drolds1

Welcome, Matt.

The 2017 Fusions have a rotary gear selector. There's no conventional shifter with a thumb button.

Welcome to the FFF. In addition to this post, you've posted the same question in another section of the forum. Please don't create duplicate threads. This topic is now closed.

Yes. The water pump is a BIG job on these due to the fact that it's internal and driven by the timing chain. IIRC, the SM allows 14 hours of labor for this. It's best to remove the powertrain, but there are workarounds for doing it in the car. Here's a video demoing the replacement. In-car replacement. Obviously, this isn't a job for the inexperienced DIYer. Access to a lift is a huge help as well.

I can't say how the NGKs would work with a tune, but years of hanging around here has shown that some members have had issues with them. It's generally best to stick with Motorcraft plugs in Fusions.

Welcome to the FFF forum. Good luck with your FFH. You stated that you're from Seattle, however your region in your profile indicates "Greater Arabia" You might want to correct this.

Welcome to the FFF. In answer to your question, the idle stop/start feature was an option on the 2013 Ford Fusion with the 1.6L engine. I'd certainly go with official info from Ford before that of an independent company. They don't always have 100% accurate data.

I tend to agree with the others, but I'd try hooking up a jumper. If it cranks at normal speed, then you can be fairly confident that it's the battery and not the starter. How old is your battery and how many miles on the car? Does your car have idle stop/start?

The best way to trace an oil leak is to add a florescent dye to the oil, drive the car for a few days, then use a black light and special eyeglasses made for this purpose. If you don't want to invest in the equipment, any auto repair shop should be able to do it at nominal cost. Example

It's inside the climate control housing. This is a lot of work. Why do you need access? It's #2 pictured below. This is after a lot of disassembly. If you're going by 1st-gen Fusion sensor issues, there hasn't been the common failure of this part in 2nd-gen (2013+) Fusions. Do you have a diagnosis of whatever your problem is?

I'm fairly certain the OP isn't going to see your response, since (s)he hasn't been active since October 2018.

If you haven't attended to this yet, here's a thorough video of the rear ¼-glass being replaced on a Mk.3 Ford Mondeo in the U.K. It's essentially the same car as the North American Fusion. There may be some minor trim differences, but the procedure is basically the same. As you can see, it's replaced as an assembly, with the trim and glass being one piece. As noted by bbf2530, some disassembly is required. The glass isn't replaced from the outside as a separate piece.

Side note: I recently donated a car. Keep in mind that you can only take a deduction for the car if you itemize on your 1040. If you use the standard deduction, as many have since the tax code was overhauled in 2017, you can't take a deduction for the car.

The issue appears to be corrected.

I did as well, on Firefox, Chrome, and Edge.

I've had dashcams for years now. I always use an Add-a-Circuit fuse tap. Never had a problem. I know that over the years, members here have tapped into the mirror wires, but as noted above, not the best idea.

Go up to the "hamburger" menu icon at the top right and select mark site read and see if that clears it.

Presumably, wheel spacers. OP: Here's an article on wheel spacers and how to measure for sizing. You probably shouldn’t exceed 20 mm with stock suspension. Perhaps our resident suspension expert, Waldo, will weigh in.

Then Ford BMS has certainly been the source of plenty of discussion and speculation. Now, the guru of all things Ford, Brian Makluoco, has prepared a thorough tutorial on his YouTube FTM channel. Some good info here, as always.

No worries, bbf. I didn't take it that way, although it wasn't exactly tongue-in-cheek either. I just found to be quite a coincidence that the day after the OP mentioned a class action suit, the article mentioning one appeared on fordauthority.com, and it merited reporting here. But, as noted, it's not just Ford that are subjects of a CA suit. There are numerous other mfrs., as seen here. Like you, I don't think this is going anywhere either. As you say, filing a lawsuit and winning one are 2 different things. As an old professor of mine once said, "You can sue a ham sandwich." However, in the case of class action, it's more complicated than that. There are a number of procedural steps that are followed first and once a draft lawsuit is filed, then, and only then, a judge will decide if the suit can be certified as a class action. It's by no means a given. Some of us may remember when the analog cellular network shut down and owners of GM (and others) with the original version of OnStar lost that service. Some of those cars were analog only and couldn't be upgraded to digital service. Those owners were screwed. I think some people that complained got a coupon for $500 towards a new car. Big whoop! A class action suit was filed and was NOT certified. One of the things a judge will look at is precedent, which we have here. Plaintiffs were advised to file in their respective states. Even if a suit is certified and successful, what would the remedy be? There's no monetary loss here. Good luck to the plaintiff(s). It'll be interesting to see how this turns out.

Looks like you got your wish: https://fordauthority.com/2022/11/ford-3g-class-action-lawsuit-filed-over-obsolete-modems/

I'll second this. In fact, I was so pleased with the Motorcraft blades that I got a set for my other (non-Ford) car.

Welcome, NatAsmai

Welcome, hal9000. Hybrid owners will be happy to answer any questions you may have. In case you're not aware, there's a dedicated FFH forum here.