Rebel Racing

In our case, the cause was mice--lots of seeds and mouse pee. Once we got rid of that--no more smell.

Hi Guys, Looking at a 2010 Hybrid for a winter car DD. 102,000 miles. Only seen pics so far but looks in decent shape. I've owned Fusions before but never a Hybrid. I'm fine with doing simple repairs myself (brakes,suspension and exhaust, etc.) but, no idea about Hybrid stuff. Price is good--I think I can get it for under $2600. Something I should pursue or run, run away fast?? As I always do each fall--fix what needs to be fixed, drive it until spring and do some paint repairs and flip it. Any and all opinions are welcomed. Thanks!!

Sorry to hear that....I know how disappointing it can be when a simple fix seems possible. Our '08 is doing the same and if I thought that a swap would fix it, I would. I only have about 4 weeks or really cool weather and I am selling the car in the spring so I am not going to do anything with it. Good luck with whatever you decide to try next though.

Sorry to hear that....I know how disappointing it can be when a simple fix seems possible. Our '08 is doing the same and if I thought that a swap would fix it, I would. I only have about 4 weeks or really cool weather and I am selling the car in the spring so I am not going to do anything with it. Good luck with whatever you decide to try next though.

Hi Guys, After some research and the lead that Bangster has given me, I feel that it is PTU related. I don't have a belly pan so any fluid would drip to the ground which it has not, as of yet. I did locate the vent cap and it is caked with black crud. I was hoping to see it a bit wetter to really tell that is where the oil is coming from. At this point I am thinking that it is either from the vent or a seal. What really disturbs me is that occasionally there is a bit of a whine from the front end--bearings are good. Also, the other day the Wife had it out and she said that there was a noise like she was dragging something--it went away after she stopped in a parking lot. I thought that she was indeed dragging something but now I am wondering if the PTU is going out. Strange that noise would go away though--my experience tells me that these things never "fix" themselves. Tomorrow I am having a buddy run it up on his hoist to see if we can determine for sure where the leak is coming from and at the very least, top off the oil. Hoping to get 2 more months out of the car since it is not worth replacing the PTU (if that is the real fix). Thoughts/suggestions??

Perfect....I'll check that out this week. Thanks!!

Hummm…….sounds very similar. I need to take a look under it. It is sitting on a black driveway so I may need to place some cardboard under it to see what drips. BTW, what is the PTU?? Thanks!!

Hi Guys, Our winter beater, '09 V6 SEL AWD has an intermittent smell at idle coming into the cabin. I know smells are subjective but I would describe it as a petroleum/natural gas type odor. I've smelt cats before and it is not like that egg small really. It doesn't really matter whether you drive it for 10 min. or a couple of hours, it will come and go at idle--not every time but every so often. Once rolling you don't smell it and you might not for the rest of the drive. It goes away once you get up to city speed. Last night, I got it home and opened the hood (engine off). Sniffed around and it seems to be in the area behind the battery. It quickly dissipated though. First thought is a leaky valve cover gasket and oil dripping on to the exhaust but I see no smoke at all. Any thoughts??

Might be worth a call to them...they are less than a mile from my house. Thanks!!

Bought it back in September as a winter car. Strangely, the last 2 starts today and it kept the previous setting. Clearly it is an intermittent problem. As I will be flipping the car in the spring, I'd like it to work but probably won't spend a ton of $$ for it. Would like to know what is going on though.

I put a new battery in it last month....starts great. Something is not right. It's just a winter car and will be sold in April but if there is a simple fix, I'd do it. Thanks!!

Hi Guys, As we use the remote start more often I am noticing that whether I leave the car with the HVAC on Auto or keep it on manual, when I get in the car after a remote start, the system is off. Is this normal or do I need to do something different to have the heat on when I get in it?? All other cars with a remote start, the heat or cooling for that matter, would be running. Any thoughts what is wrong?? Thanks!!

I should of re-read some of the earlier posts about the need to program the module--it makes sence that it would need to be programmed. I was trying to put off getting a second key($$ reasons) but now realize that it was mandatory . I did learn that if you ask for a plain chip key (Rotunda 8040) you can save big $$ over a stock key. It does not have any buttons but it is chipped so it starts the car. It was $35 and then the programming fee. The Wife just started it and it is working fine. Fingers crossed but I think we found the problem. I shudder to think what the bill would of been if I had just taken it to the dealer and told them to fix it. I saved a ton of $$ and with your help, learned along the way. Thanks again!!

Well, I followed the directions and went with the 2 key programming.....3 remote starts and it seems fine. I'll give it a week of starts but this seems promising. Thanks!!

Further update..........getting old , I know, LOL. Picked up a new Securilock module. Installed it today and no difference. Dumb question, do I need to do any type of programming with the keys to "activate" a new module?

Makes sense....thanks!!

Hi guys, Sorry if this is not the right section for this but it is a generally opinion kinda thing. When you guys hit the remote trunk release button, does the trunk lid just unlock OR does it pop open a few inches. Ours does not pop, it just unlocks. Car has almost 165000 miles and. we just bought it in the fall so I don't know what to expect but, I suspect that the gas struts are shot. Opinions?? P.S. I can live with it but the Wife is using it for the winter and she is asking if this is right....I just want to replace the struts. LOL!!

Sounds good...time for more testing and checking on a replacement module. Thanks!!

O.K. so I test for 12v and continuity as you describe and that checks out, then.......... good or bad module?

O.K. that makes sense after I thought about it or a bit. I know it is still just a guess but.....in your opinion, will a replacement securilock module fix my issue??

Update....not good After a couple days of working fine, now it is back to the same way--alarm sounds when it should be starting. I cycled the 2 keys again and still no difference. For fun, I put the second key right against the ignition cylinder and hit the remote start--it works. Is this confirming that it definitely is the module under the column? If so, does anyone know a list of vehicles I could source one from the wreckers? This may sound odd but, if I were to take the plastic trim off the column (like I did when checking wires) and taped my second key right up to the ignition sensor, would that work? I really only need to have this working for 4 months as the car will be sod in the spring. In other words, I don't want to spend anymore than I have to. I guess I could tape the key against it from the outside and I know that works but having a key in plain sight is asking for the car to be taken. Thoughts??

When I tested it late last night, I did not insert a key--just tried it like I would from inside the house. Just ried 4 remote starts this morning and so far, all is good. Time will tell I guess. All we did was getting the second key programmed and then cycling both keys last night.

Guys..weird stuff now....taking the trash out before bed, I decide to try it again from the house...lights come on so i think that that is normal and it will not start....wait a few before I go out and guess what, it is running!!. wait a few and it stops....guessing around 10 min but maybe more. I wait a bit longer and hit the starter button and it starts up again. Maybe when I cycled the 2 keys earlier I did not give it enough time to recognize the new one?? So far so good.

Yes, that was the one.....nothing different. Does that solely point to the Securilock module then??

Another update.....just got a second key/programmed at the dealership--for a plain chip key it was very cheap. I have put both keyes in the ignition to the ON position for 5 seconds and then tried the remote ( from a video I found on YouTube---I know, not everything is correct on the net though)....no difference. Thoughts as to where to go next??