mrau92me

I think I've located the leak to the far right (passenger) side of the condenser. Using my die-detecting flashlight I see some faint residue in that area. One would think it would be more obvious, but I think rain being drawn into the grille is washing the oil and dye away. Now the debate is: On a 167k mile car, should I just replace the condenser/filter and recharge it, taking the chance that one day the compressor will fail and ruin it and everything else, or should I stay with the plan to replace both the compressor and condenser? When I turn the clutch by hand, it turns rather easily but it doesn't necessarily free-wheel. Wish I had something to compare to.

I think what I've decided to do is buy the Valeo compressor on Rockauto, even though it's got the MT pulley on it, then disassemble the clutch components on it, then replace the 5-inch pulley with the 4-3/8" one from the compressor that comes off our car. That way, I have the new clutch and coil from the Valeo one. I strongly suspect Valeo was/is the OEM compressor supplier to Ford/Mazda (it is a Mazda engine, ya know). As far as the condenser goes, I'm gonna buy the Motorcraft one since it says it has the filter/drier pre-installed.

The confusing listings are not Rockauto's fault; they're limited to what each brand gives them. However, I think I've figured out that the compressor itself (without the clutch/pulley) is the same, regardless of AT or MT. I happened to look at similar year Motorcraft compressor listings on RA, and they indicated that the clutch & pulley components are not included, so I think this one just fails to say they're not included. I also looked at TascaParts.com, and it shows that the compressor is the same but two separate options for the pulley. They also show that the compressor/clutch/pulleys are all discontinued, so it seems the dealership may not be an optional source. I will say that I put a new Spectra Premium (correction from GPD; hey, it was 9 yrs ago ) branded compressor in my 1994 Ford Ranger one time, along with replacing all the hoses and other components, except evap,(which I flushed), and had awesome results. I think some people often just simply replace the comp, and when it fails prematurely, they get on the forums and blame the brand.

My daughter has a 2009 SEL 2.3L AT (3FAHPU8Z99R169714) that needs an ac compressor. Car's got 165k miles on it. I'm looking on rockauto. There's only one Valeo listed, that I'd prefer to get for $245ish but it says it has a 128mm (5inch) pulley, which I think is only for a car with an MT. The Motorcraft one is almost $400 but doesn't say the pulley diameter or whether it's the AT or MT version. It seems there's a difference between the AT and MT car's compressors. One of the other brands, UAC, has two listings, each listing seems to state clearly what it's for. Another thing I think is odd is that there are more MT-version compressors available than there are AT-versions. Anybody have any insight on this? I do remember about 5 years ago putting a new serpentine belt on this car, and I fought for a few hours trying to get it to go on even after enlisting my daughter's help holding the tensioner in its bottomed out position. I had to basically roll it on, and I was sure that I had the correct size belt. Could it be that Ford put the wrong ac compresor having the 5" pulley on this car? That would explain the belt not fitting without rolling it on using the pulley (that's what I had to do to get it on the car. When I replace this compressor, I'm going to just cut it off and put a larger size by 2 mm that I've seen as an option.

Can the metal Water Outlet Connector Adapter from a 2007 or 2008 Mazda 6 2.3L be transplanted to a 2009 Ford Fusion 2.3L? See below for the basis behind my question. Even if I don't try to use an outlet from a Mazda 6, I wonder if the moly-coated stainless steel gasket in the attached picture can be used to replace the soft rubber gasket in the plastic outlet. According to rockauto.com, it is one of the options, but in the description it states "flat style". It's the only Motorcraft one offered on the web site, so I believe it will work. In fact, I think it may be an updated design, since I've seen other posts about their rubber gasket failing, not the plastic housing. Our 2009 Ford Fusion 2.3L with 150k miles has developed a leak from its Water Outlet Connector Adapter (no, not the thermostat housing). The WOCA, we’ll call it, is located above the AT on the driver side of the engine block near the top corner. I was anticipating its failure because it’s made of plastic and the one on my friend’s 2011 Fusion basically exploded (that's how he described it) a couple of months ago. After seeing the puddle under my car, I was thinking about where I was going to buy the part, and it dawned on me that my 2007 Mazda 6 2.3L w/ 205k miles has yet to have this issue. I went and popped open its hood and immediately see why… it’s not plastic, it’s obviously metal (probably aluminum). My local LKQ has a 2008 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3L that I might be able to vulture the WOCA from.

Hello! New member here, but we've had a 2009 Fusion SEL 2.3L AT in the family for a couple years now. I'm now babysitting it while my daughter is working in Japan for a few years. We've had the car since it had about 115k miles on it, and I have to say it's been a great car (now has 150k miles).