West

A follow up, car is working perfectly still, the heated seats and defrost both are also working perfect. That one damaged violet and white stripe wire caused all failures in this car. It is tiny, maybe 22 gauge but what a headache it caused.

I followed up in another thread on this forum, I think I found and fixed my car. 2015 Ford Fusion SE 2.0L Turbo, Center Console going dead, No Radio, No AC, No heated seats, no door locks, no power windows. These items have been coming and going for a few years now. I finally found one wire, a violet with a white stripe small wire under my carpet in front of the driver seat along the door jamb. This one wire is in a bundle of maybe 50 other wires. As I pulled up the carpet and Carpet pad for access to this area I spotted a small amount of green dust in one area on the floor board under the wires. Lifting the wire bundle carefully up I inspected the wire harness. This is hard because of the number of wires in this harness but I finally found one violet and white stripe wire that had the green dust on it, there was a small lump of green dust in one spot. When I wiped the green dust off I found the wire had a small damaged area and the copper wire inside had corroded away. I cut away the corroded ends of the wire and spliced in a new section of wire. This Violet wire with white stripe goes into a factory splice about 2 inches away from where I repaired it. After the factory splice this wire becomes two white wires, one may have a stripe but I did not peel back the tape to verify. After this repair the entire car seems to be working perfectly now. I did find my driver side puddle lamp in the rear view mirror was also not working and fixed that at the very same time. One of these repairs seems to have fixed a very long running repair. Hope this helps.

Some Progress to report on my 2015 Ford Fusion SE. Searching for the reason the Center Console keeps going dead, killing my AC, Radio, Window controls, Door Locks, and more. I was searching under the carpet and pad, in front of the driver seat along the left side body of the car. In a wire harness that must have 50 wires in it, taped loose from the factory I noticed some green dust on the floorboard? Close inspection with a magnifier and bright lights I see this is electrical dust? Carefully going through the 50 wires in this bundle I found one Purple wire with a white stripe this seems to be the source of my green dust? If you blow up the photos you can see the spot I found and again, this is a small wire and the problem is very small, hard to spot. At the center of the green dust in the wire bundle I found the problem wire violet with white stripe was cut or split right at this point. Given it made connection sometimes and worked but not all the time I think it sometimes touched and connected and then later did not. This violet/white wire becomes 2 white wires about 2 inches from this failure point. I soldered in a short piece of wire to make this repair so the broken wire is now repaired. Since I have owned this car my Scan Tool has told me the Rear View Camera is not communicating??? The Camera seems to work perfectly every time I use reverse so I was not too worried about this message from the scan tool. Also Ford has a memo out telling the techs that they can ignore this rear view camera code and it will cause zero issues? So the Camera communications is fixed, works every time now. The car has not acted up again, I think it may be fixed. Now to fix what is left, this car was put in another shop for several days and then it spent 3 or 4 days in the Ford Dealer. One of these shops messed up the Heated Seats and Rear window defogger. I have them coming on now but not till the car has been run for a few minutes? Not sure why the delay? Scan tool says the Push Buttons on the FCIM are being disabled because one is stuck. I have tried two FCIM's with the same result so this issue is somewhere else. I still need this fixed if you have any ideas. Thanks PS: using my scan tool, Oscilloscope, Multi meter, Test light and two wire diagrams I have been looking for about 3 weeks now to find this problem. It has plagued others for a long time also. Makes me wonder if this wire harness was pinched in some way at the factory causing this and several cars had the same issue. The black strap in the photo was used to hold the wire harness up for inspection, it is not tight it is just holding it in position, I hooked it to the brake pedal to anchor it. This photo is not clear but I saw about a 3/4" circle of green dust under the wire harness on the floor in this location. When in place the wire look lays right on the floor on the metal. It only has a little electrical tape around the wire loom but it is under the carpet and carpet pad and against the side of the car where it can't be stepped on. The Pictures make it hard to see but on the floor here you see a little white area, in sunlight it showed as green dust which was electrical dust. I am using my hook tool to lift the Violet and white stripe wire away from the harness. The green glob is where the wire failed. I put a splice in there and covered it with shrink wrap. It fixed issues in my car. After wiping off the green electrical dust this hole in the violet/white wire was there. Note no copper wire in this spot the wire was corroded away in this spot. I think it only functioned when the wires were bent just right and connected. When the wires are in the proper place these lay right on the floor board. The strap seen is pulling them up gently so I could view and repair the harness.

Late follow up. I thought this was fixed, after 7 months I actually sold this car with only 26,000 miles on it. I have a 2012 Mercedes E350 also and decided I did not need both cars and I prefer to drive the E350. Both are nice cars this was just a personal choice on which to sell. Update, so no issue for 7 months, I sold the car, new buyer calls after 2 months and the problem came back on them. They put it in a shop for sevral days, shop called and said they did not have time to fix it and gave it back no charge. They took it to Ford, Ford had it a few days and called back to say they don't have time to fix it, No charge. Now the car not only has the problem of the center console going out, shutting down the AC, Radio, Windows and Door locks. Now new issue, Driver seat will not adjust back, will go forward but not back? Heated seat buttons are dead, Rear Window defrost is dead? One of the shops did this damage. Neither claims responsibility. The buyer of this car was most upset. I bought it back from him. Now with 29,000 miles on a 2015 Fusion SE 2.0L Turbo. I have spent the last 2 weeks tracing, replacing and checking everything. The seat was an easy fix, so it adjusts again now. I have the ability to do electrical work but I hate it so try to avoid this type work. I have a good bi directional scan tool to read the computer, I have the Ford Forscan system, I have an oscilloscope to watch the CAN BUS wires as they work and read the signals as it runs looking for the odd issue. I have traced the problem down but not identified the actual cause. The Fusion has 4 Can Bus wire systems. Each system has a + and - wire. Each system twists these can bus wires together like a braid full length. The braid is supposed to reduce electrical interference. If you see braided wires you know they are communication wires. The sytems are. HS1, HS2, HS3 and MS Can. After testing all 4 systems I know that the only system that can affect Every single one of the failure issues is the HS1 which is the same system you can tap into at your OBD 2 Port Pin 6 and 14. Pin 6 is the one that will cause everything if grounded. AC out, Radio Dead, Center console dead, Windows don't work, door locks don't work. All affected by HS1 or Pin 6 at the OBD2 Port. DLC, Data Link Connector. Testing the other Can Bus wires some would shut down some of the systems but only the HS1 can shut down everything when grounded. Knowing this the HS1 is connected to the PCM, main car computer, BCM, the body control module, APIM, Accessory Protocol Interface Module, The DLC or OBD2 port and splices at Splice 17 left side of dash by the BCM and splice 124. Anytime the failure happens the AC shuts off along with all other issues. Any time it comes back on the car chimes announce the system is waking up again. Touch ground to Pin 6 and you create the issue each and every time. There is about a 10 second delay from touching Pin 6 at the OBD2 Port to ground and when everything shuts off. When the console goes dead, if you driver side windows still work your problem is not on the HS1 Can Bus network. Only the HS1 kills the windows also when grounded. The ground can be in any of the Modules or the PCM, it can be in any of the HS1 Can Bus wires. It can be in any of the splices which are all wrapped inside the wire harness. I don't pretend to be an electrical guy but watching the scope while testing the wires and modules allows you to see change when it happens tracing these issues. Some modules are not expensive, better to just replace and test rather than waste time testing some. Ford Forscan shows my modules working properly but does show communication issues on some others. I write this for therapy and to help guide the next poor soul chasing this stuff. Since so many things function off of the can bus network any of them can trigger the shut down. FYI: I did discover the Puddle lamp in my driver mirror was dead. Reading on the F150 forums they claim even this can cause the AC shut down? Not sure if that is true but I replaced the light. For now I am focused on trying to fix the Heated Seats and Rear Window defrost ( thanks to quality work by the shops) If I find smoking gun I will report back. This is an extra car so I am able to leave it down while fixing it. This would be impossible if you needed it for daily transportation. Another poster claims you can get the AC and center console working again by taking your Key Fob, Click Unlock 2 times, click Lock 2 times, Now hold Lock for 10 seconds. They claim this resets it and you can driver normal with AC. I have not tested to see if this works but worth a try. Anyone know how to fix the Heated seats and Rear Window defrost? The dash buttons are dead, no lights come on when pressed. Odd, My Scan Tool can turn on the heated seats and they heat up so the funtion seems to be fine the command on is missing. Thanks Mark

For those with this issue, one person posted on Youtube that they can fix it with a Key Fob. Press Unlock 2 times, Press Lock 2 times. Press lock and hold for a few seconds? Others claim this will fix the issue of a dead center console, dead windows and door locks. I hope it works for others, 30 second fix is worth a try.

Should have noted, since my problem can come and go, 7 months without a problem and then it comes back? Very strange, I am not sure if a module fails when it gets hot or a wire happens to ground in certain conditions. Odd thing is when it is dead, entire console shut off not working I can re set the system and it will work fine till it fails again? Could be 10 minutes or 5 months. Hard to track down., Scan tool will not clear this issue, it does show multiple systems are not communicating which indicates the Can Bus has been lost or shorted out. If a wire is shorted why would it work again after I reset by disconnecting the battery, unplugging the BCM or unbolting the grounds under the driver seat. Any of these 3 will fix the system till it does this again. I keep hoping it gets worse so I can find it but so far that has not happened. I have disconnected and cleaned every ground I can find. The only one I have not cleaned is the one in the center of the dashboard. The entire center console has to be removed to reach that one. I do not think this is a bad ground situation, I think it is a can bus wire shorted or a module failing. Any tricks I should know to figure this out? Thanks West

I am pretty well equipped for a shade tree mechanic, I have an Oscilloscope, Fluke multi meter, Launch X431V+ bi directional scan tool, FORSCAN, 2 different wire diagrams, and they do differ by the way. I have done the disconnect module testing, unfortunately I have yet to find any real issues. I do see where I am not the first to go into many of the connectors and wire harnesses. Either the shop or the Ford Dealer went in first. One of them messed up and caused the Heated seats and rear window defogger to fry. Neither work at this point. I did fix the driver seat that would not adjust. I had ot solder the connectors on the adjusting control but that feature is fixed. Nothing has made the rear window defog work. I do know what can bus is failing or grounding now I just need to find out where. I have had both front seats out and the carpet up, had the entire trunk apart, the dash is currently still apart. Had parts of the engine compartment apart to reach the ABS and several other connectors. Someone was into those before me also, not all were put back perfectly. Both the local auto shop and the Ford Dealer did not charge for the work done and gave no receipt., I know they fried the heated seats but I can’t prove it so no recourse, I just need to fix it., It is a very nice car but I need to get it back to perfect. Thanks for the ideas. This is more for therapy for me. Trying to find the cause. My can bus system so far has read perfectly all the time, 2.5-3.6V on the can + and 1.5 - 2.6 on the low side. Can signal on the oscilloscope shows a nice square pattern as it should.

I have a 2015 Ford Fusion SE 2.0L Turbo, only 29,000 miles on it. I have had this intermittent failure just like you for a few years now, I think it first showed up at 16,000 miles. So far, I have replaced the DLC, OBD2 port, the Radio, the center console face with all the controls. I thought it was fixed after cleaning all the connections at the BCM, I even tried replacing the BCM. My only trouble picked up on my scan tool is “Failure to communicate with the Rear View Camera”. Camera works fine but the lane lines that show where you are going as you back up do not turn, they always show straight lines, never turn with the steering wheel. I sold the car after it had not acted up in 7 months. The problem came back with the new owner. He put it in a shop. They told him to come get it they could not fix it. He put it in Ford, they kept it a few days and called and said they can’t fix it, out of warranty of course. Now one of these two shops messed up a few items on this car. Heated Seats are now dead, Rear Window Defog is now dead, Driver seat would power forward but not back. The new owner called and asked me to buy it back. I felt guilty and I did buy it back, now I need to fix it. I have bought a Mercedes to replace this car before I sold the Fusion so I have a car to drive and time to fix this car but I need to find the problem to fix it. I fixed the Driver seat myself. It now works fine, I have not found a way to fix the heated seats or the rear window defogger, even with the new Radio and center console faceplate and module these items do not ever work although I can turn on the heated seats with my scan tool so the system still works but something was fried by the shops. I have yet to find the exact cause of the center console problem. I have found the center console failure problem is caused by the VDB - 04 +(vehicle Data Bus HS1 Wire +) wire shorting to ground. I can duplicate the problem any time I wish by grounding the DLC connector #6. Touch #6 to ground and the Center console and other items go dead just like other owners report. Remove my ground it it comes right back to life. I just have yet to find where it is being shorted to ground, OK, it may also be shorting to the VDB - wire as this also causes all the symptoms. VDB-04 is the Pin 6 wire at the DLC or Data Link Connector/OBD 2 port under the dash. This is also called the HS-1 + high speed communications wire or CAN Bus wire HS1 +. There is also a HS2 system that does not cause the problems if grounded like the HS-1 can do. I believe there is also an HS3 system but this problem seems to reside on HS-1 or VDB-04. I am in process of testing the HS 1 + VDB 04 wires from the PCM to each and every splice and connector or module the wires go to. This is very time consuming, seats have to come out, dash gets taken apart, module in trunk and wires they’re checked. There are many splices where the wire might be shorted so lots and lots to check. We are not alone, many Ford owners have this issue. Find where the Can Bus wire is getting grounded and the car should be reliable again. Should be a FORD RECALLMaybe . This is a very dangerous failure. It seems to go out when it is 100* outside, when it goes out you have no A/C, can’t roll down a window down to get cool air. Door locks don’t work either. This is a Safety issue. FORD SHOULD STEP UP and fix these cars. BTW: My scan tool is a good one, I have 2 way communication with it, I have purchased and used FORSCAN, nice program but still no solutions. I have a Oscilloscope, it has let me see exactly what the wires should be doing and shows the odd behavior when the wire is grounded but does not show where it is happening. It could be one module randomly shorting out? Wha knows but a solution has to be found. Any guidance would be appreciated. I will report back if I find an issue.

MIne started acting up again and like you Brent and Chris it seems to happen when it is very hot out although it did happen one time to me first thing in the morning when it was less than 80* outsde. My most recent update: I removed the BCM it is up under the dash left side of the steering wheel. I cleaned all the connectors and plug ins. It has only been 2 weeks but in 100* heat it has not failed again yet. I bought an extra BCM from the wrecking yard, only $75, worth it for a test. Unfortunately everything in my dash worked fine but that dang replacement BCM would not program to my keys so the car would not start. The used BCM had corrosion in the exact same places as my BCM did on removal. Makes me wonder if somehow moisture gets into the connections. I used some dielectric grease on those connections when I installed it again. The used BCM came back out and my BCM went in and so far no failures have taken place but I do not trust it at all yet. I also replaced the OBD2 connector and module which made no difference. I did not find any wires that failed so far. One constant when I scan this car. It always comes back and says "Failure to communicate with your Rear View Camera, I forget the codes". Can look them up if needed. The camera works every time I put the car in reverse. What does not work are the lines that show which direction your steering wheel is turning. I don't know if this feature ever worked on this car but it does not work now. It shows the rear view, it shows the lines indicating straight back but the lines are fixed they don't move when you turn the steering wheel. You guys know what it should be doing? Mine also has the sunroof but I never use it for any reason, I should have thought of using it when Temps went over 120* inside that car with no AC. Mark

Received and installed the new Data Link Module, no joy, exact same issues still there. I have searched and not found an electrical schematic for the 2015 Ford Fusion. I found a couple companies that claim to sell it for $60-69 which would be fine but the reviews said they don't actually give you what you think you are buying so I did not go there. I found a factory wire schematic book on Ebay for this car brand new for under $40. Need to wait a week for arrival. That should let me trace the wires to find the failure. Thanks Mark

One more update, the problem came back and this time would not reset. I pulled my bubba switch for the ground wire back out and set the wiring back to factory stock. So, no AC, No Window control, No Door locks, No Radio plus a few more items all dead and have not come back. Of course it is 104* again when it acts up. I did some reading and as Checks mentioned the OBD2 port might be connected to my problem. This port is actually a module. Data Link Module or Smart Data Link Module is how I have seen it referred to. Checks had a wire issue feeding that Data link and they fixed his car by replacing a wire. I don't know yet what my exact issue is but at least it finally has totally shut down so I am forced to find the problem. I went and ordered a new Data Link Module, this is part of the OBD2 connection. I am replacing the Module because to me a wire issue is usually a firm failure where a module failure can come and go? My thinking on this one. The new module won't come in for 5 days or so so I will wait and hope that solves the issue. If the problem is solved I think I should go back and edit all the previous posts to avoid sending future owners on a goose chase. Reading on the Ford Truck Forum many owners had this same issue and it was connected to the Data Link Module, this module looks for feedback from several of the car systems and if it does not see what it needs to see it just shuts them all down. On the Ford F150 forum the truck has a module in the taillights, if moisture gets in the tail lights the F150 shuts down the same circuits as my car. Not sure who thought this type connectivity in the car was a good idea but I think they should get back to thinking systems should work at all times even if a tail light fails!

I spoke with Checks and my problem; same exact symptoms came back again. This time unclipping and re attaching the harness wires at the under dash fuse panel would not Light the car back up again. I traced all the OBD2 wires with no luck. Finally I removed the Driver seat for about the 6th time now and as soon as I disconnected the ground wires found under the front of the seat under the carpet the system fired right back up. Instantly with no hesitation. Not sure if this resets the problem module or how it lights it up again but when you want AC to work it is nice to know what fixes this. OK, now, I got out my BUBBA mask, I installed a switch on the ground wires that I found directly affected this issue. There are multiple ground wires that all ground in the same place, held by 2 8mm bolts. One of these wire connections has about 6 or 8 wires in that ground, it made no affect. The other bolt held 2 wires, I think one was black and the other black and white stripe. These two wires would disconnect or reconnect my Problem. There is another group of wires in one mount hold down, I think that one had 4 or more wires and it did nothing to help my case. It was the two wires that are able to get my system working proper again if removed and re connected. To do this I have to remove the driver seat from the 4 bolts holding it down and tip it back to gain access. OK, now for the Bubba device, I installed a switch between the 2 wires that are able to fix my issue and the ground bolt. If I flip the switch off and then on my car is restored to full function till it happens again. At least I don't have to remove the seat any more to make the AC work. I know it is a Bubba repair but I have AC! I figure it might get worse and maybe at that point the failure point will become known.

Is yours now fixed????

Well Checks I am back, my Fusion acted up again today, we had 103* heat of course, never happens when it is cold. Unique this time, I pulled all the plugs out of the interior fuse box and no joy. These are the same ones I pulled prior and the car lit back up. This time nothing. I will dig into this again. I really thought it was done but it is back. Dang No AC, No Radio, No window or door lock control from inside. Door locks work with the remote. Checking my scan tool it clearly lists all the functions not working and reports unable to connect with the device, window, heated seats, AC, Radio, basically the entire center console is dead. Maybe I blew a fuse disconnecting the harness wires from the fuse box.

Let me know if playing with that connector fixes your car. Good Luck