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Motor Trend named the Fusion their Car of the Year in 2010: https://www.motortrend.com/news/2010-motor-trend-car-of-the-year-ford-fusion/ I bought my one-owner 2010 Sport in 2020 with just 30K on it and agree what a great vehicle it's been, save for the pesky backup speaker going out and the alternator failing prematurely at 60K. Other than that, my only other wish is for more power. Of course, the 3.5 is sufficient for in-town driving, but coming from a stable of other cars that included a Mustang GT, Ferrari 360 and Corvette, it doesn't satisfy me on the highway. I know a 2017+ Sport would be the way to go, but I just can't justify spending almost $20K for a car that's considerably heavier and only has 60 more horsepower.

There are several threads on here for that issue, as well as many informative videos on Youtube.

I don't have a definitive answer, but I've seen forum discussions stating it is between 300 lb-ft to 350 lb-ft torque. I, too, would like more power, but have resigned myself to the fact that the easiest way to do that is to simply trade in my 2010 Sport for a 2017 Sport.

At 3:20 mark you can hear the deputy say "We're over 120!" Sadly, it didn't end well when the Fusion attempted to take an exit ramp too fast.

Hello, yes, it's a real nightmare job and I speak from experience having just replaced the alternator. Here's a slightly condensed version of what's required: Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the cooling system. Loosen the exhaust flexible pipe clamp and disconnect the 2 exhaust hangers. Remove the 4 nuts, the exhaust flexible pipe and the Y-pipe as an assembly. Discard the nuts and the gasket. Remove the LH and RH catalytic converters. Refer to the Exhaust Manifold procedure for more information on catalytic converter removal. If equipped, remove the heat shield and disconnect the block heater electrical connector. Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container. Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container. Remove the engine front cover. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) assemblies Install the special tool onto the flats of the LH camshafts. Install the special tool onto the flats of the RH camshafts. Remove the 3 bolts and the RH VCT housing. Remove the 3 bolts and the LH VCT housing. Remove and discard the VCT housing seals. Remove the 2 bolts and the primary timing chain tensioner. Remove the primary timing chain tensioner arm. Remove the 2 bolts and the lower LH primary timing chain guide. Remove the primary timing chain. Remove the 2 bolts and the upper LH primary timing chain guide. Remove the RH primary timing chain guide lower bolt. Loosen the RH primary timing chain guide upper bolt. Rotate the guide and tighten the bolt. Remove the 8 bolts and the water pump. Thoroughly clean and inspect all mating surfaces.

Haha, yeah I'm almost inclined to keep it just to see what bizarre part breaks next. But despite your observations about 2013+ models, my wife's 2015 Santa Fe Turbo was bought new and has accumulated 150,000 miles with less issues then the Fusion.

I've been driving for 40 years and I've got to say that my 2010 Fusion Sport has [unfortunately] taken the crown of oddest problems I've ever experienced in a vehicle! First, it was the tiny speaker that is tied to my backup camera and blind-spot detection that literally drove me crazy with it's incessant beeping malfunction. Then, it was the alternator that went out at just 60K miles, a full 100K shy of every other alternator I've ever had to replace and by far the worst labor of them all (7 HOURS)!!! Now, this past weekend, on the hottest day of the year so far (it was reading 103 degrees) it suddenly decided to start blowing burning hot air out of the passenger vents while my driver side were ice cold!!! I might add that I was on a 2-hour trip to get my daughter moved into college so I couldn't just drive home and park it. Needless to say, that it picked this one day to do this was nearly as infuriating as the actual issue of the heater running on a scorching summer day. Granted, I'm no automotive engineer but I just don't understand how if the A/C compressor is running at full blast that it isn't cooling the other air as well? Regardless, some research after the incident turned up that it's most likely the Blend Door Actuator that has failed. Of course, like the other two problems, this is something that I've never had to deal with in any car before so I'm seriously wondering if I should keep the Fusion or trade it in before any other weird problems strike? On the plus side, the Motorcraft part is pretty cheap (~$55) and looks like I can do it myself in a few minutes so that's encouraging. Just curious, has this happened to anyone else here or is my car simply a magnet for these crazy problems?

Yeah, don't get your hopes up. My wife bought a brand new 2006 Freestyle and four years later the CVT imploded at 52,000 miles. We joined a class-action lawsuit because so many owners were affected and Ford would not warranty the repair. Long story short, Ford's high-priced lawyers squashed the lawsuit and people such as myself had to either cough up the $7000 for a new CVT or be stuck with a vehicle that was completely useless.

Spent about 7 hours this weekend replacing the alternator and it was a nightmare! I won't go into all the gory details, but suffice it to say if the water pump ever does go out I won't be fixing it— I'll simply sell the car at a loss rather than go through that expense and frustration again. On the plus side, car is running great now but I still can't believe the alternator failed at 65K miles!

I'm thinking it's tire pressure.

As far as I'm concerned, the 2017-2019 Fusion Sport is the only one deserving of the "EcoBeast" badge. 400hp with a tune and AWD is a pretty potent combination.

Rock Auto has Motorcraft TPMS sensors for $47 apiece.

Alternator arrived but my plans to replace the serpentine belts hit a snag. Dealer does not have the water pump belt in stock and said there is such a severe shortage that there are currently only two in the entire nation! Given that, it looks like I'll be going aftermarket on the belts but it might be for the best. Stealership wanted $110 but Autozone has the Continental brand for $40.

Motorcraft alternator is arriving on Wednesday. It was $200 cheaper through Rock Auto than the local Ford stealership. I also plan to swap the accessory belt since it's original also. Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly!

Had the battery tested and it tested good. I'm now in the process of having the alternator tested and am afraid it will need replacing.