Waldo

If you have a 2013 with only 15000km and with the original battery then you are way overdue for a new one. Low mileage is very hard on a battery and will make it last less than driving a lot. Change the battery and then see if the problem is resolved.

The A/C needs the airflow through the radiator (condensor) to generate the cold air. Get the fan fixed and you'll almost certainly get your A/C back.

The Fusion's front suspension geometry is set up in a way that once you start moving at speed, you really don't need any power assist. So when you say it "feels normal" over 20mph, that just means you're in the part of the operation where the power assist wouldn't be doing much anyway. So you can take that part out of the symptom and just assume that your power steering is not working at all. That basically means either the pump isn't working on the gear isn't working. I'm not sure how to figure out which one it could be over the internet, but you could always try a flush of the fluid just to see if there might be some clog in the lines.

You don't need to check the water level ever. It is maintenance-free.

What you want is called the FCIM. It's not just buttons though, the circuit board is integrated into the part, so "what's behind it" is essential to the function (though the screen and Audio Control Module are seperate, so you don't need those). This means you will need to reprogram any new module you install, so as long as you're prepared for that task, you should be able to use any part from a 2016+ Fusion.

Ford's not in business to generate huge sales. An out-of-the-park home run is defined by the profit a vehicle makes, not the number sold. From that measure, the Fusion is more like grounding into a triple play. You can say the Fusion sales have declined because Ford didn't invest in it, but the fact is the overall sedan market has declined dramatically. Why would Ford spend a bunch of money chasing after a small piece of a pie that keeps shrinking? Fact is the Fusion has been losing money for a long time, so Ford would have made MORE profit in the quarter if the Fusion had been #25 instead of #20.

It will be fine. Assuming they started it up to load and unload it, that should be enough to just keep the batteries active. My 2014 Fusion hybrid was built in September of 2013 and I didn't purchase it until February of 2014, so it sat a while, but has been completely fine. It also sits for 3-4 weeks every Christmas when we go out of town. Some people have had troubles with the 12V battery, so you might consider replacing that just to get a fresh start and brakes and tires don't like to sit for long times, so it might be a bit shaky and squeaky at first, but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.

Sometimes Less is More. For example "Less Compass Display" probably means you don't have the base compass, you have the upgraded compass built in to the cluster. And the "Less Front Parking Aid"... "Less Automated Parking System..." are features that were optional (though not necessarily on a 2019 Energi) and you didn't pay for. The "famous De-Contenting" are usually things that would never show up on a build sheet, because they would be removed from all vehicles.

The logic behind mods for performance and mods for efficiency are totally different. When talking about performance, it's usually just a question of money. The manufacturers stopped adding performance when they got to their budget and had no more money left. But in terms of MPG or electric range, the only point of improving those things is to save money. So it's pretty easy to figure out when to stop improving it - when the cost of the "mod" is more than the amount of fuel that it saves. And that's my point, you are not going to find things that cost less than the amount of fuel they save unless you're willing to give up on other things that I mentioned, like durability, practicality or looks. If you can, then the OEMs would have already done it.

Not nuts at all, the EPA window sticker only has to display the ratings for the most popular configuration, so the sticker shows the MPG/MPGe of the 17in and completely ignores the 18in, as long as Ford sells more 17s than 18s. But in the later years, the energi was only available with 17in wheels. Lighter wheels will only improve efficiency while accelerating, they won't offset any rolling resistance when driving down the highway. There are plenty of things you can do if you want to go crazy and give up reliability/practicality or make it look goofy. You can put on aero tricks like flush wheel covers, tape up hood gaps, block off the grill and stuff like that. You can also use things like pre-heaters for oil and coolant (assuming you plan to use the gas engine on your drive cycle) and as bbf pointed out you can just keep pulling out stuff for weight savings. You can bump up your tire pressure by 5, 10, 15 psi if you want. But in the end, you have to ask yourself, if there was an easy way to improve range, why didn't Ford do it in the first place?

Space saver spare tires are often much smaller in diameter than the regular tires. The 2012+ Focus also used the exact same spare tire as the Fusion, that's where I got mine.

I don't get it, the lane keeping system has nothing at all to do with the vehicle alignment. There is a calibration procedure for the adaptive cruise control radar module. That could be required if it got bumped when you hit the curb, but that has nothing to do with the vehicle alignment or the lane keeping system. So what exactly did they do?

There's so much "insider" stuff about tires that people don't know, we could go on for ever. I only bring it up merely to point out that you really don't have any way of knowing what you're really getting, so anecdotal conversations are all you can do and then throw in the "your results may vary". The only definitive answer is the DOT code on the tire. Usually you don't find that published on any of the websites, but if the DOT code on the tire you buy matches the DOT code on the tire that came on the car, that is the only way you can be sure you have a real 'matching' tire. But it is a fact that probably 95% of OEM tires are specifically tuned tires. For example the new Explorer ST has a summer tire option that is actually an off-the-shelf tire, but all the other tires available on the Explorer were custom-tuned for the Explorer. When Ford was tuning the 2002 Thunderbird they started out using the same Michelin tire as the Lincoln LS. But because the T-bird body structure was so different, the tire just wasn't working. So it ended up that the two tires looked identical, but were completely different. If you put the T-bird tire on the LS is turns into a soft marshmallow and if you put the LS tire on the T-bird it turns it into a shaky mess. I once went into a retail tire shop and noticed 2 of those Michelin tires on the shelf, one each of the T-bird and LS tires (different DOT codes). I asked the tire shop guy if he recognized the difference and he said no, they would just use both tires on the same car. What you can actually go out and buy can vary dramatically. In many cases on high volume cars with popular sizes, the tire manufacturers will sell the same OEM tires in retail outlets. However often times OEMs will have quality requirements like balance specs and such. The tires that don't meet the strict OEM specs but still meet the tire manufacturer specs will be sent to retail instead of sent to the OEM's factory. So basically what you get at retail are the sloppy leftovers. Other times the tire manufacturers will see that there is so much demand for a certain tire size that they can't meet retail demand with the capacity they have building the OEM tires. So they will set up a separate production facility to build tires just for aftermarket, but they can change anything on those tires so they won't match OEM spec. For example one tire manufacturer once told me that while they offer up to 12 different tread compounds to the OEMs, they only use 2 of those compounds in their aftermarket retail tires. Another issue can be regulations. Not sure if it's still true, but there used to be restrictions on certain tire "ingredients" like Rayon. Tire factories in some parts of the world could use Rayon, but it was banned from being used in the US. So some European cars would come in to the US with tires that had Rayon in them, but any aftermarket tire made in the US could not have that Rayon. So the tires would either have to be imported, or substituted with something made locally that was slightly different. So yes your Escape does have magical Ford fairy dust in the tires, but you may or may not be able to get the same thing in the aftermarket when it's time to replace them.

Maybe in the 2.5 years since this thread was started, Susa has read the owners manual.

There's a lot more to tires than just the name on the sidewall. Every tire on every Ford is very carefully selected and tuned to meet the exact character for the exact vehicle it is used on. Saying the same tires are on the Escape and non-Hybrid is not really true, even though they might be the same model name. Ford will tweak the tread compounds, the internal construction and many other factors to optimize the tire for it's intended use. The 17in tires are used on the Energi because they have better rolling resistance than the 18in tires. This becomes a factor in the advertise-able fuel economy. The HEVs are heavier than the non-hybrid Fusions, so there will be more load going through the tires and thus slightly more wear. The Energi is the heaviest of all, that's why it has slightly different brakes. Also did you notice there is no spare tire? I'm just about to hit 50K miles in my 2014 Hybrid and it's time for new tires, so for me the 50K estimate is about right. And to correct Bangster, my HEV has the 225 tires, not the 235.

All Ford has done to the Fusion over the last 4 years is cut costs. You'll likely be far happier keeping the 2016 and saving your money for something fun.

The 17in is required to clear the brakes on the Energi models. If you don't have an Energi, the 16in will work just fine.

Those will probably rub when you turn the steering wheel 360 degrees and the corner of the tire gets real close to the fender liner (and bodyside flange) in the rear section of the wheel well. Also there isn't a lot of room between the top of the tire and the ball joint on the upper control arm.

No Fusion has ever come from the factory with run-flat tires, so you're either mistaken or somebody has put them on aftermarket. The reason the Hybrid doesn't have a spare tire is because it won't pass the crash safety test with it in there (picture the spare tire pushing the floor out from under the battery, then the battery pushing through the rear seat). If you're ok with that risk, then you can just get a spare tire and tools from any 2013+ Fusion or 2012+ Focus and stick it in there. I did that myself, found it all on ebay for around $150.

The Fusion doesn't have a viscous coupler, it has an RDU with an electronically controlled dry clutch. If the clutches are locked on, then you would get the shuddering. Try disconnecting the electrical connector going in to it. That should open the clutches permanently. If you still have the shudder after that, then either the clutches are mechanically locked, or the problem is something else.

Those things are 1.25 in thick, meaning they are going to push the wheels out 1.25in on each side. That's not going to clear the fender, it's going to steer terribly and increase the wear on the suspension and wheel bearings. Bad idea.

That's ridiculous. First of all, it won't be a recall since it isn't a safety or emissions compliance issue. Secondly, if you've ever actually tried to get a Ford dealer to update anything you'd understand how incredibly reluctant they are to touch anything unless they absolutely have to. They're only going to do things they are paid for, and being well out of warranty, they have 0 incentive to do this.

I agree it does sound like a TB issue, but I doubt cleaning it is going to make any difference. Far more likely to be an intermittent electrical problem, either within the TB itself or the connections going to it.

With the pedal sticking to the floor like that, it is more likely to be a hydraulic problem, not a problem with the clutch plate itself. That should be a much easier fix than changing out the clutch itself. At only 135k miles that car should still have a lot of life left in it.

Adding a control to control something you don't have wouldn't be super helpful. That would be like adding the switch to open the moonroof, without adding the moonroof. You'll need a new climate case which means pulling out the entire IP.