Waldo

Those systems are all tied together in the brake control module. You should be able to pull the codes and find out what the fault code is. Could be a bad reading on a wheel speed sensor.

Really? You'd rather die than risk a one in a million chance that you'll have a dead battery on your car in the morning? You joined this forum just to post this ridiculous logic? Ford is literally replacing MILLIONS of airbags. And here is ONE tale of a potential negative consequence. ONE out of MILLIONS.

That's not true at all. There are many instances all over the world and in multiple industries where suppliers build items for companies that own the patents. If Toyota or Ford own the patent for the e-cvt transmission, then Aisin would be required to pay a royalty for every transmission they sell to somebody else. Even beyond just the patent issue, there are many, many exclusive supplier contracts. GM can't just go to Faurecia and order up 1000 Ford Fusion front bumpers. In many cases Ford pays suppliers to do the engineering and development work on the parts they will buy, so if they didn't have exclusivity contracts, those suppliers could go and sell those parts to others at a much lower price than Ford is paying, because Ford already paid for the development.

First of all, starting and running your ICE vehicles in the past on cold days was not a great idea. All that does is drain the battery, cause internal engine wear, condensation in you exhaust and waste gas. Unless the battery itself really heats up - and it takes a good bit of driving to accomplish that, then it's not really charging up much anyway. Secondly, while -7 feels cold, it's not really that cold. Ford tests all it's systems to survive in -40 weather, so you're really not even close to the vehicle's limits. Third, the hybrid really isn't that different from an ICE vehicle in this regard. There's really no need to start it up in cold weather. My 2014 Hybrid has been sitting outside in my driveway for the last month and I haven't even touched it. Last year over Christmas it sat for 5 weeks. Still on the original 12V battery. What I have done though is ordered a CTEK trickle charger. A device like this can keep the battery topped up over long periods of time. I plan to mainly use it for my summer cars that sit in the garage all winter, but I'll also hook it up to my Fusion to see how well it works.

So the original question was how to change the display back. We answered that. Sounds like you are asking how to not have the rpm pop up in the first place. That is a different problem. When you use the paddles the tach will always come up. It's probably true that this is not specifically explained in the owner's manual, but there is nothing you can do about that, it will always happen. However you can use the display settings to manually change it back to what it was.

You put Brembo decals on your factory calipers? Really? Why don't you stick a Ferrari badge on the back of the trunk. Maybe stick a V8 sticker on the fender while you're at it... Sorry, I can appreciate the wrap and the wheels and the caliper paint, but labeling something that is obviously that fake is a no-no in my book.

That's not normal. Have you checked the spare tire to make sure it's tight?

That's the tick from the high pressure fuel pump required for a direct injection engine. Pretty much all new cars do that now.

Just keep in mind that Ford didn't make all that many 2020 Fusions and a large portion of those that they did make went to fleets and rental car companies. So the number of actual 2020 Fusion owners out there who are enthusiastic enough or have already encountered problems for which they are seeking help and thus joining Internet forums is going to be very small. So you might be waiting a while for your answers.

But you can't rotate the Corvette tires since they are (or were from the factory) directional and different sizes front to back, so they wouldn't have the issue I described. It may also be that your Corvette uses the system that GM was using prior to the TPMS requirements where they used the wheel speed sensors to detect when one wheel was rotating faster/slower than the others and from that they could estimate the tire pressure. Those "indirect" systems do not meet the federal requirements and thus they couldn't be used once the laws were put in place in 2008.

Yea almost all cars of that era didn't have individual readouts. One of the biggest issues was what about when you rotate your tires. Would customers be required to reprogram the sensors every time you rotate tires? That was something most OEMs figured would be more of annoyance to customers than not having the individual displays. Imagine a scenario where you take your car to Jiffy Lube and they rotate your tires, but don't reprogram the sensors. A couple weeks later you get a warning that shows your left front tire is at 25psi. You go over and check it and it's at 35psi, so you figure, "dang sensors are messed up". So then you keep driving around on a left rear tire that's at 25psi. Eventually the OEMs developed technology that can figure out when you rotate the tires and adjust accordingly, so it's not really a matter of "epic fail", just a matter of time to develop the technology.

Bottom line is your car doesn't have a working TPMS system. If it really was reading the pressures on the car, it would have stayed on constantly with tires at 22psi.

TPMS sensors don't send out a constant signal, they send out little blips ever 2-3 minutes. The car is programmed to look for the sensors when you start up the car, then it takes a certain number of "misses" before it will decide the sensors aren't there and it will set off a warning. I think it's usually on the order of 10-12 missed signals before a warning, so that means you might need a total of 20-30 minutes of driving away from your home before they would trip the warning. What did the warning say? Did it say "Low tire pressure", or "Sensor Malfunction"?

Where do you have the original Fusion wheels stored? If they are in your garage near the car when you start it up, they might be transmitting the signals often enough for the car to think they are still installed. Could be that you just finally drove far enough that it finally triggered the warning.

Well everything will fail eventually. The water pump failure rate on the 3.5 isn't any higher than the failure rate on any other engine, Ford or otherwise. It's just that when it fails it can cause serious damage to the engine and replacing it is a very expensive job. That's why you hear so much about it.

This is not such a wise idea. Unlike the previous cars you listed, modern cars like the Fusion use the vehicle speed signals for all kinds of different functions. Although your speedo may be off (and 3% seems like an unusually large amount), the speed signal going to the engine computer, ABS module and the other CAN network modules will not be off by that much. So while changing your tire size might fix the speedo, it will throw off the calculations for just about everything else.

Man, you guys are a bit harsh. Ford does a bunch of silly things like deleting stuff like cabin filters mid-year on some trim series on some models and not others then putting them back a year or two later, so it's perfectly reasonable for a dealer service employee to not know off the top of their head which model and which trim in which model year does and does not have a certain feature. And there also isn't really an easy documented place where they can go to check, at least not in less time than it would take to actually go to the vehicle and check. Just because a vehicle has a place for a cabin filter, doesn't always mean it actually has one.

I think the way you connected would have bypassed all of the cars battery protection management, so you likely just drained your 12V battery down to nothing, and without that, the rest of the hybrid system (computers and such) can't run. You could try just charging up the 12V (take it out of the car and hook it up to a trickle charger), but it might be too late for that. But I agree with bbf, chances of damage to anything beyond the 12V battery itself should be low.

The seat is designed to stay "on the track" during a crash at well over 80mph, that's a lot more load then any amount of food could ever put into it.

The whole point of check engine lights is to make it easy to diagnose. Get the code read and it will tell you exactly what's going on. It should be stored in memory, so just go to an autozone or another place and find out what the code is. Could be that you've got some fuel in the evap canister that tips forward on the hill or some oil flow in the engine that tricks out some sensor. But the code will at least tell you where to look.

Are you turning off the ignition before you open the driver's door? If not, then the rear doors will not unlock. But if you do turn off the ignition, then as bbf states, you can program them to unlock, if they don't already (should be the factory default that they do unlock).

You can never measure mileage on a hybrid by the trip. If you start a trip with a full battery and end with an empty one, your MPG number will be spectacular (I've seen over 100mpg on some short trips). But then the next trip the MPG will be terrible, because it will have to run the engine harder to re-charge the battery. You also need to account for the break-in period, that can cause a big change. The EPA doesn't test vehicles until they have over 4000 miles on them, so until your car has 4000 miles, you can't really be sure what you're long term fuel economy is going to be. The break-in effect will be far greater than any of the changes you've made, but you're experience learning to drive the hybrid is probably the biggest factor. I used to be a big fan of the K&N filters, until it started causing issues with the MAF sensor on a previous vehicle. In a Fusion hybrid with the Atkinson engine there is no gain to be made with a freer flowing filter, only risk of damage. My advice would be to get that out and put a clean stock one back in. As for the fuel treatment, even at only $1.50, that still comes out to more expensive then you might think. Doing a little math and assuming $2.50/gallon gas, you'd need to see a 2.5mpg improvement just to pay itself off. On a new car with clean injectors, that seems unrealistic to me unless you're buying cheap non top-Tier gas. And don't assume "it can't hurt things". There are plenty of chemicals that you can put in your fuel tank that will harm things (like that catalytic converters). STP has been around a long time, so seems unlikely, but I just find it odd that you're not ok with the risk of using stock wheels but are ok with the risk of running a K&N and fuel treatment. Seems like you've got that a bit backwards. Also there is a Fusion hybrid sub-forum where you can find even more discussion specifically about the hybrid. https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/

Aftermarket wheels might have a better strength to weight ratio, but Ford just throws mass at the wheel to make it strong. So you're not likely to find an aftermarket wheel that's any stronger than the Ford wheel. The Police wheels are steel and as mentioned are even heavier still. I blew out a tire and rim on my Hybrid when it only had 200 miles on it. Still not sure what it hit, but I think the front wheel pulled up a chunk of pavement which then scraped all the way down the floor, bounced off the suspension and into the wheel. It was not a subtle incident. But since then, 6+ years and zero issues with the wheels. Also I don't know what the point of STP gas treatment is. I'm getting 45mpg average over those 6 years with no gas treatment. The Atkinson cycle engine can't really take advantage of higher octane and good top Tier gas has all the detergents you'll ever need.

It's all software and the map card. But Ford has not made this software available for purchase, so any way you do it will be in violation of copywright laws.

That's probably for fire extinguishers and recovery hooks that are required in foreign markets. it's nothing you need.