wdale17

2010 Ford Fusion Sport 3.5 200,000 Miles I'm hoping someone could help me out as I'm perplexed and frustrated. I installed a new high pressure line and PS pump and it steady leaks even before cranking the engine to bleed the system. So it must be a large leak. I'm 90% sure its coming from the pressure line fitting at the pump. I have two guesses. The first one being the crush washers at the fitting. I did put one crush washer on both sides of the banjo fitting. The pressure line I bought was Sunsong Part Number: 3403953. The difference between this hose and others is that the ends have circular grooves and the others have flat fittings. I'm assuming these grooves are for the crush washers to bite into. Problem is the torque spec is about 40 lbs. That isn't much torque and when I pull it back off, the copper washers barely have an indentation. I did order some crush washers with rubber seals but those wont be in for a couple days. My second guess is the pressure switch. I noticed a random O-ring in my driveway and I cannot remember if I replaced the O-ring on the pressure switch when I took it off the old pump and put on new pump. I would have to back the pump back off to look. Short summary, brand new pump/hose is leaking. That is before the system is pressurized so this must be a large hole for the leak. Thank you. PS Pressure Hose.pdf

Drolds1, Yes I did try a few SAE and was unsuccessful. Admittedly, I was pretty hot when fooling with it so I could have over looked something. From what I found out, the new lines do not bolt to the back of the engine. Probably because of my very situation. The new line has no center bracket so that makes since. But you did answer my my concern. Just to clarify, you are saying the corner of the cradle by the drivers side rack needs to be lowered? I really appreciate you replying.

Hello folks. I'm out of patience and hoping someone could help. I'm attempting to replace my pump and pressure line with no success. The pump was okay but this pressure line is a nightmare. I have both banjo bolts off but the stupid little 7-8 mm bracket bolts are wearing me down. The one on top right by the EGR valve and the green one on the rack. The one by the EGR valve is just spinning in a 8mm and too big for a 7mm. Also, the one on the rack is basically impossible to get. Thinking I need to drop the frame. Anyone have any tips on this? Also, worst case, anyone see any problems with cutting it off from bracket to bracket and running the new line ziptied to the old one? I thought Id have this done in 4-8 hrs but this stupid little bolt/nuts have me in a fit. Thank you,

Pritsch, I can take a photo later but there really is not much to take a picture of. I can take a pic of the head of the bolt but that's it. It just spins and wont tighten nor loosen. Its the bolt that attaches the frontward lower control arm to the subframe. There has to be a nut in the frame that the bolt attaches to that came out.

2010 Sport 3.5 FWD - 205,000m Fellow Fusion Owners, I'm hoping someone here can assist me. I apologize if someone answered this already but I tried my best to locate an answer. Yesterday I attempted to replace my passenger side motor mount, CV axle and frontwards LCA. Everything went well except the LCA. I've changed this before about 75,000m ago and it was a breeze. This time, the outer bolt to secure it to the subframe next to the oil pan keeps spinning. It wont come out nor tighten. Is there a captive nut inside the frame that came out? What is the best course of action, cut the bolt off and have someone weld a nut to the frame? Thank you for reading.

Solved. The bolt that bolts the front ward lower control arm to the frame came loose. Came pretty dang loose, about two thumb lengths. Took me quite awile to figure that out since you cant see it with the naked eye. Guess that's why I dont get paid to do it. It's extremely hard to get torque on it so either I did not tighten it enough of I forgot to complete it after I got everything back assembled to preload the suspension. At least the clunk is gone. Now on to the PS leak. Hope this helps someone.

I've did this job on all 4. I used a MAP torch and it worked great. About 30 bucks. That was the drivers side which I did second. The passenger side was first and I gave up and bought the moog inserts. They are slotted. If you dont have a press, these things are a nightmare getting in since they are slotted. Use a torch, 15 min getting both sleeves off and on vs 3 hrs getting the new ones in.

2010 Sport 198k Miles Hello, First time poster but have been rummaging the site for for quite some time to diagnose problems. A quick backstory is that I noticed my drivers side inner tie rod had a lot of slop. When I removed it I noticed that basically the joint exploded. Rusty grease was all along the arm of the rack. Much stiffer driving now but Im noticing a clunk when even barely turning the wheel in that area. I probably should have researched more but I can get very impatient which I did in this case. I guess the question is, From my memory, I did not clean up the rusty grease on the rack. Could not doing that damage the rack seals? Additionally, I do have a moderate PS leak. Fairly confident the leak is not from the rack but from the hose that runs along the radiator. My radiator does have a lot of PS fluid on it on the passenger side.