Drewbabich

Whoops. I guess my license file just expired after my free trial period. Silly me

I have reset battery age on a few of my fusion hybrids in the past (probably last done summer of 2020) using these great instructions but tonight I got denied as told me "Sorry, you need an extended license to run this function" It told me this after I pressed the PLAY button in the BECM in the CONFIGURATION AND PROGRAMMING function. Anyone else ever have this issue? Do I need to reload all the forscan software and licensing ? I can still use it to reset DTC codes which is invaluable when my power steering goes out. ..

I have reset battery age on a few of my fusion hybrids in the past (probably last done summer of 2020) using these great instructions but tonight I got denied as told me "Sorry, you need an extended license to run this function" It told me this after I pressed the PLAY button in the BECM in the CONFIGURATION AND PROGRAMMING function. Anyone else ever have this issue? Do I need to reload all the forscan software and licensing ? I can still use it to reset DTC codes which is invaluable when my power steering goes out. ..

Anyone on here ever replace their radiator? I am attempting to do it now but can't figure out the procedure I have the front bumper cover off and both headlights for moves as well as the metal bumper..... The problem is the radiator support goes all the way around the three radiators and I can't figure out if you have to remove the entire radiator support and if I do how do you support the radiators and separate them from each other Doesn't appear to be a job many people attempt to do on their own I can't find anyone talking about it

For anyone following this thread you can easily reset your power steering problems with a forscan I have lost power steering three times over the last several years due to driving on low pressure tire and it shuts down the power steering Once you resolve your tire issue the power steering will not come back on its own But if you can hook up your computer to your OBD2 port you can easily go in and reset power steering computer and you'll be good to go If something else is causing you problems with your power steering resetting it will probably only be temporary

Hi i have a 2011 fusion hybrid and the front portion of the seat won't go down or up. (It's all the way up right now, 6 of the 8 way power seat functions are working correctly) You can feel it vibrating when you signal it to move up or down but it doesn't move. The motor hums and vibrates like it's bound up. I unbolted the seat and nothing is binding it up. I tapped the middle motor with a hammer but still no luck. The forward/ reverse and rear up/down works fine How do trouble shoot this farther or is it just designed that you need to replace the entire seat track motor assembly? This is the middle motor and i can't see any way to take it apart to look for broken gears or jambed motor internals.

(So I just got forscan up and running and reset my hybrid battery age in one mkz hybrid. So cool) This hybrid lost power steering 2 weeks ago and shows 3 different U codes. One got steering angle position sensor. One for transmission and One for abs. Question is. How do I use forscan to reset these codes. I'm about to go cross my fingers and start guessing with it plugged into my obd2 port.

Thanks Allen You da man! I wanna send you some money. I just used this to restore hybrid function on my 2011 mkz hybrid with 248,000 miles, using a windows 7 laptop and elm327 cable off amazon. For my cable it only worked when I had the switch flipped away from the cable not towards the cable fyi. I have a taxi fleet with toyota hybrids that have never failed a battery or lost battery performance. I have a hybrid highlander with 405k on the original battery and it still does nearly 30mpg with tons of battery power. My toyota tech says the best thing you can do is drive these hybrids all the time. I have no fear of battery failure I just have fear of dealer service costs. I changed a hybrid battery pack out of a Prius that I bought with a failed battery and it's less complicated then this reset procedure. I'm sure the ford hybrid batteries are just as durable. So reset your batteries fearlessly is how I feel. You have nothing to lose. I don't know why ford would program these cars to stop using the batteries. It seems silly to me. These hybrids run forever with minimal maintenance. The change was immediate. Before I couldn't accelerate without engine. Now I can drive from a stoplight without any engine. I'm more excited about this then a grown man should be.

It was actually the cv joint after all. I just kept driving it and it got worse and easier to trouble shoot. The axle did not want to come out if the hub. Required a lot convincing from the bfh and the axle end was super mushroomed by the time it budged but she eventually came out.

Can you reset the trouble codes on a 2011 ford fusion hybrid yourself? There has to be a way right? I'm struggling and failing at reseting my "service powersteering" "service advance trac" trouble codes... I've tried disconnecting the battery overnight. I've touched the terminal wires together as i've seen instructed. I've also tried a foxwell scanner NT510 but i don't have the ford software on it yet so its useless for this. On my toyota hybrids you can jumper the holes in obdII port and hit the brake like 8 times to reset abs lights etc etc but i'm finding no good advice on ford hybrid trouble code resets I've also noticed that the car stays powered up even with the accessory battery completely disconnected..... i never seen that before on my toyota hybrids... no wonder i can't clear anything. This thing has the memory of a steel trap. Does this pull power off the traction battery when the accessory battery is disconnected? What triggered the codes was getting a flat tire and driving 1000 feet on the flat. I installed a new tire and the tpms light went away so i know thats fixed and working ok.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=38tQrKIQWEs Is this likely ball joints making this creak creak creak noise while driving through Steady left and right turns? I did replace a bad inner tie rod and I also greased my lower four ball joints with a grease needle but noise remains. i believe it’s coming from the right side. 2011 Lincoln MKZ hybrid with 140,000 miles creaking when doing slow figure eights in parking lot. First half of video im doing a 5 mph right turn then I do a 5 mph left turn No noise when turning the wheels while stationary or when going over 10 mph. Nothing seems to be rubbing in the fender wells. When turning left or right it’s the same noise. The suspension feels tight and quiet over horrible roads at speed. I have no idea what this creaking noise is. Is this likely ball joint control arm issues? I’ve laid on the ground while holding the control arms as a partner turns the steering wheel and I haven’t felt any play in the ball joints or bushing.... i dont think it’s the strut bearing because I hear no noise from them while turning the wheel while stationary. If if I had a chassis ear I’d love to stick it on various control arms and strut mounts to help pin down this issue. through tons of fun internet reading I’m seeing it appears that there are lots of other people that have had issues with creaking noise from bad lower ball joints.

Joey how did you make out with your car. I am experiencing a creaking noise when turning sharp left or right and I suspect it is my two lower right control arms. I have a 2011 fusion. This appears to be a very common issue on this Mazda 6 sourced suspension set up on the fusions. most mechanics are hard working guys and if you want to drive cars you have to work with them or learn to do everything yourself. The more you know about the issue and the work required to replace the parts the better off you are. Diagnosing these ball joints is not the simplest job as I’ve been trying to narrow down the issue myself for a few days now. It’s fair to pay a mechanic for their time diagnosing your problems if you don’t end up using them. no matter what your going, to need an alignment when changing most suspension and steering parts. That’s roughly 100 bills anywhere you go. So do that means bbf2530 paid 725 for the parts and labor and 100 for the alignment. That’s for certified ford quality work that should go another 100,000 miles without issue and run like new. But you you can watch the videos on YouTube and attempt this yourself. There are excellent videos that show you the work online. This video is perfect for you to see what your car probably needs done You can find plenty of honest mechanics that will do good work for cheaper then the dealer and use cheaper parts if that’s what you want. You also can can get parts that are not ford certified motorcraft brand parts for a third of the price. But they may last 1/3 as long too.... it all depends on how much you want to spend and how long you think you’ll drive the car. But, on the other hand, no mechanic will be more familiar and better at diagnosing your issue and better at guaranteeing its fixed for the longest period of time then dealer certified mechanics using oem parts. That’s why they are more expensive.

Hi old spice did you ever get your popping creaking noise figured out? i just picked up a 2011 MKZ hybrid that ONLY makes noise when the wheel is turned to do 90 degree, u turns and figure 8s. It makes the same creaking popping noise when going left or right, on smooth roads even. No noises when stationary or when jacked off the ground. But drive in a smooth 5 mph circle left or right and it sounds terrible creak creak creak creak creak. Never heard anything like it. i did shoot the four lower ball joints full of grease with a grease needle, didn’t fix my issue. ill gladly replace control arms and ball joints if I can figure out which ones are causing this issue if it’s them at all anyway.