Waldo

Seems like you could be hearing the direct injection tick as bangster mentions. Have you ever had a car with direct injection before?

Unlikely to be the BCM module itself, sounds much more likely to be a connector or bad ground somewhere. Unfortunately it could be anywhere but it's probably something on the CAN network.

Regardless of Sync 1, 2 or 3, the touchscreen input for climate is not controlled by a wire. It's all CAN network traffic, so there is no wire you can reverse, it will have to be reconfigured properly in the software.

Well if by active, you mean more people wanting to sell, then I agree. As akirby points out, if everyone wants to sell their sedans, the prices will drop. That's great for used sedan buyers in 3-5 years, not great for people who are buying them new now. It's foolish to look at it as a "point in time", since it has been a trend for quite some time. Look at other automotive segments that have shrunk/disappeared (station wagons, 2 door coupes, minivans). The trend of declining sales starts slowly, then accelerates, then eventually they are virtually gone. There is no bounce back. You might think you want a sedan in 3-5 years, but you might find a new product that comes out that meets all your needs and isn't a sedan that you can't even imagine right now. That's not to say nobody will want a sedan, the point is that so few people will want one that the profits will be too small to make it worthwhile for most manufacturers.

The real issue related to the depreciation is the reason why it's being discontinued in the first place. People don't want to buy sedans, period. If 3-5 years even fewer people will want to buy sedans. That's going to drive the resale value down to a very low value, so if you're buying any sedan today, don't expect to get much for it in a few years.

Nope, that's not an option anywhere. There is a sensor, but it's not necessarily representative of the actual inside temp. The climate system uses inside air temp, humidity, sunload, outside air and probably a few other things to figure out what to do. Just displaying the inside air temp on it's own wouldn't give you an accurate reading. It would also cause people to be upset/confused because it would rarely ever match the actual temperature set point.

Yep, way cheaper to just sell and buy what you want.

The needle isn't really a gauge, it's just on ok/not ok switch. So staying in the middle doesn't really mean it wasn't starting to get hot. It was likely slowly heating up, then when it gets to the overheat threshold, the gauge pops.

Airbags are very carefully designed to go off when they are needed and not when they are not needed. If your head was going forward in the crash, the side airbag is not going to help and can make things worse. Side airbags are to protect your head when your head is moving to the side, which based on the pictures of your crash, it was not doing. It's all determined by the direction and magnitude of acceleration, not by the where the vehicle is actually hit. If all the airbags just went off in every crash, then we would all have to pay a lot more insurance to fix all the wasted airbags.

I"m not an expert, but that doesn't look to me like there was enough "side force" to require the airbag. Deploying the side airbag likely would have pushed your head in a different direction than you were going and could have caused even more injury.

If you want a sporty feel, a good set of performance tires will give you more bang-for-the-buck than any suspension modifications.

Well you're half right. The CoPilot360 package that is standard on the 2019 comes with lane keeping and brake assist that uses the camera mounted on the windshield. The CoPilot360 Assist package then adds the radar module to allow the Adaptive Cruise control. The Adaptive Cruise does also require the windshield camera, so you do have part of the system already, but the radar is expensive (the part will cost you more than $650 I'm sure) and it's likely the wiring is not there, plus the steering wheel switches won't have the extra buttons. Then you have to do a lot of reprogramming to get it to work.

3.2 has a lot of strategic changes. Almost all of the menus have been removed from the cluster and put in the center screen. Things like adjusting the lane keeping, MyKey, language and units and all that is now all set up though the center screen. So it wouldn't really work with the older models because the clusters might not be able to handle the conflicting messages.

If the transmission were actually overheating, you would have had warning messages pop up in the cluster long before any damage was done. And you're right, the point of the shutters is to close for aero benefits and stay open when air flow is needed for cooling, so having them missing could never cause overheating.

But that can just be from a lack of pressure through the valve body and solenoids, it doesn't necessarily mean wear was occurring.

If it had truly been bone dry, I'd be concerned, but 1.5qts low for one day isn't likely to have any lasting consequences.

The EcoBoost is direct injected, so the fuel never runs over the valve. Therefore running a higher octane fuel won't help clean any carbon off the valves - that's why it's an issue in the first place.

Certainly sounds like you have a bump-steer problem. Basically all independent rear suspensions are designed to toe-in as they move up and toe-out as they go down to improve stability as the vehicle rolls in a turn. But if any of the bushings are worn or the links are bent, you can get too much. The result is that you get the squirmy feeling you describe, even though the alignment at curb height might be correct. The true procedure to check for this is to put it on an alignment rack and check the alignment, then put a couple hundred pounds in the car and check again, then another couple hundred and check again and so on. But this is very time consuming, so finding somebody who wants to do that is pretty unlikely. And Ford doesn't publish a spec for this anyway, so the best you can do is just compare one side to the other. If one side is off, it still doesn't point you to what the actual cause of the problem is. So in the end, just throwing new parts at it might be the only real option.

Ford still has plans for the Mondeo in other parts of the world. It will likely be an extension of the new Focus platfom, but it wouldn't be that hard to bring it back to North America if needed, but I don't see that even at $5/gas. Things are different now. Back in 2008 you couldn't get a 20+mpg SUV or a 30mpg F150. Now you can and there's even more improvements coming with the hybrids. So I think Ford's covered on the fuel economy game. But you really need to look deeper into Ford's plan. Ford is betting on "mobility solutions" beyond the concept of individuals purchasing vehicles. Automated vehicles, ride sharing, city management, all of those business models offer Ford a "recession/fuel price proof" solution to sustained profits. That's where the money saved from sedans is going.

Yep, just trade for what you want, don't try to build it.

All that stuff talks to the other modules over the CAN network. Even if they bolt right in, you'll need to find a way to change all the configurations in the software to match the parts you put in. If you end up with combinations of parts that were never designed to work together, you can get all kinds of strange results.

You are still confused with the auto light feature. Your car does have lights that automatically come on when it's dark. The sensor for that is right in the middle of the top of the dashboard, up near the windshield. What you don't have is the auto-high beam feature. That uses a camera that would be up where the rain sensor is if you had that - which you don't.

Water pumps have failed on all brands of cars for many, many years. The fact that it is an unusually expensive repair on the 3.5 engine does not mean it's going to cause a fatality or warrant any special consideration from Ford.

If you want your car to look like a 1980 Chevy Malibu, then you can have headlights that are easy to replace. Sure it might cost 10x more to replace a headlight bulb now than in the past, but it is also a far more rare occurrence. I actually can't remember the last time I changed a headlight bulb, maybe it was 1998. I had my 2002 Focus for 11 years and never had to change a single bulb on it. So if you only have to change a bulb 1/10th as often, the net difference is really zero. BTW Ford does have an internal requirement that bulbs can be changed with one hour's labor, so if your dealer can't do it in one hour they need some more training.

I agree - clockspring is the issue.