Waldo

You should be able to pull the codes and it will tell you exactly what's wrong.

Sounds like a traction control event to me. You can't accelerate hard from a stop in a FWD car with the wheels turned. Inside wheels won't get enough traction.

There's no such thing as a factory remote start on a 2012 Fusion. There's just a Ford approved aftermarket unit that could have been included on the invoice when it was new. No reason to not consider all the other aftermarket alternatives.

I'm sure it would fit, but without the software to run it, you'll just get a bunch of blank screens.

They did do that. All you need to turn on the Nav in any car is put in the card and turn on the license. What they didn't do was figure out a way to effectively manage selling the license.

That's like saying a PC maker doesn't have any cost to have Windows put in as a default. Ford has to pay a license fee for every navigation system they install. People don't just develop software for free.

Sync services is being discontinued. Even Ford has acknowledged it's not very useful.

And even if this really is true, do the math, even if you're saving fuel, you're almost certainly not saving money.

If you've made it that far already, I wouldn't touch anything. The amount of particles in the oil doesn't increase over time, in fact in goes down. In other words, the trans isn't going to wear any faster over your 30,000 mile change intervals than it has in the past so what's worked so far is going to continue to work in the future.

The sound doesn't come from the "vertical" or "horizontal" thing you touch. The sound comes from the latch itself.

There are at least 20 different electronic "control boards" scattered all through the car. There are wires everywhere, literally, everywhere. The controls for the power steering run through the CAN network, so a problem anywhere on that network could cause issues anywhere else on the network. BTW there is a recall out for 2013 Fusions related to loss of power steering. Has that recall been completed on your car?

What size is the mini-spare in the trunk?

Ford has what they call a "boundary book" for stuff like this. Since the seats and leather all come in pre-assembled by the suppliers, Ford creates an objective measurement for things like wrinkles. I don't know what the specs are, but it's stuff like "no more than 3 wrinkles between 1 and 2 inches per seat" and "no wrinkles longer than 2.5 inches" or whatever. So if the dealer knows where to find that spec, it should be a pretty cut-and-dry yes or no. Either way though it won't be the dealer that makes the call. It will be either them referring to a spec, or sending it up the chain for approval.

Maybe a wheal bearing. Do you notice it stronger when turning to the right?

I don't get it, are they talking about the rubber pedal pad, the part that your foot touches? That part has absolutely nothing to do with the brake lights. You could take that completely off and nothing would change. The brake lights are activated by a plunger-type switch on the top of the pedal. It's the same switch used on pretty much every Ford for the last 10-15 years. It would be extremely rare for that to fail without something throwing it out of adjustment and it certainly wouldn't be a result of "normal wear and tear".

44 psi is also very dangerous. At that high pressure you are reducing the grip and it will take longer to stop in an emergency.

I've spent lots of time with Carplay, it's really not that great. My 2010 MKT has the same system as your Fusion and I'd never think it worth the trouble to change it. Only real advantage of Carplay is that the maps are constantly updated.

The factory service manual does say to check the level with the engine running, so it would seem like your trans is overfilled. Either that or you opened the drain plug and not the fill plug!

Just think of it as auto mode controls everything, until you tell it not to. Once you select a button, it no longer automatically controls that function that you selected, but it uses all the other controls it has to try to compensate. It's very difficult to communicate the status of 4 different functions with one LED, so don't worry about it too much. What would happen if you turned off the A/C button so no LED was displayed there, and then it turned off the auto button LED as you seem to think it should. Then you'd have no LEDs displaying at all, so how would you know what's actually going on? Just be glad you get any response at all out of the A/C button. On the 2013 and early 2014s, you could press the A/C button and the LED would turn on or off, but it would have no effect on the system at all. There was no way to turn off the compressor if you wanted to drive with the windows open.

Personally I'm done with Weathertech. I've had them for 3 different cars now and many of them get to the point where the edges curl up and expose the area beneath. The trunk mat in my Hybrid is so curled that you can see the carpet floor underneath it and you have to uncurl it if you want to use the 2 inches closest to the opening. Weathertech's solution was to "turn it inside out and put something heavy on it for a while so that it regains it;s "memory""". Tried that and in just a couple days was back to the same again. I'm also having a hard time cleaning them. Even with my trusted armor-all plastic cleaner I still can't get out many of the stains.

The Mustang has all that stuff, except the shifter anyway.

Because changing all 3 of those things would probably cost around $50million. With the current sales of the Taurus it wouldn't be good business.

The FOBs are exactly the same. Either one can be #1 or #2, it's up to you to set them.

The simple solution is to stop covering over the light sensor. I too am a firm believer in daytime lights, but the factory DRLs are enough for me. No need to cover the sensor and mess with the interior lighting at the same time. It's also worth pointing out that there are TWO "dimming" settings. One for daytime and one for night. If you have your dash cranked up to the max intensity in daytime, that setting doesn't translate to the night setting. Essentially it has a "memory" so you need to crank it up in the night setting as well. As for the wiper-on, lights-on feature, the interior lights are not tied to that at all. They are reacting only to the light sensor - independent of the wiper function - so in the daytime when it turns your wipers on, it will not dim the interior lights unless it is actually dark outside.

Amazing! Automakers have spent decades and billions of dollars to try and get tenths of a MPG improvement and somehow they've totally missed this K&N idea! Seriously, if it really worked it would come standard from the factory, I used to put K&Ns in all my cars, but then I had it clog up the MAF sensor on my Focus and since then I've avoided them. I've seen on other forums people that used them have blown turbos that looked like they were sandblasted. So I would definitely be worried about sand and dirt if I were you. It's not the short term "off-road events" that will get you, it's the little bit of extra dirt of thousands of miles.