Paul T

The paint job on the factory rims is terrible. It comes off so easily over time. I bought an almost perfect set of 2011 sport rims for 150 bucks and im going to have them powder coated and cleared. That should solve that problem.

I lubricate the tracks once a year with silicone spray and or WD40

I had the same problem at about 2 yrs after I bought the car.

i read that if you remove the storage and vent component from your dash and you cut a hole in the back of where that sits, you can reach it for replacement. I have not tried it. I saw it on youtube. I would like to hear if anyone else has tried this before I cut a hole anywhere. PT

Just an FYI. After researching the vibration at stop under load for a few weeks, I decided to go ahead and replace all the mounts. I have a 2011 fusion sport, 153K miles but I keep it up. Anyway, What I found was the gfront motor mount and the tourqe strut looked eh but the transmission mount was destroyed. The metal conneting rod in the center was 100% torn away from the rubber vibration dampening material. Replaced all and the cars ride is super smoth in all modes, park, drive, stop in gear. No vibration at all. This may translate to other fusion models also. Pass it on. This may not be the only cause for vibration, I can think of a few more, but it seemed logical. Paul T.

Just an FYI. After resaerching the vibration at stop under load for a few weeks, I decided to go ahead and replace all the mounts. I have a 2011 fusion sport, 153K miles but I keep it up. Anyway, What I found was the gfront motor mount and the tourqe strut looked eh but the transmission mount was destroyed. The metal conneting rod in the center was 100% torn away from the rubber vibration dampening material. Replaced all and the cars ride is super smoth in all modes, park, drive, stop in gear. No vibration at all. This may translate to other fusion models also. Pass it on. This may not be the only cause for vibration, I can think of a few more, but it seemed logical. Paul T.

That same thing happened to me in 2013. The throttle bodies are notoriuos for crapping out. Had it replaced, which is fairly easy to do yourself if you so choose, and problem solved.

Okay, I've read about this a few times. The majority of posts Ive read tried changing many things. Coil packs, engine mounts, "torque mount" (dogbone), Transmission mount, plugs.. The only one I've read that said it was solved was replacing the transmission mount. The symptoms seem to be the same though. Vibration at idle at stop under load. A/C compressor makes it a little worse. Put in Neutral and the vibration goes away. Looking for opinions or answers. Paul T.

Okay here are the symptoms. It ONLY happens in summer and when its hot... If I run it in winter, or early in the morning or at night, no issue. 1. When I first start driving the car from cold, the A/C might be cool, but the A/C at idle or stop starts to warms up , it smells like outside air mixing in. When I drive it cools down to cold. Sometimes it seems to not be as cool as initially, as I'm driving, ill turn the knob halfway to hot and back to cold and it will get colder again. 2. If I drive for a long while, the temp change at idle or stop stops happening and stays cold. 3. On hot days, sometimes the A/C will start off good then just turn totally hot. Some days there's no cold at all. If I shut the car off, turn the key to on, cycle the hot/cold knob slowly to hot and back to cold and start the car, it typically starts cold and after 1-2 minutes goes back to FULL HOT! I've read many things, its been 2 years. Evap temp sensor, blend door actuator, outside temp sensor. Ford seemed to think its my control unit on the dash. Had A/C filled and system check for leaks, etc. by ford, Schrader valve replaced by Ford. Looking for opinions and maybe answers. Paul T.