drolds1

Welcome to the FFF. First things first. The Lounge is intended for off-topic discussions only. Questions and comments about the Fusion should be posted in the aprropriate section of the Forum. This information is in the header for the Lounge. To wit: Your post has been moved to an appropriate section. Next, WRT to your issue: P2004, Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Stuck Open Bank 1, does not automatically mean the solenoid is bad. Like any trouble code, there is a diagnostic "tree" to follow to arrive at a diagnosis. There are several components involved here, including the PCM. Have you checked the wiring harness to see if the solenoid is getting voltage? How about checking the vacuum actuator lines for integrity and for the presence of vacuum? As you've found, throwing parts in response to a fault code isn't always the solution.

Welcome, Charles. Congratulations on your newly acquired Fusion and best wishes for improvement to your health. In time, I'm sure you'll come to appreciate all the advanced features your car has to offer.

See this thread, which I found by entering 'sunglasses holder' in the search bar above.

Good to know. Thanks for posting and welcome to the FFF.

See below. Do you have a CEL? If so, what's the code?

Well, good luck and welcome to the Forum anyway. I'm sorry that your introduction was due to an accident.

This. It's difficult to estimate collision repair costs just by looking at a car in person. Even less so with a picture on the Internet. It needs to be disassembled and examined by a pro, both on the ground and on a lift. You can't know for sure what's damaged under the sheetmetal. Just from the looks of it, I'd say the subframe is tweaked to the right. Is your A/C working? The condenser may have been damaged. Is yours an EB? The intercooler may be damaged as well. Any check engine lights on? Core support may be pushed back. In short, it needs to be professionally examined for an estimate. What happened anyway. Did you run under a large truck? Do you have collision insurance?

Presumably, the OP is referring to the emergency locking procedure to be employed in case the power door lucks malfunction. There's a hole in the back edge of each door into which a key blade is inserted and turned. A screwdriver might be used instead of the key blade.

Which engine? There was a recall for 2013–2016 Fusions with the 2.5L for shifter issues.

JB Weld is up there with duct tape. I once was given a professional orbital polisher that had been accidentally driven over. I repaired the broken case with JB Weld and got years more use out of it. I've read accounts of repairing cracked engine blocks with it.

From what I've read, you were lucky to get it at any price.

Nope. Click

The owners' guide for your car specifies BXT-67R as correct. That's the OE battery. BAGM-96R is a different battery, not an updated version. The former is a lead-acid battery, while the latter is an absorbed glass mat battery, as evidenced by the model number prefix of 'AGM.' See the Motorcraft battery chart:https://www.macheforum.com/site/attachments/motorcraft_battery_specification_chart-pdf.12361/ AFAIK, Ford only uses AGM batteries in cars that are equipped with idle stop/start. Note that they're rated at 500 CCA while the 67R is rated at 390 CCA. The hybrid does not use the 12V battery to start the car, so the higher CCA is not required. The AGM battery has a higher CCA rating to account for the additional demands placed on it in frequent restarting. That also accounts for the higher price. As you can see from the chart, the 2 batteries have differing group numbers, hence different dimensions. To make the 96R battery fit your car, some modifications to the holder would be necessary. IDK if that's doable. Perhaps some 1st-gen Hybrid owners will chime in, or you could ask on the Ford Fusion Hybrid Forum. I seem to recall some posts from years ago about this, but I'm not sure about that. Did you search out of curiosity, or do you need a new 12V battery? Have you ever replaced it? It's up to you if you want to go with the simple solution of OE battery or the additional expense and trouble making the AGM model fit.

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A simple Internet search reveals any number of sources for the bolt pattern. Here's one.

Welcome to the FFF, Brando. If you enter the 'P' codes into the Search bar above, you'll find archived threads related to these codes.

Welcome to the Forum. Yes, there is a well-known issue with Ford's I4 Ecoboost engines. It's not just head gasket failures. A design flaw results in coolant intrusion into the cylinders and subsequent engine failure. An entire long block replacement is necessary. Ford extended the warranty, but only on the 1.5L, not the 2.0. See the latest TSB from Ford. There's more information here if you go through the archives. There may be a class action lawsuit. Where did you buy the car from? If it's a Ford dealer, ask for the car's service history. If it's had an engine replacement, there should be stickers reflecting that in the engine compartment. It has nothing to do with how the car is driven.

The Plastic connector to the booster pulls out with some friendly persuasion. There's an o-ring sealing the connection. The vacuum source connector is a squeeze-to-release coupler. The part is relatively inexpensive and is a D-I-Y if one is even moderately handy. Here's how it's done on a 2017 1.5. The OP didn't specify which engine his car has.

This is fairly recent. IDK if there's anything there that'll help.

https://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=8157

If it worked on a 2019, they'd say so. The 2.0 EB was revised in 2017 with a twin-scroll turbo. So, essentially, it's a different engine. That's might be the reason it's not appropriate for a 2019. Furthermore, if you look at the reviews, it clearly states that it can't be used on 2017. Since that comment was posted in 2017, you can safely assume that this applies to 2017+. Last, but certainly not least, there is a tech support number for Steeda at the top of the ad. Why not call them and get technical advice? I hope you realize that all this does is make noise. It's not going to give you any more performance unless it allows more boost pressure before blow-off. It doesn't state that one way or the other, so you'd have to ask them. Keep that in mind if you still have your 5/60 powertrain warranty in effect.

Try Duplicolor for wheel paint.

See this thread.

Great news, and thanks for the update.