carnage of the original harness. I spliced in the ground wire for the active shutters to the common ground line on the harness: And heat shrank the junction: Before re-wrapping the harness: With the wiring sorted, it was on to the fog light grilles. Remove the blank bezels from the bumper cover just by pushing from the inside of the cover outwards: Here is the blank bezel with the correct fog lamp bezel: Remove the chrome bezel from the blank CAREFULLY. I ended up breaking a tab on each, and I was being pretty careful: Place the chrome trim onto the fog lamp bezel: To mount the fog lamps themselves, you must purchase a total of four "speed clips" with bolts, around M8 or M10 size judging by the holes in the fog lamp tabs. I had some SAE clips laying around, but you may want to go "all metric". Mount the speed clips to the fog lamps themselves, and place the fog lights into the bumper cover BEFORE you re-mount the bezels. It works much easier this way. Use the locator tab on each of the assemblies and place the speed clips bolts on from the rear, through the bumper cover, into the speed clips on each side of the fog lamp assembly. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good picture of this process. Place the bezels back into the bumper cover, and the fog lamps will fit through and slightly protrude from the bezels. Remount the bumper cover, starting the three 10mm bolts (but do not tighten!) and T25 Torx bolts to hold the cover. Then, using the locator "christmas tree" style clips to hold the cover to the fenders, start the 8mm bolts on either side of the locator clips. Tighten ONLY after every bolt is started, being sure to line up the fenders and bumper covers properly. Replace the 7mm bolts on the underside of the bumper cover, plastic clips for the radiator cover, and tighten the 10mm / T25 bolts when finished. Use a plastic pry tool to work the headlamp switch out of place in the interior, pulling it out of the dashboard, disconnecting it from the harness. Plug the new switch in, and push into place until all four retaining tabs "click". Hit the ignition, and test them out! Hopefully this is helpful to those who want the OE fog light upgrade to an SE that didn't come with them. Also, if anyone has information on the appropriate harness for the active shutter controls, it would help out those who try this in the future instead of my having to Frankenstein the harness! Dan