jamie930

It makes the clunk going into reverse or while moving in reverse? Every manual I have ever driven would sometimes cluck going into reverse. One thing to check is fender wells are secured especially the front section as the tire would just push them down in the forward direction but would grab them in the reverse direction. Had a busted fender well plastic that would flap once you got up to 65 it made a banging noise. Repaired with a drill and zip ties. Drill hole in each side of the plastic and put the zip tie through and tighten

Roll the window down and open the door have people forgot the door opens from the outside as well Reminds me of a story where they couldn't get in or out of the car because the battery was dead and the power locks didnt work.

I would get a volt meter and see if they have power at the light, and then power to a good ground

What I did was take a cut off wheel to the control arm so only the ball stud was left. I had also left the sleeves in the knuckle as well Then with a ball joint press tool like this I borrowed from Advanced Auto parts. I pressed the ball stud out. Now none of the cups were the correct size to fit so I used a wheel nut socket as my cup. Wheel nut sockets can be borrowed from Auto Zone. It was around 30MM. After cranking the press down with a 24" breaker bar with a 24" pipe on it, and the wife and kid standing on the knuckle they popped right out

NASCAR has been doing it for years

Had the same problem. Got a new factory HVAC harness and removed what connectors and wires I need since the harness goes the drivers side as well harness was only $10 more than a pig tail and I didnt have to splice the wires

replace those wires or you will being doing it again. I just got the whole HVAC wiring harness from the dealer for under $30. Since it goes to the drivers side I the removed the wires burnt melted as needed

300 high pressure is way to high for R134, and 30 low is to low for being 100 out, sounds like refrigerant issue I had the same problem in my Ford truck, I pulled the refrigerant and evacuated and recharged it and problem went away

What type of climate control do you have? The dual temp settings or the knobs. On the dual temp one I had a problem where the connection plug wasnt making a good connection and burned the contacts and melted the plug a bit. It would stop working and you would have to move the wire from the speed controller to motor.

Ford uses a cylinder head temp sensor to also determine overheating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Xl00o_BoZY If the sensor is reading bad or intermittently shorted or open you can have the overheating

Just by looking at your pics you might be able to pick up a filter door from a car the at the factory filter. Then use a couple screws in the corners to hold the door on, as the factory door holds on by tabs on the sides

I dont know if this has any thing to do with it , but I have been looking at new shocks and struts. I have found the both Motorcraft and KYB struts have different part numbers for each side. Where as Monroe and other lower end brands has the same part number for both sides

My light had been stuffed the pocket where the wire comes out. The big square hole in the center of the trunk. I thought that is where the light was supposed to but I didnt feel like messing with it, after i just got working

The demand fuse was blown. I am assuming the trunk light blew the fuse as the light was tucked in the metal deck of the rear seats just bouncing around. I just have the light hanging by the wires now I didnt see how it was suppose to fit with out shorting out again

There is a front and rear set of map lights with a button for each light The lights works as Bangster said except if the doors are closed I cant turn on single lights. If I hit the button to turn the light on it does nothing, but if I open a door the light will be off until I hit the button again I have not tried to turn all the lights on via the dimmer switch