FXT

tbh the steering racks in these cars are shit! ive read many posts about the rack failing after things like wheel alignments, work like you have done or other work, the list seems to be endless and figuring why it happened is a stab in the dark. I replaced the lower control arms on my 2014 and all was fine but i have also had a failed steering rack too (unrelated I believe) My suggestion would be to get forscan connected and try a PSCM reset and/or self test. Maybe the issue will resolve??? Failing that and any other tests you could try I bought a used rack on ebay from a car that had only rear damage. You can dummy connect that rack under your car and test to see 1. if it works 2. that the codes rectify. Although a mate that had a lift i could use didnt charge me I fixed mine for $160 Goodluck

considering you have been dealing with the passenger side with the symptoms being exaggerated when turning to the right I would actually look at drivers side rear instead. see when the car is turning to the right all the weight transfers to the left side of the vehicle causing, say, more load on the bearing. Straight moderate and turning left the weight load is less. If the sound is drowning out the faster you go, is most probably because the frequency of the "knocks" are higher among other sounds being added to combine in it becoming less noticeable. In my experience sounds from failed bearings travel far and wide through components and framework. I would be looking to the other side.

Fearing backlash from people that think different I will post this anyway. It may temporarily fix your issue until the part arrives then you can remove it to have the dealer replace the warrantied part. P0420 can be rectified by placing a spacer known as a fouler in between the sensor and where it mounts. See: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO91FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The sensor relays a signal to the computer, if it above or below threshold it triggers the code. This is based on the reading it gets before and after the CC. It pulls the sensor away from the "issue" giving a normal reading again. Of course you would need to get one that is the right thread type for your vehicle. Again, this should only be temporary and my apologies to any that deem this to be an irreprehensible offense.

ok

suppose if it was me, id check the power supply to the motor via the plug and check the motor resistance vs the others motors with a DMM. Other than that its most probably more effective to go to some local wreckers and try and find a seat with the same trim and switch it out completely.

they informed you incorrectly. You can do the alteration in the comfort of your own driveway/garage. whether this is the correct fix or not I cant say but other than the expense of the adapter and most people have a pc/laptop, its free (unless you have used the free trial full version of forscan already)

i dont know if this is correct or not but this workshop manual says its for fusion and fiesta. Anyhow have a look and see if it looks the same and makes sense: https://cardiagn.com/2005-08-ford-fiesta-st-body-system/ See page 501-14-24

You dont specify your Region but if youre in the US, buy a drivers side seat from Australia?

I see it as an option in the ForScan spread sheet: IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) looks like has a programmable module where the large X at position 4 needs to be changed to a 1. You said passenger side so i doubt the panel was replaced. Maybe they did some sort of reset or having the battery disconnected reset the module to default? Why you had it before could only be a mystery but if you have an HS/MS-CAN OBD2 adapter and pc, forscan trial is free and you could change the as-built data for that module to display it again.

i got mine from here if it helps https://cardiagn.com/ford/ford-fusion/

it is either the type of mp3 format or could be something with the ID3 tags that the vehicle software is rejecting. ID3 is the metadata that the file includes that gives a device the information such as Artist, Track, Title etc I would suggest looking at a file on your pc that shows up in the list and works in your car and look at the file type specifics or the metadata. If you dont have much knowledge take a file convert it and try it on your USB. Try different things until you get one to show then duplicate that with all the other songs. A good freeware ID3 program is https://www.mp3tag.de/en/

i would invest in an OBD plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S7W14X9/ get a laptop and Forscan to pull the codes that in the computer then you can go from there researching the issue

Make sure the shocks top nut is tight! The clunking sound is common and tightening that nut generally rectifies the issue. Test to see if its even the slightest bit loose while the car is on the ground (Jacking it up transfers the weight and the issue goes away) It can be done in the car if you have one of the sockets that allows passthrough in the center and if you replaced with aftermarket shocks the nut is sometimes not as wide as the OEM so it can be shimmed with a couple washers so it protrudes more for better access. i dont modify my cars anymore, not worth it so cant help you there

There is no upper control arm. You remove the lower 2 bolts and remove the upper bush to remove the shock. Then you can remove the shock nut from the bush. Because you are not replacing any of the suspension assembly it shouldn't require an alignment but check your tires for unusual wear over the next few drives.

Dont know if there is anything you would need to do to enable a "dolly towing mode" but i assume the system has been tripped with maybe a difference of something like wheel speed sensing from the motion of rear wheels to non-motion of front wheels. Personally I would hook up ForScan and see what the DTC codes are. you can more than likely just clear them and be on your way.