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drolds1

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Posts posted by drolds1

  1. The Lounge is for off-topic discussions, not for questions or discussion about the Fusion.  Per the header at the top of the forum;

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    This forum is for off general discussion only. Please post topics and questions in the appropriate forum(s).


    Therefore, your question has been moved to the appropriate area.

  2. The Welcome! section is intended for new members to introduce themselves, not for questions about the Fusion itself.  Per the header at the top:

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    Here's the place the introduce yourself, post photos of your Fusion, Milan, MKZ, Zephyr and say hello!

     

    In addition, you've also posted this question in another Forum section.  Please don't create duplicate threads for the same topic.

     

    This topic is now closed, as it's a duplicate post as well as in a non-related section.   

  3. When posting a question like this, it helps if you supply some details about your car.  For instance, which engine do you have?  This is an Internet guess but, due to defective engine blocks, Ford's I-4 EB engines have been known to develop coolant intrusion into cylinders 2&3, which gets burnt. There would be no obvious leaks in such a case, but a professional diagnosis is in order here.

     

    https://youtu.be/_8nQ1NZW_GI?feature=shared

  4. An Internet diagnosis is very difficult at best.  There could be various causes for this; a misfire, a fuel delivery problem, lockup torque converter malfunction, etc.  Were there any alerts, such as CEL or yellow wrench light?  Before throwing any more parts at it, I'd suggest you get a professional diagnosis.  At the very least, get it scanned for any codes at a Ford dealer or a shop you trust that has modern diagnostic equipment.

  5. Thanks for the update.  I meant to mention the updated driveshaft in my previous post but forgot.  At least it wasn't the PTU or rear diff. 

     

    Just for reference, $1800 CAD converts to $1335 USD as of today.  At your mileage, I'd still consider changing the PTU fluid if it's never been done.

  6. 19 hours ago, WKelley said:

    My best internet guess is the read differential is going out of it.  If that's not it, then the "transfer case" is likely 2nd.  3rd would be the actual transmission itself.

    Adding to this, have you ever changed the fluid in the PTU and/or rear differential?

     

    On thing confusing me: you state that is present on acceleration but occurs either in D or N.  How can you accelerate in Neutral?

  7. Does this remote start brand advertise that it can interface with the factory climate control?  If not, then you'll have to leave your HVAC system on when you shut the car off.  The best source of information in your case would be the manufacturer's tech support line instead of asking us here, as it's unlikely you'll find a member who's familiar with your particular system.

  8. Agreed.  As I found out years ago, what can appear to be just sheetmetal damage can hide a number of ills.  It takes less of a hit than you might think to tweak a subframe.

  9. Welcome to the FFF.  You posted this in a separate thread in this forum.  Please don't create duplicate threads for the same issue.  The other post has been removed.

     

    WRT your issue, if your mechanic can't determine what the problem is, I'd suggest finding another shop or a Ford dealer.  A vibration that violent shouldn't be that difficult for a competent shop to isolate.  What if it isn't the driveshaft, and you'd replaced it?  You will have wasted a lot of money. 

  10. 11 hours ago, Glenn mcgowen said:

    Is there any differences between the mirrors on a 2016 fusion and a 2016 mirror on a mondeo 2016 ie size because I've purchased 2 pairs of mirrors and they don't fit the fusion 1s seem to be longer by right o left and not so tall

    Welcome from the U.S., Glenn.  In answer to your question, yes, the EU and U.S. have different specs for outside rearview mirrors. To wit:

     

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    [S]tandard side mirrors are different in US and Europe. Europe uses convex or aspherical mirrors while US uses planar, which makes more true to size representation but with a way narrower FoV.

    This may account for the difference in size between the two.

  11. 11 hours ago, Roc said:

    Yes, it restarts immediately and check engine light turns off. I’ll take it again if it happens again and get a service ticket. Thanks

    You didn't mention a CEL previously.  Does the light come on before it stalls, or because it stalled, and it's coming on with the other warning lights because the engine is off and the ignition switch is in the ON position?  In the latter case, it will go off when the engine starts, under normal conditions.  If there's a legitimate CEL, the code should be in the ECU's memory and the dealer should be able to read it.

  12. 3 hours ago, Roc said:

    Idk if they did any pressure readings because I wasn’t given any paperwork since they couldn’t replicate the problem. The first time it happened I was making a left turn out of a parking lot, each time it’s happened I was accelerating at less than 5 mph. 

    Even if they can't replicate the problem, you should still get a service ticket indicating that and what tests, if any, that they ran. 

     

    Does it restart immediately?

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