idanny76

I figured how to check the firmware version on the Sync Gen 1. I am on the current 4.6 version. Press the PHONE button. The screen may read "No Phone Connected." Press the System Settings tab on your vehicle's SYNC screen. Press Advanced Press System Info Steps below are for Master Factory Reset, but it takes you to the Advance Settings for Sync https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/troubleshooting/how-do-i-perform-a-sync-masterfactory-reset/

I figured how to check the firmware version on the Sync Gen 1. I am on the current 4.6 version. Press the PHONE button. The screen may read "No Phone Connected." Press the System Settings tab on your vehicle's SYNC screen. Press Advanced Press System Info Steps below are for Master Factory Reset, but it takes you to the Advance Settings for Sync https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/troubleshooting/how-do-i-perform-a-sync-masterfactory-reset/

I figured how to check the firmware version on the Sync Gen 1. I am on the current 4.6 version. Press the PHONE button. The screen may read "No Phone Connected." Press the System Settings tab on your vehicle's SYNC screen. Press Advanced Press System Info Steps below are for Master Factory Reset, but it takes you to the Advance Settings for Sync https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/troubleshooting/how-do-i-perform-a-sync-masterfactory-reset/

Does anyone know if the SYNC SW: B5U72006 is the v.4.6? Anyone have that SW version who is on the 4.6? I did an update a while back, but did not upload the log file to Ford website. Since I did not upload it, I am not sure which version I have right now..... Since the software version is not labeled 4.6 but some weird serial.

I was just checking the Ford website and there a SYNC update available version 4.6 for my 2012 Ford Fusion SEL, but the link for download is missing. It says contact the dealership. I have the larger screen. The information below is from the Ford Website and the picture is the current SYNC on the vehicle. I did an update when I bought the car in 2021, but I don't think I upload the update log file to ford to acknowledge the update. I just recently updated my 2016 Ford Explorer that I recently bought and I did upload the log file. From the picture below I cannot tell what SW it is. I think I might be on the current software, but not sure B5U72006 is v4.6 or V4.0.2. If anyone has the 4.6 file that I can try and see if it will update or let me know if the SW:B5U72006 is the v.4.6 SYNC GenerationSYNC 1 SYNC Current Version4.0.2 SYNC Updates Update Available4.6

Can you upload both the 4.4 and the 4.6?

I have the larger screen. I have the 2012 Ford Fusion SEL version. It has the large screen with navigation. The information below is from the Ford Website. I have to verify the actual version from the car itself. I did an update when I bought the car in 2021, but I don't think I upload the update log file to ford to acknowledge the update. I jusr recently did to a 2016 Ford Explorer I recently bought and did upload the log file. From the picture below I cannot tell what SW it is. SYNC GenerationSYNC 1 SYNC Current Version4.0.2 SYNC Updates Update Available4.6

I was just checking the Ford website and also have the 4.6 for my 2012 Ford Fusion, but I don't see a link. It says contact the dealership. Did you find the update file?

You should sell those parts in eBay. The resistor is selling for $100+ and the pigtail for $80+. I had to replace the blower motor also for chirping two years ago with another motorcraft blower motor.... To then now be dealing with what seems to be the blower motor pulling too much current and melting the connector plastic. I am hesitant in paying premium prices for motorcraft parts and get the same results as aftermarket. I would buy motorcraft parts only if it was for sensitive electrical components. Sell those parts on eBay and get some extra cash back or even better send it to me ?.

Looking at the connector... The only pin burnt is the power wire that goes to the motor. Would it be correct to assume that it's not the resistor, but the blower motor pulling too much current?

I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL 2.5L. Today I ran the car A/C while waiting for my wife and when I went inside the car.... it smelled like burnt plastic. I thought the smell was coming from the engine, but it was not. When I got back in the car.... the blower motor was off and would not come back on. I had to take my other car for the errands and when I got back the blower was working again. I decided to check the both the blower and the resistor connector..... and the resistor had melted plastic on one of the tips. Also, the connector was warm. I read other post here in regards to the same issue and some say they replaced the resistor, but it kept going bad. I have also read that the blower motor could be bad and is pulling a lot on current. I really would hate to need to buy a new motor, resistor and connector to then have the same issue happen again. Don't want to just replace the resistor and connector and then the blower burn the connector again. I just watched a YouTube video and it seems that the resistor connector is not well made. According to the mechanic, the connector doesn't handle the amount of current running trough it very well. I read that the replacement resistor pig tail from the ford dealership was way better quality and the wiring thicker. It seems they know it was an issue and the replacement comes with a thicker wire and better plastic on the connector. Another person said "I would advise changing all three parts - The problem is the blower motor uses brass bushings. they wear out and cause the motor to pull more amps, that leads to burning out the wires between the motor and the resistor, which in turn blows the resistor. Save yourself the grief and get all three done at the same time. I replaced them separately trying to avoid splicing the wires but in the end I blew two resistors before I stopped resisting....change all three at once." I would really hate to have to change all three parts. Specially the cost for motorcraft parts and not sure after markets would be any better. The dilema of what to do. Amazon has an upgraded version of the pigtail made with thicker copper wire. I was thinking of getting all these three parts.... link below. What do you guys think? Thank you in advanced to anyone for helping me out. https://a.co/d/7E4sSOB https://a.co/d/3aCAg0j https://a.co/d/6tgynx2

Problem solved. I needed new tires in the near future, but Sam's Club had a sale on tires with free installation. I went ahead and replaced the tires.... The sound was still there but less. My wife had mentioned to me that she had hit a curb making a turn and scraped the wheel and said it was loud. I had read online that hitting a curb or a driving over many pot holes on the road could damage the wheel bearings. The reason I did not think it was that incident... it was because that rear wheel was silent when I did the spin test and it had no play. Days later the sound became more pronounced and I could hear it coming from the rear tire where my wife had hit the curb. I decided to take a chance and ordered two Timken rear wheel bearing, which came with the hub as one unit. It was very easy to replace following a YouTube video. When I removed the wheel hub assembly.... the inner part of the wheel bearing was stuck to the Axel. My guess was that the impact on the curb damaged and separated the wheel bearing. I was able to remove the other half and replace the other side too. Noise is gone and now its a quiet ride. The reason why the damaged wheel bearing was not making an audible noise when I tested it...... it was because it did not have the full weight of the vehicle and it was also louder at higher speeds. Conclusion, sometimes bad wheel bearings may not have play or make a sound..... which can make it difficult to diagnose. The weight of the vehicle will make the sound louder and may be the only way to narrow the side that has a bad bearing.

Automatic and sound is all the time wether pressing or not the gas or break. Here is a video I just took. It's not a super loud sound, but it's there. My brother had really bad bearing and the sound was horrible. You may have to watch it on a PC and crank the volume to hear it. I turned the A/C off to remove any extra engine sounds. Sounds are not loud enough for me to pinpoint it. I have spinned the tires while jacked up, but the front tires spin together and its hard to spin it fast to hear a sound. Like I said.... The driver side did make a clicking sound and I assumed it was the traction control.... It just didn't seem like wheel bearing sounds.

I was hearing a humming noise, but its not too loud. I have replaced wheel bearing before myself and most of the time the noise is obvious where is coming from. I checked the wheels for play or grinding noise and could not pinpoint. All four wheels have no play and only the drivers side wheel made a small noise when I spin it, but it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing. I bought this car in February of this year and it had 126,000 miles on it. I have never had a vehicle with traction control and I wasn't sure if that was the reason for the sound. The sound just started about a month or 2 ago and since the rear tires were worn and not fully round, I went ahead and replaced all 4 tires. The sound is not so bad now, but it still there. I guess it was a combination of the tires and possible worn bearings. The sound becomes audible or more pronounced at around 35mph and gets louder as I go faster. It sounds like a wheel bearing going out..... I just can't figure which ones. Anyone here have a similar experience? I have dealt with wheel bearing and you can definitely tell where the noise is coming from. I am afraid this might be multiple bearings both front and rear. Any advice would be greatly welcome. Also, I had to remove the dash to replace the evap temp sensor and the steering wheel is a little off, but the alignment is good. I disconnecting the steering wheel from the power steering and tired to adjust it, but I can't get it centered. I can't remember if it was off center when I bought it or if it went off center when I loosened the dashboard. 2012 Ford Fusion SEL FWD 4 Cylinder

I have a similar situation. I have a humming sound, but I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I check all the wheels and could not find any play. It doesn't become loud enough until it goes above 35 mph. Which wheel bearing was the one making the noise? and Did you ever get it replaced? You may not have gotten a reply, because you posted to the Maintenance part of the forum and not the Engine/Powertrain section.